点评:We were extremely hesitant to book with a safari company, as we have lately used to self-drive and have had somewhat mixed experiences of safari companies earlier. However, Otto`s response was convincing and after a few messages we decided to book southern parks camping safari with him. Afterwards I’m sure the proposal was written by Ai, or at least by another person, so different were the messages closer to our departure.
He picked us up from our hotel in Dar es Salaam as agreed and we started the safari. We soon noticed that the car wasn’t in particularly good condition. Tires were normal street tires rather than for demanding terrain. And there was clearly something wrong with the brakes…..no handbrake and other rear brake at all.
We first drove to Nyerere Tented Camp where we were due to spend one night. First activity was a boat trip on the river, it was nice and we had some great sightings with different birds, hippo and crocks. We soon found out that because of heavy rains just a couple of days before, we couldn’t reach our special campsite inside the park to camp. So we stayed in Nyerere Tented Camp few extra nights. It was ok, but of course we were disappointed as the camping was the thing for us. We enjoyed our stay in Tented Camp and the game drives in the park. We had to pay some extra for the accommodation, Otto wanted us to pay to him, not to the camp, which I found strange. And he asked even more money the next day as he “misunderstood the price”. He never mentioned a second boat safari that was in our itinerary nor any compensation either.
After Nyerere, we one more unplanned overnight stay in Lemara Eco Camp, which was very nice welcoming place with the best food we had on the entire trip. From there we travelled to Mikumi and stayed in Camp Bastian. Camp was ok, but Mikumi we found too crowded for us. So many day visitors from Zanzibar flying in and they all moved around as a big mass wanting to see everything in few hours. Poor lions were surrounded by dozens of cars.
After Mikumi we drove towards Udzungwa mountains to Hondo Hondo camp. It looked absolutely beautiful on the edge of a big forest. Once we arrived, Otto said to us not to leave any valuables in our tent as his previous clients have had something stolen there. Ok so why did you booked us there then? Are we supposed to carry our 12 kg + 10 kg camera and electronics bags all over the camp? We had no issues with security there and there was always a guard close to our tent when we were not in. Much appreciated. We totally enjoyed this camp as it was so beautiful there. Also the tent was nice with very good outdoor shower. When we booked the safari I told we want to try to find a rare Pel`s fishing owl that resides the nearby forest. We had three!! guides accompanying us in the forest. It was nice, and none of them seemed to be looking for the owl so it was no big surprise we didn’t find it. And half of the way we walked along the railway tracks, which was just very hot, but no birds, let alone owls.
Next destination was Ruaha and on the way we stopped to do some shopping in Iringa. It was interesting to visit a big vegetable market, so many wonderful fresh things there presented beautifully. In Ruaha we were actually able to reach the special campsite called Ifuguru. What a special place and we loved it immediately. Finally camping, which was the whole point of our safari. When we started to set up our tent, we noticed it was very dirty all over, surely not cleaned after the previous use. It also smelled awful for the first couple of hours. We learned that Otto forgot to bring the toilet tent along. For us it wasn’t too big deal, but I can imagine for some it would be a big problem. Who does forget a thing like that? He also forgot to bring any torch or headlamp for himself to go around the camp. And he also didn’t have a portable solar charging system that was described in the proposal. Despite all of this, we enjoyed Ruaha very much and the food cooked by Otto was nice and tasty. Having fresh fruits in the bush is a luxury. We also had a walking safari in Ruaha on our itinerary. It never took place, nor did he ever mention anything about it or the compensation.
After Ruaha there was still a stop in Mikumi before heading back to our hotel in Dar es Salaam. Once we arrived Camp Bastian again Otto said that tomorrow is only an easy drive back to Dar. I reminded him that there was still a morning game drive in Mikumi on our itinerary. He had “forgotten” that too. So the next morning we had a last game drive and started a long drive towards Dar. We stopped in Morogoro to have a toilet break and stretch our legs. Otto was talking on the phone for a long time and after finish he came to talk to us. He said there was something wrong in the car that needs to be checked immediately. He didn’t explain what was wrong and did not mention anything about this along the way. He said we had basically two options, he would buy us train or bus tickets back to Dar. What? We booked a private safari and he was going to dump us to a public transport with all our luggage. At this point we have had enough and said we would have a private car and won’t go by bus or train. He then made some more calls and eventually told us that there is a car coming from Dar and we could then start to drive towards that. There was nothing wrong with the car other than it was alike originally. We drove another 150 kms to meet the other car. He just wanted to avoid the horrible traffic in Dar and also to drive all the way back home after dropping us, in that horrible traffic again. I have been on too many safaris to be tricked like this and feel offended being underestimated. Respect your clients as they come from other side of the world to spend lots of money with you.
We are sad that this ended like that, but it’s just too many red flags and issues to ignore. It was clear he knew the parks very well and had good contacts too, which surely helped us to find some sightings. If everything had gone well, we already had several places we would be interested visiting in the future. But trust issues and lack of respect are too serious for us and we are back in self-driving again.
