点评:We spent a week on the southern side of the lake, followed by another week on the northern side.
The lake is always there, either in direct view; out of the corner of your eye; or as a flash of blue when high up in the mountains. The water is pristine, bluer than blue, and ringed by snowcapped mountains. It is a lovely, lovely sight to behold, and because there are no boats and no tidal wave action, very serene.
Just a heads up. No one warned us that the lake is sacred. Wearing beach shoes in the water is taboo, as is, erm, any discussion of relieving yourself in the water. I overheard one such conversation and was grateful no locals also overheard it. There might have been lynchings.
There is a protocol of respectful cleanliness when visiting the lake.
I like that. I love the whole Kyrzyg “take care of nature” lifestyle. No litter here!
People on the southern side are very worried about encroaching development, and tbh a bit scandalized about the “overdeveloped” northern side. By western standards , however, it’s not overdeveloped there at all, although there’s some eyebrow raising “Russian” (I’m told) resorts to be seen.
If you visit Kyrgyzstan, you cannot miss Lake Issy Kul.
Also, on your return to Bishkek,
Suggest visiting Spar gas station (yes, you heard that right) for a fascinating, cheap and varied meal stop.
If you want some sincerely excellent food, in between the edge of the lake and Bishkek is a Dungan community with a small but exquisite restaurant operated out of a family’s home
I don’t know the name, regretfully, but I’m sure you could find it on Google. One of the best meals I’ve ever eaten. The Dungan are the originators of the “bowl” as westerners call it, only they grow every last bit of it on site, and also prepare an indescribable sauce to put on it. The garden is breathtaking.
翻译:我们在湖的南岸待了一周,又在北岸待了一周。
湖始终都在那里——要么映入眼帘,要么出现在视野边缘;在高山之上时,还会以一抹蓝色闪现。湖水清澈纯净,蓝得不可思议,四周环绕着白雪皑皑的山峰。这一景象美得令人心醉,由于没有船只往来,也没有潮汐波动,整个环境显得格外宁静。
顺便提一下:没人事先提醒我们这片湖是神圣不可侵犯的。在湖里穿沙滩鞋是禁忌,同样,嗯,谈论在水中如厕也是禁忌。我无意中听到了这样一段对话,庆幸没有当地人也听到。否则可能就会发生私刑了。
游览湖泊时有一套体现尊重与清洁的礼仪规范。
我喜欢这样。我喜爱吉尔吉斯斯坦那种“呵护自然”的生活方式。这里绝没有垃圾!
南部地区的人们非常担心开发项目会破坏自然环境。说实话,对于北部地区“开发过度”的情况我有点震惊。不过按照西方的标准来看,那里其实也算不上开发过度,只是有一些据说是“俄罗斯风格”的度假村让人有些瞠目结舌罢了。
如果你去吉尔吉斯斯坦,一定要去看看伊塞克湖。
另外,回到比什凯克后,建议去Spar加油站看看(没错,你没听错)。那里能吃到物美价廉且种类丰富的美食。
如果你想要真正出色的美食体验的话……在湖边与比什凯克之间有一个东干人社区,那里有一家规模虽小却十分精致的餐馆,就开在一户人家里。
很遗憾,我不知道这家餐馆的名字,不过相信在谷歌上一定能查到。那是我吃过的最美味的餐食之一。所谓西方人所说的“拌面碗”,其实就是东干人发明的;他们自己种植所用的全部原料,还会调制出一种难以用言语形容的美味酱汁。那里的花园也美得令人惊叹。