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A worthwhile stop on the trip from Palm Springs to Joshua Tree
Big Morongo Canyon Preserve的点评
点评：After Palm Springs we we headed north to Joshua Tree. En route we first explored another oasis in the foothills of the Little San Bernardino Mountains, Big Morongo Canyon. We wanted to join a free, early-morning birding hike.
Unlike the oasis we had visited in Palm Canyon, Morongo was a willow and cottonwood tree oasis and, until recently, was wet enough to even sustain a marsh. The infamous San Andrea Fault runs through Coachella Valley near Palm Springs and a side fault disrupts the groundwater basin bringing water to the surface. The normally lush vegetation in the valley contrasts with the desert scrub in the nearby hills. Only 8 inches (20 cm) of rain fall here, meeting the criterion of desert regions having less than 25 cm precipitation each year. Without the groundwater being forced up this would be desert scrub as well. This area was settled by the native Serrano Indians until smallpox nearly wiped them out in the mid-1800s. The survivors were transferred out to a reservation “freeing” up the land for resettlement.
This was once the homestead of Mark (‘Chuck’) and Sylvia Warren who settled here in 1883. They built their home with raw materials from the area, hand-dug their well, raised 11 children, and ran a cattle ranch. The original homestead burnt down about 100 years ago but cattle ranching continued until the late 1960s. The land has since reverted to something like its original state and has been maintained as a nature/wildlife reserve. We viewed the stone memorial erected by their descendants deep inside the preserve.
The lush vegetation supports a wide variety of fauna and is also considered a birding “hotspot” which is why we were out here before 0800 to join a guided birding hike.
An unexpected sighting: a flock of 12 turkey vultures roosting in bare trees. Until that morning we had only seen vultures aloft, riding air currents.
Other raptors spotted included Cooper’s hawk, Red-tailed hawk, and the American kestrel (North America’s smallest falcon). We even witnessed American kestrels mate high up atop a tree. Spring was definitely in the air.
The trees provided shelter for another kind of raptor. In one tree a great-horned owl napped behind a dense curtain of branches. Another had a large hollow that at first glance appeared dark and empty. Closer inspection revealed that a Barn owl had taken shelter within the hole.
We were lucky to spot the hooded oriole that was strongly associated with the California fan palm; this was first sighting of the spring, even for our birding guide. They were migrating back from overwintering in Mexico. On the other hand there were many noisy California scrub-jays calling out to each other. The small vermilion flycatchers were eye-catching as flashes of scarlet as territorial males chase away challengers. We spotted Costa’s and Anna’s hummingbirds, even one nesting by the trail just about an eye level (depending on your height, of course).
Ladder-backed and Nutall’s woodpeckers were also busy high above us. Distinguishing between the 2 species was difficult.
On the boardwalk where marsh and desert meet we would encounter craggy rock outcroppings. The tectonic forces that created the canyon pushed up ancient rock layers to near the surface where erosion of younger and softer rock eventually exposed underlying 2-billion year old metamorphic rock.
Trail trash is always a problem in popular hikes but half-buried rusting car was next level. Further down from the ancient rock outcrops we came upon this strange sight. Mystery continues to surround this provenance of this bullet-ridden 1941 Ford Club Coupe car. It had to have been driven to the top of the hill above us - the ground here had once been a marsh, after all - and then driven off the edge.
Speaking of cars and returning to the tale of the Warren family. Chuck not only managed a cattle ranch business but also ran Studebaker stage coaches and hosted travelers on their way to the coast. He apparently did not think highly of the new-fangled automobile, but this did not stop one of his sons from buying one. Chuck Warren eventually agreed to ride with his son on a trip to Big Bear Lake (up in the snow-covered San Gorgonio mountain easily spotted from here). His fear proved well-founded; along the way a spring broke, flipping the car, crushing Chuck. He died in 1917.
Multiple signs warned of potential mountain lion encounters. We never came close to one as far as we know. In fact we didn’t spot much in the way of non-avian fauna.
We had a great time at the preserve, not just because the birding was great but also due to how different the environment and flora were from the surrounding area. It would be even more interesting to see the canyon during and the spring snow melt when the marsh and grasses turn green. Learning a little about the human history of the place gave added resonance to the visit.
