点评:We’ve skied a good number of times now, based in Tignes (which I reviewed last year under the title ‘It’s not for beginners’), but figure I now have enough experience of jumping over the ridge and having great fun in Val D’Isère to offer a few top tips for readers based in Tignes.
1. If staying in Tignes 2100, the natural way is to take the ‘Toviere’ gondola, opening at 0900 (‘ish, depending on the safety checks, coffee and cigarette consumption of the operators). From here, you can immediately drop over into Val D’Isère, or ski down the blue piste ‘Henri’ towards Val Claret, and the ‘Fresse’ chairlift. The latter is our favourite, a long glorious piste first thing in the morning, perfect for warming up and carving clear trails in the corduroy.
2. If staying in Val Claret, then access will probably be via the ‘Fresse’ chairlift (and for those who have had an exhilarating warm up down Piste ‘Henri’). This lift can be affected by weather, or other conditions, but all being well opens at 0915.
3. Both routes open up the wonderful Bellevarde area of Val d’Isère. There are several green pistes here and they can be really quiet first thing in the day so are a great option for those who are seeking runs to develop their techniques, and perhaps find Tignes a bit intimidating. Great fun for more experienced skiers too!
4. The ‘Marmottes’ chairlift whisks you up to the Roche de Bellevarde, somewhat busier and the top can be a confusing mass of skiers spearing off in all directions. But if this is as far as you go, don’t miss out on ‘Grand Prix’ as again it can be really quiet out there. The thing about Bellevarde is that it offers wonderful opportunities that quite frankly are easier than Tignes, so perfect for the beginner or less confident skier (and let’s be honest, most of us have either been a beginner or a bit less confident).
5. So you want to go further? Then you will need to drop down into the Val D’Isère valley itself. And this is where it can be a bit tricky, so let’s look at the three main options in turn.
From the Col De Fresse / Toviere area, probably via La Dialle. This is probably the less challenging sector to descend in, with a number of pistes to choose from. However, from our experience, the red pistes are more straightforward than the blue ‘Diebold’ piste, the latter can become crowded and very very bumpy in places. From the base, it’s just a short walk to the ski bus if you want to go further up the valley.
The next options are from Roche de Bellevarde, and I found these more challenging. Pistes ‘Face de Bellevarde’ / Stade Olympique’ are of course the famed and iconic home of ski racers. It’s a challenge, a ‘thing’. But it’s bloody steep, and it can be intimidating. At times when hard packed or icy, or crowded, it can be downright heart in the mouth stuff. But get the right time of day and conditions, like ‘wow’, and hopefully a great sense of achievement. If you don’t fancy the black, (and well, you will still have to do the upper section), the red piste ‘Joseray’ is a good escape option, though it’s still pretty steep!
From Bellevarde, avoid red piste ‘Santons’. More often than not, it’s closed, due avalanche risk. But I think this is a good thing, as in my opinion, it’s horrible. It descends through a steep sided gully where the sun rarely reaches, and it’s just not fun.
The third option is to take a lift down, and you know what? There’s nothing wrong with this. If the options to ski down take you out of your comfort zone, so what? It’s always better to have enjoyed that day rather than scare yourself senseless or come down on a stretcher!
6. From Val D’Isère village, the Solaise gondola can quickly whisk you up into the Solaise area. It’s a busier place, but still lots of room the enjoy the rollocking fine pistes above. Red piste ‘Arcelle’ seems to be a secret! It’s quiet, long, has a couple of steeper sections but is great fun. Do it without stopping. Do it twice!
7. From Solaise, if you have the time, keep going! Take the iconic ‘Leissières’ chairlift up and over the ridge. The ride will take your breath away, just don’t drop your phone! And open up another ski area, which strangely always seems to be quieter. Restaurant La Cascades is our ‘go-to’ for lunch, but tip, be seated by 11:45 as from then the queues grow exponentially. Having an early lunch means a bit of time to enjoy the wonderful pistes in this area while everyone else is having theirs. And do go down the pistes to the base of the new (opened December 2024) gondola ‘Vallon’ for a lift back up!
8. So the return. You will need go via Val D’Isère itself again (or take the ski bus). Our preferred way is via red pistes ‘Plan / Piste M’, but as a rule of thumb, we try and do it by 1400. After then, it can get really busy, and a lot of skiers find the steepness a challenge and end up in a clattering bunch of bits.
9. The huge ‘Olympique’ gondola, your ride out, can have horrific queues, so don’t leave it late. We’ve seen some pretty aggressive behaviours here as skiers push and shove, desperate for a last run or their ride home. But from here, a choice of routes home, and we prefer the ‘Tommeuses’ chairlift out and back into Tignes.
10. Our perfect day out? A bit like above. Although from the first descent of ‘Henri’, why not do an early bird run from La Grande Motte before taking ‘Fresse’ into Val D’Isère. And as a final bit of advice, chairlifts ‘Les Lanches’ and ‘Vanoise’ can really avoid the funiculaire queues and claustrophobic atmosphere! But enjoy, we love the openness and, yes, you can find it, quietness of the runs high above Val D’Isère.
