旅行
账户
Anne C
Fantastic 4 days! Info and tips to help others prepare
Paparoa Track的点评
点评：We walked Paparoa Smoke-ho to Punakaiki, staying at Ces Clark, Moonlight Tops and Pororari Huts en route, 15th-18th Nov 2023. We are two 50yo women, both with average walking fitness but not pack fit. By this we mean one of us walks her dog 45mins each day including some steep uphill, and has never done a multi day hike. The other walks 10-20km once a week with a day pack and has not multi day hiked since her 20’s. Neither of us did heavy pack training. We were each carrying around 12kg including the pack weight itself. We have written this to help others wondering whether they can do it / what to expect, as we found information on Paparoa track limited.
We booked our tickets successfully within seconds of the track season opening mid Jul then it was all sold out immediately for our dates. We met several people who had done the same but couldn’t get Ces Clark. However by the time we got to Ces Clark mid Nov only 10 people were booked. So what you could do if you can’t get Ces Clark straight away is book 2 nights at Moonlight Tops and then cancel 1 of them if Ces Clark becomes available - the others with us in Ces Clark had all booked within a month of being there.
Smoke-ho to Ces Clark
DOC brochure says 4-5 hours for this 10.3km section of the track. In total it took us 5 hours including a 45min stop for lunch at the 2nd historic hotel site and numerous photo stops. We managed this section no problems, with some pack fatigue and ‘ready to get there now’ setting in about 45mins from arrival. However at our fitness level we would have struggled if we had had to continue to Moonlight Tops hut. (A very fit family group who stayed with us at Moonlight Tops and who had walked there direct from Smoke-ho were sore and tired and had found the day quite long - though also glad they had pushed themselves, which I guess is the difference when you are really fit.)
The first 2 hours of the Smoke-ho to Ces Clark track to the 2nd historic hotel site was quite flat, even slightly descending in places. The climb to Ces Clark hut started beyond the hotel site and continued for the final 2 hours to Ces Clark, but it was a gentle ascent, not nearly as steep as we had anticipated from the brochure.
Even in fine weather we had several points in the final 2 hours where we got slightly wet feet from streams running over the track - I guess in rain the streams would be deeper and harder to pass without having to stand in the water.
Ces Clark hut
Ces Clark has 3 gas cookers with 2 elements each, a water billy, a couple of old pots and a battered fry pan. There is a wood fire with a drying rack above it on a pulley rope. Beds are wooden platforms on two walls of the hut, four on bottom and four on top on each. A couple of people found the hut on the cold side, but we had only 2 per platform (4 of the 10 booked were no shows) so perhaps with more people it would be warmer. Ces Clark has good cell reception but nowhere to charge phones.
Ces Clark to Moonlight Tops section
The DOC brochure stated 3 hours for this 9.7km section of the track. This was the only section that was a little longer and harder than we expected, and was a solid 3.5 hour walk for us in fine weather, with no stops.
We spent an extra half hour (so 4 hours total on this section) on the Croesus Knob side track, which was very steep and shingly - we stopped short of the final bit as didn’t feel safe as the wind started to pick up.
Moonlight Tops Hut
Moonlight Tops has four gas cookers with two elements each, two water billies, a few pots and a fry pan. There is a wood fire with a drying rack above it on a pulley rope and a couple of plastic clothes racks.
There are two separate bedrooms off the main room of the hut. One has 8 beds (2 beds along a platform bunk at the bottom and 2 along the top, on each side of the long narrow room); the other has 12 beds (6 beds on each of the top and bottom platforms which are against the back wall of a wide room).
There is also a separate cloak/entrance room, with drip grills for shoes and jackets, which can then be brought inside once drip dry. Food that needs to be kept cold can be left in the cloak room (this worked in Nov anyway).
Moonlight Tops was full when we were there and was plenty warm enough. This hut has limited cell reception in the window corner of the main room, and 4 phone-only USB charger points.
Moonlight Tops to Pororari section
The DOC brochure stated 5-7 hours for this 19.1km section of the track, which took us 5.5 hours including a half hour stop at the emergency shelter half way along. There is a toilet at the emergency shelter. We had light to moderate rain the whole way so perhaps there were less photo stops as we couldn’t see the views but the rain in the bush was stunning and we stopped several times for photos of waterfalls and tree/rock formations.
About 1.5hr from Moonlight Tops we saw the entrance to the Pike River track under construction, due to be completed Feb 2024.
Towards the end of this section there was a pretty big mud puddle from a very recent slip towards - prepare to get a bit muddy if walking after big rains.
Pororari Hut
Pororari hut is exactly the same layout and set up as Moonlight Tops. However there were less pots and pans - only 1 good pot, a small battered frypan and an old billy pot, plus the two water billies.
There are 4 phone-only USB charger points but absolutely no cell reception at Pororari hut.