Unlike the oasis we had visited in Palm Canyon, Morongo was a willow and cottonwood tree oasis and, until recently, was wet enough to even sustain a marsh. The infamous San Andrea Fault runs through Coachella Valley near Palm Springs and a side fault disrupts the groundwater basin bringing water to the surface. The normally lush vegetation in the valley contrasts with the desert scrub in the nearby hills. Only 8 inches (20 cm) of rain fall here, meeting the criterion of desert regions having less than 25 cm precipitation each year. Without the groundwater being forced up this would be desert scrub as well. This area was settled by the native Serrano Indians until smallpox nearly wiped them out in the mid-1800s. The survivors were transferred out to a reservation “freeing” up the land for resettlement.
This was once the homestead of Mark (‘Chuck’) and Sylvia Warren who settled here in 1883. They built their home with raw materials from the area, hand-dug their well, raised 11 children, and ran a cattle ranch. The original homestead burnt down about 100 years ago but cattle ranching continued until the late 1960s. The land has since reverted to something like its original state and has been maintained as a nature/wildlife reserve. We viewed the stone memorial erected by their descendants deep inside the preserve.
The lush vegetation supports a wide variety of fauna and is also considered a birding “hotspot” which is why we were out here before 0800 to join a guided birding hike.
An unexpected sighting: a flock of 12 turkey vultures roosting in bare trees. Until that morning we had only seen vultures aloft, riding air currents.
Other raptors spotted included Cooper’s hawk, Red-tailed hawk, and the American kestrel (North America’s smallest falcon). We even witnessed American kestrels mate high up atop a tree. Spring was definitely in the air.
The trees provided shelter for another kind of raptor. In one tree a great-horned owl napped behind a dense curtain of branches. Another had a large hollow that at first glance appeared dark and empty. Closer inspection revealed that a Barn owl had taken shelter within the hole.
We were lucky to spot the hooded oriole that was strongly associated with the California fan palm; this was first sighting of the spring, even for our birding guide. They were migrating back from overwintering in Mexico. On the other hand there were many noisy California scrub-jays calling out to each other. The small vermilion flycatchers were eye-catching as flashes of scarlet as territorial males chase away challengers. We spotted Costa’s and Anna’s hummingbirds, even one nesting by the trail just about an eye level (depending on your height, of course).
Ladder-backed and Nutall’s woodpeckers were also busy high above us. Distinguishing between the 2 species was difficult.
On the boardwalk where marsh and desert meet we would encounter craggy rock outcroppings. The tectonic forces that created the canyon pushed up ancient rock layers to near the surface where erosion of younger and softer rock eventually exposed underlying 2-billion year old metamorphic rock.
Trail trash is always a problem in popular hikes but half-buried rusting car was next level. Further down from the ancient rock outcrops we came upon this strange sight. Mystery continues to surround this provenance of this bullet-ridden 1941 Ford Club Coupe car. It had to have been driven to the top of the hill above us - the ground here had once been a marsh, after all - and then driven off the edge.
Speaking of cars and returning to the tale of the Warren family. Chuck not only managed a cattle ranch business but also ran Studebaker stage coaches and hosted travelers on their way to the coast. He apparently did not think highly of the new-fangled automobile, but this did not stop one of his sons from buying one. Chuck Warren eventually agreed to ride with his son on a trip to Big Bear Lake (up in the snow-covered San Gorgonio mountain easily spotted from here). His fear proved well-founded; along the way a spring broke, flipping the car, crushing Chuck. He died in 1917.
Multiple signs warned of potential mountain lion encounters. We never came close to one as far as we know. In fact we didn’t spot much in the way of non-avian fauna.
We had a great time at the preserve, not just because the birding was great but also due to how different the environment and flora were from the surrounding area. It would be even more interesting to see the canyon during and the spring snow melt when the marsh and grasses turn green. Learning a little about the human history of the place gave added resonance to the visit.
