点评:We bought our one-way tickets about 20 days previously at a little travel agency called Nautalia in the Carrefour mall in the Pinilla section of Torremolinos. The agent was friendly and fast, and as we knew we were going to be carting all our luggage, we opted for business class. Doing the deal well in advance and in business (160 euro for two passengers) seemed to be the best advice we’d seen on the internet and we are really glad we did.
Turned out the train was packed. Had we waited until the day of the trip, we would have been sorely disappointed and forced to scramble for another travel option.
The business booking allowed us access to the Renfe lounge upstairs at the Málaga train station. While the room was large and the seating was comfortable, there wasn’t much in the way of things to eat or drink. There was a good view of the concourse to the west and the train platform to the east but otherwise, there were huge posters on the walls for the sponsors of the place, including one rather massive photo of the main donor, Antonio Banderas, a Málaga native and current resident/ impresario.
Eventually, we schlepped our stuff back downstairs and went through security, which was like going to your gate at an airport. We were a little worried about our bags being overweight but nobody said a word and we settled in for a relatively expensive coffee at the café near the platform for our train.
The call came to board and we soon found that our seats were in the second car, way down at the front of the train, so we had a bit of a walk, dragging heavy suitcases, to get there. We had to heft our bags into the car but fortunately, there was a space for them right inside and we found our seats easily.
The train left a little late – perhaps five minutes but frankly, I was amazed we were able to set off at all: a train had derailed on the same line the night before some 40 kilometres north of Málaga due to the storms that had hit Andalucia and Valencia in particular with devastating results.
In addition, an announcement noted that the train would be moving a little slower than normal due to signaling issues. Again, something I suspected was due to the storms.
However, once we got past the area where that train had derailed, the driver was able to put the pedal to the metal and soon, we were approaching speeds near 300 kmh (186 mph).
You could not feel we were going that fast. The tracks were as smooth as skating on a glass lake. The only sign of speed was the countryside and the clouds up above whizzing past the window. And it was supremely comfortable.
Arrival at our destination brought us back to Earth and then thrust into the brilliant madhouse that is Madrid. The lineup for taxis seemed impossibly long but went by in a flash. Still, we had enough time to chat with our fellow tourists around us and it was great.
That’s when I thought that taking the train was a lot more human than flying…
翻译:大约 20 天前,我们在托雷莫里诺斯皮尼利亚区家乐福购物中心一家名为 Nautalia 的小旅行社购买了单程票。代理人很友好,办事迅速,我们知道要拖着所有行李,所以我们选择了商务舱。提前做好交易,选择商务舱(两位乘客 160 欧元)似乎是我们在网上看到的最好的建议,我们很高兴我们这么做了。
结果火车上挤满了人。如果我们等到旅行当天才买票,我们会非常失望,不得不争先恐后地寻找其他旅行选择。
商务舱预订让我们可以进入马拉加火车站楼上的 Renfe 休息室。虽然房间很大,座位很舒适,但吃的和喝的东西不多。西边的大厅和东边的火车站台都清晰可见,但除此之外,墙上还贴着该场所赞助商的巨幅海报,其中包括一张主要捐赠者安东尼奥·班德拉斯 (Antonio Banderas) 的巨幅照片,他是马拉加本地人,目前居住于此并担任经理。
最后,我们拖着行李回到楼下,通过安检,就像去机场登机一样。我们有点担心行李超重,但没人说一句话,我们在火车站台附近的咖啡馆喝了一杯相对昂贵的咖啡。
登机通知来了,我们很快发现我们的座位在第二节车厢,在火车前面很远的地方,所以我们得拖着沉重的行李箱走一段路才能到达那里。我们不得不把行李抬进车厢,但幸运的是,里面有放行李的空间,我们很容易就找到了座位。
火车晚了一点——可能晚了五分钟,但坦率地说,我很惊讶我们居然能出发:前一天晚上,一列火车在马拉加以北约 40 公里处的同一条线路上脱轨,原因是安达卢西亚和瓦伦西亚遭遇了毁灭性的风暴。
此外,公告指出,由于信号问题,火车的行驶速度会比平时慢一点。同样,我怀疑这是风暴造成的。
然而,当我们经过那列火车脱轨的区域时,司机把油门踩到底,很快,我们的速度就接近 300 公里/小时(186 英里/小时)。
你感觉不到我们开得那么快。轨道像在玻璃湖上滑冰一样光滑。速度的唯一标志是乡村和头顶上从窗外呼啸而过的云朵。而且非常舒适。
到达目的地后,我们又回到了现实,然后被推入了马德里这座辉煌的疯人院。出租车的队伍似乎长得不可思议,但转眼间就过去了。不过,我们有足够的时间与周围的游客聊天,这很棒。
那时我觉得坐火车比坐飞机更人性化……