Pororari to Pororari River Car Park section
The DOC brochure stated 4-5 hours for this 16km section of the track, which took us 4.5 hours, with the no meal stops but 4 loo stops (not sure what was happening that morning as hadn’t needed multiple loo stops on the other days!) and a lot more photo stops than on the previous sections.
Several shallow water passages to pass through on this section, almost unavoidable to get wet feet.
Other notes and tips
Our last day was a Saturday and whilst over the previous 3 days we had encountered only 1 mountain biker - who was having a break at Moonlight Tops - on this last day we had about 8 pass us coming from the other direction i.e. towards us, plus a lot of day hikers doing the same. Got startled by a biker on one occasion but never felt unsafe. However if you would like this section of the track to yourself and/or would like to avoid the bikers in general, suggest do the walk on weekdays, and in the same direction we did it - one of the DOC rangers told us that 95% of people do it in this direction, so you are unlikely to encounter any/many hikers coming towards you if you go with the 95% flow.
Both of us had good quality walking shoes, not boots, and neither of us experienced sore feet as some other reviewers have mentioned.
Final note is about is hiking poles, if you usually use them. We took them but because almost the entire track is rock/stone we felt the noise of poles on rock was spoiling the experience, so we stopped using them soon after we started and it was therefore a waste of weight to have carried them.
We booked our tickets successfully within seconds of the track season opening mid Jul then it was all sold out immediately for our dates. We met several people who had done the same but couldn’t get Ces Clark. However by the time we got to Ces Clark mid Nov only 10 people were booked. So what you could do if you can’t get Ces Clark straight away is book 2 nights at Moonlight Tops and then cancel 1 of them if Ces Clark becomes available - the others with us in Ces Clark had all booked within a month of being there.
Smoke-ho to Ces Clark
DOC brochure says 4-5 hours for this 10.3km section of the track. In total it took us 5 hours including a 45min stop for lunch at the 2nd historic hotel site and numerous photo stops. We managed this section no problems, with some pack fatigue and ‘ready to get there now’ setting in about 45mins from arrival. However at our fitness level we would have struggled if we had had to continue to Moonlight Tops hut. (A very fit family group who stayed with us at Moonlight Tops and who had walked there direct from Smoke-ho were sore and tired and had found the day quite long - though also glad they had pushed themselves, which I guess is the difference when you are really fit.)
The first 2 hours of the Smoke-ho to Ces Clark track to the 2nd historic hotel site was quite flat, even slightly descending in places. The climb to Ces Clark hut started beyond the hotel site and continued for the final 2 hours to Ces Clark, but it was a gentle ascent, not nearly as steep as we had anticipated from the brochure.
Even in fine weather we had several points in the final 2 hours where we got slightly wet feet from streams running over the track - I guess in rain the streams would be deeper and harder to pass without having to stand in the water.
Ces Clark hut
Ces Clark has 3 gas cookers with 2 elements each, a water billy, a couple of old pots and a battered fry pan. There is a wood fire with a drying rack above it on a pulley rope. Beds are wooden platforms on two walls of the hut, four on bottom and four on top on each. A couple of people found the hut on the cold side, but we had only 2 per platform (4 of the 10 booked were no shows) so perhaps with more people it would be warmer. Ces Clark has good cell reception but nowhere to charge phones.
Ces Clark to Moonlight Tops section
The DOC brochure stated 3 hours for this 9.7km section of the track. This was the only section that was a little longer and harder than we expected, and was a solid 3.5 hour walk for us in fine weather, with no stops.
We spent an extra half hour (so 4 hours total on this section) on the Croesus Knob side track, which was very steep and shingly - we stopped short of the final bit as didn’t feel safe as the wind started to pick up.
Moonlight Tops Hut
Moonlight Tops has four gas cookers with two elements each, two water billies, a few pots and a fry pan. There is a wood fire with a drying rack above it on a pulley rope and a couple of plastic clothes racks.
There are two separate bedrooms off the main room of the hut. One has 8 beds (2 beds along a platform bunk at the bottom and 2 along the top, on each side of the long narrow room); the other has 12 beds (6 beds on each of the top and bottom platforms which are against the back wall of a wide room).
There is also a separate cloak/entrance room, with drip grills for shoes and jackets, which can then be brought inside once drip dry. Food that needs to be kept cold can be left in the cloak room (this worked in Nov anyway).
Moonlight Tops was full when we were there and was plenty warm enough. This hut has limited cell reception in the window corner of the main room, and 4 phone-only USB charger points.
Moonlight Tops to Pororari section
The DOC brochure stated 5-7 hours for this 19.1km section of the track, which took us 5.5 hours including a half hour stop at the emergency shelter half way along. There is a toilet at the emergency shelter. We had light to moderate rain the whole way so perhaps there were less photo stops as we couldn’t see the views but the rain in the bush was stunning and we stopped several times for photos of waterfalls and tree/rock formations.
About 1.5hr from Moonlight Tops we saw the entrance to the Pike River track under construction, due to be completed Feb 2024.
Towards the end of this section there was a pretty big mud puddle from a very recent slip towards - prepare to get a bit muddy if walking after big rains.