翻译:我们已经在蒂涅滑雪很多次了(去年我曾以“它不适合初学者”为题评论过它),但我认为现在我已经有足够的经验跳过山脊并在 Val D’Isère 玩得很开心,可以为住在蒂涅的读者提供一些重要提示。
1. 如果在 2100 之前住在蒂涅,自然的方式是乘坐“Toviere”缆车,开放时间为 0900(取决于安全检查、操作员的咖啡和香烟消费情况)。从这里,您可以立即到达 Val D’Isère,或者沿着蓝色滑雪道“Henri”滑向 Val Claret 和“Fresse”缆车。后者是我们最喜欢的,早上第一件事就是滑一条长而壮丽的滑雪道,非常适合热身并在灯芯绒上开辟清晰的路径。
2. 如果住在 Val Claret,那么可能要通过“Fresse”缆车才能到达(对于那些已经在 Piste “Henri” 上进行过令人振奋的热身的人来说)。该缆车可能会受到天气或其他条件的影响,但一切顺利的话,将于 0915 开放。
3. 两条路线都通往 Val d’Isère 的 Bellevarde 地区。这里有几条绿色的滑雪道,它们在一天开始时可能非常安静,因此对于那些想要练习滑雪技巧并且可能觉得 Tignes 有点吓人的人来说,这是一个很好的选择。对于经验丰富的滑雪者来说也很有趣!
4. “Marmottes”缆车将您带到 Roche de Bellevarde,那里有点繁忙,顶部可能会有一大群滑雪者从四面八方冲出,令人眼花缭乱。但如果您只能走到这里,不要错过“大奖赛”,因为那里可能真的很安静。 Bellevarde 的优点在于它提供了绝佳的机会,坦率地说,它比 Tignes 更容易,因此非常适合初学者或不太自信的滑雪者(说实话,我们大多数人要么是初学者,要么不太自信)。
5. 所以你想走得更远?那么你需要下降到 Val D’Isère 山谷本身。这可能有点棘手,所以让我们依次看看三个主要选项。
从 Col De Fresse / Toviere 地区出发,可能通过 La Dialle。这可能是下降难度较小的部分,有许多滑雪道可供选择。但是,根据我们的经验,红色滑雪道比蓝色“Diebold”滑雪道更简单,后者在某些地方会变得拥挤且非常颠簸。从基地出发,如果您想进一步上山谷,只需步行一小段即可到达滑雪巴士。
接下来的选择是从 Roche de Bellevarde 出发,我发现这些更具挑战性。滑雪道‘Face de Bellevarde’/奥林匹克球场’当然是滑雪运动员的著名和标志性的家园。这是一个挑战,一个‘东西’。但它非常陡峭,可能会令人生畏。有时,当雪堆坚硬或结冰或拥挤时,它可能会让人心惊胆战。但要选择合适的时间和条件,比如‘哇’,并希望获得巨大的成就感。如果你不喜欢黑色滑雪道(好吧,你仍然必须走上半段),红色滑雪道‘Joseray’是一个不错的选择,尽管它仍然相当陡峭!
从 Bellevarde 出发,避免红色滑雪道‘Santons’。由于雪崩风险,它通常关闭。但我认为这是一件好事,因为在我看来,它很糟糕。它穿过一个陡峭的沟壑,阳光很少照射到那里,一点也不好玩。
第三个选择是乘坐缆车下山,你知道吗?这没什么不对。如果滑雪下山的选择让你感到不舒服,那又怎么样?享受那一天总是比吓得失去意识或躺在担架上要好!
6. 从 Val D’Isère 村出发,Solaise 缆车可以快速将你带到 Solaise 地区。这是一个比较繁忙的地方,但仍有足够的空间来享受上面起伏的优质滑雪道。红色滑雪道“Arcelle”似乎是个秘密!它很安静,很长,有几个较陡的路段,但非常有趣。不停地走。再走两次!
7. 从 Solaise 出发,如果你有时间,继续走!乘坐标志性的“Leissières”缆车上山,越过山脊。这段旅程会让你惊叹不已,只是不要把手机掉在地上!然后打开另一个滑雪区,奇怪的是,它似乎总是更安静。 Restaurant La Cascades 是我们午餐的首选,但建议在 11:45 之前入座,因为从那时起排队人数会成倍增加。早点吃午饭意味着有一点时间享受这个地区美妙的滑雪道,而其他人都在吃午饭。一定要沿着滑雪道走到新的(2024 年 12 月开放)缆车“Vallon”的底部,然后乘缆车回去!
8. 回程。您需要再次经过 Val D'Isère(或乘坐滑雪巴士)。我们首选的方式是通过红色滑雪道“Plan / Piste M”,但根据经验,我们会尝试在 14:00 之前完成。在那之后,它会变得非常繁忙,很多滑雪者发现陡峭的坡度是一个挑战,最终陷入了一堆嘈杂的碎片中。
9. 巨大的“Olympique”缆车,您的出游之行,可能会有可怕的排队,所以不要迟到。我们在这里看到了一些相当激进的行为,滑雪者推搡着,急切地想要最后一次滑行或回家。但从这里回家的路线可供选择,我们更喜欢“Tommeuses”缆车,然后返回蒂涅。
10. 我们完美的一天?有点像上面。虽然从“Henri”的第一次下降开始,为什么不在乘坐“Fresse”进入 Val D’Isère 之前从 La Grande Motte 早点出发呢。作为最后的一点建议,缆车“Les Lanches”和“Vanoise”可以真正避免缆车排队和幽闭的氛围!但请尽情享受,我们喜欢 Val D’Isère 高处滑道的开放性和安静性,是的,你可以找到它。