翻译:我们一开始非常犹豫要不要预订旅行社,因为我们最近一直都是自驾游,而且之前跟旅行社的体验也褒贬不一。不过,奥托的回复很有说服力,我们聊了几句之后就决定跟他预订南部公园的露营之旅。后来我确信那份方案是艾写的,或者至少是别人写的,因为临近出发时的信息完全不一样了。
他按照约定到我们在达累斯萨拉姆的酒店接我们,然后我们开始了旅程。我们很快发现车况不太好。轮胎是普通的公路胎,而不是适合崎岖地形的轮胎。而且刹车显然也有问题……手刹和后轮刹车都失灵了。
我们首先开车前往尼雷尔帐篷营地,在那里住一晚。第一个活动是乘船游览河流,感觉很不错,我们看到了各种各样的鸟类、河马和鳄鱼。我们很快发现,由于前几天的大雨,我们无法到达公园内预定的营地。因此,我们在尼雷尔帐篷营地多住了几晚。虽然还算可以,但我们当然很失望,因为露营才是我们此行的目的。我们很享受在帐篷营地的住宿以及在公园里的游猎活动。住宿需要额外付费,奥托要求我们把钱付给他,而不是付给营地,这让我觉得很奇怪。第二天,他又以“误解价格”为由索要更多费用。他从未提及我们行程中的第二次乘船游猎,也没有提出任何补偿。
离开尼雷尔之后,我们在莱马拉生态营地又临时住了一晚。那里环境优美,热情好客,是我们整个旅程中吃到的最好的食物。之后,我们前往米库米,住在巴斯蒂安营地。营地还可以,但我们觉得米库米太拥挤了。很多来自桑给巴尔的游客乘飞机抵达,他们像一大群人一样涌来涌去,想在几个小时内看完所有景点。可怜的狮子被几十辆车包围着。
离开米库米后,我们驱车前往乌宗瓦山脉的洪多洪多营地。营地坐落在茂密森林的边缘,景色美极了。到达后,奥托告诉我们不要在帐篷里留下任何贵重物品,因为他之前的客人在那里丢过东西。好吧,那你为什么还要给我们订这个营地呢?难道我们要背着12公斤和10公斤的相机和电子产品包在营地里到处走吗?营地的安保措施很到位,我们不在帐篷的时候,总有保安在附近巡逻。非常感谢。我们非常喜欢这个营地,因为它实在太美了。帐篷也很不错,还有很棒的户外淋浴。预订safari行程时,我告诉他们我们想去寻找栖息在附近森林里的珍稀的佩氏渔鸮。我们竟然有三位向导陪同我们进入森林!感觉还不错,他们似乎都没在找猫头鹰,所以我们没找到也并不意外。我们沿着铁轨走了半程,天气很热,但一只鸟也没看到,更别提猫头鹰了。
下一站是鲁阿哈,途中我们在伊林加停下来逛了逛。逛逛大型蔬菜市场很有意思,那里有很多新鲜漂亮的蔬菜。到了鲁阿哈,我们终于到达了名为伊富古鲁的特色营地。真是个特别的地方,我们立刻就爱上了它。终于可以露营了,这才是我们这次旅行的重点。当我们开始搭帐篷时,发现帐篷里到处都很脏,显然上次用完后没有打扫。头几个小时还散发着一股难闻的气味。后来我们才知道,奥托忘了带厕所帐篷。对我们来说这倒没什么大不了的,但我能想象对有些人来说这会是个大问题。谁会忘记带这种东西呢?他还忘了带手电筒或头灯,以便在营地里走动。而且,他也没有带方案中提到的便携式太阳能充电系统。尽管如此,我们还是很喜欢鲁阿哈,奥托做的食物美味可口。在灌木丛里吃到新鲜水果真是一种享受。我们的行程安排中还包括在鲁阿哈的徒步旅行。但这次旅行并没有成行,他也从未提及此事或补偿事宜。
离开鲁阿哈后,我们还要去米库米停留,然后再返回达累斯萨拉姆的酒店。到达巴斯蒂安营地后,奥托又说明天只是开车轻松返回达累斯萨拉姆。我提醒他,我们的行程中还有在米库米的晨间游猎活动。他竟然也“忘记”了。于是,第二天早上我们进行了最后一次游猎,然后开始了前往达累斯萨拉姆的长途跋涉。我们在莫罗戈罗停留了一会儿,上个厕所,舒展一下筋骨。奥托打了很久的电话,结束后才过来和我们说话。他说车子出了点问题,需要马上检查。他没有解释到底出了什么问题,之前也没提过这件事。他说我们基本上只有两个选择,他答应给我们买回达累斯萨拉姆的火车票或巴士票。什么?我们预订的是私人旅行,他居然要把我们连同所有行李一起扔到公共交通工具上。我们当时已经忍无可忍,明确表示我们要包车,绝不坐火车或巴士。之后他又打了几个电话,最后告诉我们有一辆车从达累斯萨拉姆过来,我们可以开车过去。那辆车除了跟我们之前那辆车很像之外,其他方面都没什么问题。我们又开了150公里去和那辆车会合。他只是想避开达累斯萨拉姆糟糕的交通,而且把我们放下后,他自己也想再开车回家,再次经历那糟糕的交通。我参加过很多次旅行,从没被这样骗过,感觉被轻视了,很受冒犯。请尊重你的客户,他们从世界另一端来到这里,花了很多钱。
我们很遗憾这次旅行以这样的方式结束,但这里面疑点重重,令人无法忽视。很明显,他非常了解这些公园,而且人脉也很广,这无疑帮助我们找到了一些动物。如果一切顺利,我们已经有了几个将来想去的地方。但是信任问题和缺乏尊重对我们来说太严重了,所以我们又回到了自驾游的路上。