翻译：离开棕榈泉后，我们向北前往约书亚树。途中，我们首先探索了小圣贝纳迪诺山麓的另一个绿洲，大莫龙戈峡谷。我们想参加一次免费的清晨观鸟徒步活动。
与我们参观过的棕榈峡谷绿洲不同，莫龙戈是一个柳树和杨树绿洲，直到最近，这里的湿度还足以维持一片沼泽。臭名昭著的圣安德烈亚断层穿过棕榈泉附近的科切拉山谷，一条侧断层破坏了地下水盆地，将水引到地表。山谷中通常茂盛的植被与附近山丘上的沙漠灌木丛形成了鲜明的对比。这里的降雨量只有 8 英寸（20 厘米），符合沙漠地区每年降雨量不足 25 厘米的标准。如果没有地下水被逼上来，这里也会是沙漠灌木丛。塞拉诺印第安人曾定居于此，直到 19 世纪中期，天花几乎将他们消灭殆尽。幸存者被转移到保留地，从而“腾出”土地用于重新安置。
这里曾经是马克（“查克”）和西尔维娅·沃伦的家园，他们于 1883 年在此定居。他们用当地的原材料建造房屋，手工挖井，养育 11 个孩子，经营牧场。最初的家园大约 100 年前被烧毁，但养牛业一直持续到 20 世纪 60 年代末。此后，这片土地恢复到原来的状态，并一直作为自然/野生动物保护区保留。我们在保护区深处看到了他们的后代竖立的石碑。
茂密的植被养活了各种各样的动物，也被认为是观鸟的“热点”，这就是为什么我们在 0800 之前就来到这里参加有导游陪同的观鸟徒步旅行。
意外的发现：一群 12 只红头美洲鹫栖息在光秃秃的树上。直到那天早上，我们只看到秃鹫在空中乘风而行。
发现的其他猛禽包括库珀鹰、红尾鹰和美洲红隼（北美最小的猎鹰）。我们甚至看到美洲红隼在树顶交配。春天的气息扑面而来。
树木为另一种猛禽提供了庇护所。一棵树上，一只大角猫头鹰在茂密的树枝后面打盹。另一棵树上有一个大洞，乍一看似乎又黑又空。仔细观察后发现，一只仓鸮在洞里避难。
我们很幸运地发现了与加州蒲葵密切相关的黑头金莺；即使是我们的观鸟导游，这也是第一次看到春天。它们正从墨西哥过冬迁徙回来。另一方面，有许多吵闹的加州灌丛鸦在互相呼唤。小型朱红色捕蝇鸟非常引人注目，因为雄性捕蝇鸟会驱赶挑战者，它们身上的猩红色会闪闪发光。我们发现了科斯塔蜂鸟和安娜蜂鸟，甚至有一只在小径旁筑巢，距离眼睛的高度不远（当然，这取决于你的身高）。
梯背啄木鸟和纳氏啄木鸟也在我们上方忙碌。区分这两个物种很困难。
在沼泽和沙漠交汇的木板路上，我们会看到崎岖的岩石露头。形成峡谷的构造力将古老的岩层推到地表附近，在那里，较年轻和较软的岩石的侵蚀最终暴露出下面的 20 亿年前的变质岩。
在热门的徒步旅行中，小径垃圾一直是个问题，但半埋的生锈汽车是下一个问题。从古老的岩石露头往下走，我们看到了这个奇怪的景象。这辆被子弹打穿的 1941 年福特俱乐部跑车的出处仍是一个谜。它必须被开到我们上方的山顶——毕竟这里的地面曾经是一片沼泽——然后从边缘开下去。
说到汽车，回到沃伦家族的故事。查克不仅经营着一家牧场，还经营着斯图贝克驿马车，接待前往海岸的旅行者。他显然对这种新奇的汽车评价不高，但这并没有阻止他的一个儿子买一辆。查克·沃伦最终同意和他的儿子一起去大熊湖旅行（在白雪覆盖的圣戈尔戈尼奥山上，从这里很容易看到）。他的恐惧被证明是有根据的；在路上，一个弹簧断了，翻了车，压死了查克。他于 1917 年去世。
多个标志警告可能会遇到美洲狮。据我们所知，我们从未接近过一只。事实上，我们没有发现太多非鸟类动物。
我们在保护区度过了一段美好的时光，不仅因为鸟类观赏很棒，还因为这里的环境和植物与周围地区截然不同。当沼泽和草地变绿时，在春雪融化时欣赏峡谷会更有趣。了解一点这个地方的人类历史会给这次访问增添更多共鸣。
