点评:It’s quite hard to review somewhere as extensive and special as Etosha NWR, so rather than try, here’s 10 tips based on our access through Andersson Gate to the south, staying outside of the park, as an independent traveller.
1. Getting the park entry done takes a bit of time, and if there is a queue, even a bit more time! Ensure you have your passport. We arrived mid-afternoon, and rather than go direct to our booked accommodation outside the park (at Oberland Etosha Lodge), we thought we’d spend a few afternoon hours in the park. Thus we were fortunate on two counts: having our passports, as none of our literature specified this requirement; arriving at a quiet time.
2. You will then have to pay for the permit. And this is not done at the gate. From the southern gate, it’s in the Okaukuejo office. Avoid peak times and the queues if you can.
3. If planning an early entry to the park (ie, sunrise), maybe get all the admin done the day before. Then you won’t have to waste time in frustrating queues.
4. I you want to get there first thing, get the definite time for the gate opening, generally from the park authorities. Then get to the gate a few minutes before.
5. Keep your eyes peeled driving to the park, the area abounds with wildlife. A highlight was spotting two honeybadgers!
6. You may decide to take a tour, or self-drive. Both have pros and cons. I guess the greatest pro of taking an organised tour is if you really really want to see something, eg, cheetah. There is no doubt the guides will have a much better sense of where to see something specific, and of course they have radios to communicate sightings. But there again there are no guarantees.
7. But we were so glad we travelled independently. The maps are very clear, and even though some of the place names are a bit faded, (there are no signposts, just big concrete blocks with painted on directions), navigation is easy as the map details the distance in km between each junction. It meant we were in control of our timeline, so we could linger as long as we wanted at a busy waterhole, or retrace our steps to look again.
8. So let’s talk about the driving conditions, as there seems to be a number of poor reviews due to just that, some of which are embroidered with a liberal helping of hyperbole. This is a reserve folks, with an intent to minimise human impact as the wildlife own this space. I wonder what planet reviewers are on, expecting metalled roads, or graders working 24/7. The area belongs to wildlife, not humans. Yes, the roads are rough in parts, and over a whole day, driving can become mentally and physically fatiguing. But have an appropriate vehicle. I assume all those for organised tours are. But if travelling independently, apply some common sense. We had a Hilux, with a full tank of gas from the fuel station 3km before Andersson Gate and two spare tyres, and that met what I would call the entry-level standard. But a city-style ‘SUV’, hmmmm. And a VW Polo (and yes, we saw one), really?
9. Halali made a good planned stop for a coffee break / loo stop and to stretch our legs. The coffee was awful, but it was good to be out of the car for 30 minutes.
10. Be flexible. Be as flexible as the wildlife. Take joy in the unexpected, such as rhino crossing the road just in front of you, or a waterhole ‘swap-out’ between two 25 strong herds of elephants. Just wonderful. We thought we’d be in the park for 6 hours, but we spent 10 there and could have happily spent more. And if the wildlife doesn’t show, it’s not their fault. If you want guarantees and comfort, go to Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge.
翻译:很难评价像埃托沙国家野生动物保护区这样广阔而特别的地方,所以与其尝试,不如根据我们作为独立旅行者从南边的安德森门进入公园、住在公园外的经历,提出 10 条建议。
1. 办理公园入园手续需要一些时间,如果要排队,时间会更长!确保你带了护照。我们下午到达,没有直接去公园外预订的住宿(Oberland Etosha Lodge),而是想在公园里度过几个下午的时光。因此,我们在两个方面很幸运:带了护照,因为我们的所有文献都没有提到这个要求;到达的时间比较安静。
2. 然后你必须支付许可证费用。这不是在门口办理的。从南门出发,在 Okaukuejo 办公室办理。如果可以的话,避开高峰时段和排队。
3. 如果计划早点进入公园(即日出时分),也许可以在前一天完成所有行政工作。这样你就不必浪费时间在令人沮丧的排队上了。
4. 如果你想先到那里,通常要从公园管理部门那里得到确切的开门时间。然后提前几分钟到达大门。
5. 开车去公园时要睁大眼睛,该地区野生动物众多。亮点是发现了两只蜜獾!
6. 你可以决定参加旅行团,或者自驾游。两者都有优点和缺点。我想参加有组织的旅行团最大的好处是如果你真的非常想看一些东西,比如猎豹。毫无疑问,导游会更清楚在哪里可以看到特定的事物,当然他们也有无线电来传达目击情况。但同样,没有保证。
7. 但我们很高兴我们是独立旅行的。地图非常清晰,尽管有些地名有点褪色(没有路标,只有大块混凝土,上面画着方向),但导航很容易,因为地图详细标明了每个路口之间的距离(公里)。这意味着我们可以控制自己的时间线,所以我们可以在繁忙的水坑逗留任意长的时间,或者原路返回再看一看。
8. 那么让我们来谈谈驾驶条件,因为似乎有很多差评就是因为这个原因,其中一些评论带有夸张的成分。这是一个保护区,旨在将人类的影响降到最低,因为野生动物拥有这个空间。我想知道评论者们在哪个星球上,期待着铺上碎石的道路,或者 24/7 全天候工作的平地机。这个地区属于野生动物,而不是人类。是的,道路有些地方很崎岖,一整天下来,开车会让人身心疲惫。但要有一辆合适的车辆。我认为所有参加有组织的旅游的人都是这样的。但如果是独立旅行,请运用一些常识。我们有一辆 Hilux,在距离安德森门 3 公里的加油站加满了油,还有两个备用轮胎,这符合我所说的入门级标准。但这是一辆城市风格的“SUV”,嗯。还有一辆大众 Polo(是的,我们看到了一辆),真的吗?
9. Halali 计划好了停下来喝咖啡/上厕所,伸伸腿。咖啡很难喝,但能下车 30 分钟感觉很好。
10. 灵活。像野生动物一样灵活。享受意想不到的乐趣,比如犀牛就在你面前穿过马路,或者两群 25 头大象在水坑“交换”。太棒了。我们原以为会在公园里呆 6 个小时,但我们在那里呆了 10 个小时,本来可以开心地呆更长时间。如果野生动物没有出现,那不是它们的错。如果您想要保障和舒适,请前往迪士尼动物王国旅馆。