与我们参观过的棕榈峡谷绿洲不同，莫龙戈是一个柳树和杨树绿洲，直到最近，这里的湿度还足以维持一片沼泽。臭名昭著的圣安德烈亚断层穿过棕榈泉附近的科切拉山谷，一条侧断层破坏了地下水盆地，将水引到地表。山谷中通常茂盛的植被与附近山丘上的沙漠灌木丛形成了鲜明的对比。这里的降雨量只有 8 英寸（20 厘米），符合沙漠地区每年降雨量不足 25 厘米的标准。如果没有地下水被逼上来，这里也会是沙漠灌木丛。塞拉诺印第安人曾定居于此，直到 19 世纪中期，天花几乎将他们消灭殆尽。幸存者被转移到保留地，从而“腾出”土地用于重新安置。
这里曾经是马克（“查克”）和西尔维娅·沃伦的家园，他们于 1883 年在此定居。他们用当地的原材料建造房屋，手工挖井，养育 11 个孩子，经营牧场。最初的家园大约 100 年前被烧毁，但养牛业一直持续到 20 世纪 60 年代末。此后，这片土地恢复到原来的状态，并一直作为自然/野生动物保护区保留。我们在保护区深处看到了他们的后代竖立的石碑。
茂密的植被养活了各种各样的动物，也被认为是观鸟的“热点”，这就是为什么我们在 0800 之前就来到这里参加有导游陪同的观鸟徒步旅行。
意外的发现：一群 12 只红头美洲鹫栖息在光秃秃的树上。直到那天早上，我们只看到秃鹫在空中乘风而行。
发现的其他猛禽包括库珀鹰、红尾鹰和美洲红隼（北美最小的猎鹰）。我们甚至看到美洲红隼在树顶交配。春天的气息扑面而来。
树木为另一种猛禽提供了庇护所。一棵树上，一只大角猫头鹰在茂密的树枝后面打盹。另一棵树上有一个大洞，乍一看似乎又黑又空。仔细观察后发现，一只仓鸮在洞里避难。
我们很幸运地发现了与加州蒲葵密切相关的黑头金莺；即使是我们的观鸟导游，这也是第一次看到春天。它们正从墨西哥过冬迁徙回来。另一方面，有许多吵闹的加州灌丛鸦在互相呼唤。小型朱红色捕蝇鸟非常引人注目，因为雄性捕蝇鸟会驱赶挑战者，它们身上的猩红色会闪闪发光。我们发现了科斯塔蜂鸟和安娜蜂鸟，甚至有一只在小径旁筑巢，距离眼睛的高度不远（当然，这取决于你的身高）。
梯背啄木鸟和纳氏啄木鸟也在我们上方忙碌。区分这两个物种很困难。
在沼泽和沙漠交汇的木板路上，我们会看到崎岖的岩石露头。形成峡谷的构造力将古老的岩层推到地表附近，在那里，较年轻和较软的岩石的侵蚀最终暴露出下面的 20 亿年前的变质岩。
在热门的徒步旅行中，小径垃圾一直是个问题，但半埋的生锈汽车是下一个问题。从古老的岩石露头往下走，我们看到了这个奇怪的景象。这辆被子弹打穿的 1941 年福特俱乐部跑车的出处仍是一个谜。它必须被开到我们上方的山顶——毕竟这里的地面曾经是一片沼泽——然后从边缘开下去。
说到汽车，回到沃伦家族的故事。查克不仅经营着一家牧场，还经营着斯图贝克驿马车，接待前往海岸的旅行者。他显然对这种新奇的汽车评价不高，但这并没有阻止他的一个儿子买一辆。查克·沃伦最终同意和他的儿子一起去大熊湖旅行（在白雪覆盖的圣戈尔戈尼奥山上，从这里很容易看到）。他的恐惧被证明是有根据的；在路上，一个弹簧断了，翻了车，压死了查克。他于 1917 年去世。
多个标志警告可能会遇到美洲狮。据我们所知，我们从未接近过一只。事实上，我们没有发现太多非鸟类动物。
我们在保护区度过了一段美好的时光，不仅因为鸟类观赏很棒，还因为这里的环境和植物与周围地区截然不同。当沼泽和草地变绿时，在春雪融化时欣赏峡谷会更有趣。了解一点这个地方的人类历史会给这次访问增添更多共鸣。
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