Pororari Hut
Pororari hut is exactly the same layout and set up as Moonlight Tops. However there were less pots and pans - only 1 good pot, a small battered frypan and an old billy pot, plus the two water billies.
There are 4 phone-only USB charger points but absolutely no cell reception at Pororari hut.
Pororari to Pororari River Car Park section
The DOC brochure stated 4-5 hours for this 16km section of the track, which took us 4.5 hours, with the no meal stops but 4 loo stops (not sure what was happening that morning as hadn’t needed multiple loo stops on the other days!) and a lot more photo stops than on the previous sections.
Several shallow water passages to pass through on this section, almost unavoidable to get wet feet.
Other notes and tips
Our last day was a Saturday and whilst over the previous 3 days we had encountered only 1 mountain biker - who was having a break at Moonlight Tops - on this last day we had about 8 pass us coming from the other direction i.e. towards us, plus a lot of day hikers doing the same. Got startled by a biker on one occasion but never felt unsafe. However if you would like this section of the track to yourself and/or would like to avoid the bikers in general, suggest do the walk on weekdays, and in the same direction we did it - one of the DOC rangers told us that 95% of people do it in this direction, so you are unlikely to encounter any/many hikers coming towards you if you go with the 95% flow.
Both of us had good quality walking shoes, not boots, and neither of us experienced sore feet as some other reviewers have mentioned.
Final note is about is hiking poles, if you usually use them. We took them but because almost the entire track is rock/stone we felt the noise of poles on rock was spoiling the experience, so we stopped using them soon after we started and it was therefore a waste of weight to have carried them.
翻译：2023 年 11 月 15 日至 18 日，我们步行 Paparoa Smoke-ho 前往普纳凯基，途中入住 Ces Clark、Moonlight Tops 和 Pororari Huts。我们是两名 50 岁的女性，步行健康状况一般，但不适合打包。我们的意思是，我们中的一个人每天遛狗 45 分钟，其中包括一些陡峭的上坡，并且从未进行过多日徒步旅行。另一位则每周携带日用包步行 10-20 公里，自 20 多岁以来就没有进行过多日徒步旅行。我们俩都没有进行过负重训练。我们每人携带大约 12 公斤，包括背包本身的重量。我们写这篇文章是为了帮助其他人想知道他们是否可以做到/期待什么，因为我们发现有关帕帕罗阿赛道的信息有限。
我们在七月中旬田径赛季开幕后几秒钟内就成功预订了门票，然后我们的日期立即全部售罄。我们遇到了几个做了同样事情但无法联系到塞斯·克拉克的人。然而，当我们 11 月中旬到达 Ces Clark 时，只有 10 人被预订。因此，如果您无法立即联系 Ces Clark，您可以在 Moonlight Tops 预订 2 晚，然后在 Ces Clark 有空房时取消其中一晚 - 我们在 Ces Clark 的其他人都在入住后一个月内预订了。
斯莫克霍对塞斯·克拉克
DOC 手册称这段 10.3 公里长的赛道需要 4-5 小时。我们总共花了 5 个小时，其中包括在第二个历史酒店遗址停留 45 分钟吃午餐以及多次拍照。我们顺利地度过了这一段路，虽然有些背包疲劳，但在抵达后大约 45 分钟内就已经做好了“准备到达那里”的设置。然而，以我们的健康水平，如果我们必须继续前往月光顶小屋，我们会很挣扎。 （一个非常健康的家庭团体和我们一起住在月光之巅，从斯莫克霍直接步行到那里，他们又痛又累，发现这一天很长——尽管也很高兴他们推动了自己，我想这就是区别你真的很适合。）
从斯莫克霍 (Smoke-ho) 到塞斯克拉克 (Ces Clark) 路线到第二个历史悠久的酒店遗址的前 2 个小时非常平坦，甚至有些地方略有下降。通往塞斯克拉克小屋的攀登始于酒店外，并在最后 2 小时内继续到达塞斯克拉克，但这是一个平缓的上升过程，并不像我们在宣传册上预期的那么陡峭。
即使天气晴朗，我们在最后 2 小时内也有几个地方，我们的脚被流过赛道的溪流弄湿了——我想在雨中，溪流会更深，如果不站在水中就更难通过。
塞斯·克拉克小屋
Ces Clark 有 3 个燃气灶，每个燃气灶有 2 个元件，还有一个水壶、几个旧锅和一个破旧的煎锅。有一个柴火，上面有一个滑轮绳上的晾衣架。床是木平台，位于小屋的两堵墙上，每层底部有四张床，顶部有四张床。有几个人发现小屋偏冷，但我们每个平台只有 2 个（预订的 10 个中的 4 个没有演出），所以也许人多的话会更暖和。塞斯·克拉克（Ces Clark）的手机信号良好，但没有地方可以给手机充电。
Ces Clark 至 Moonlight Tops 部分
DOC 手册规定这段 9.7 公里的赛道需要 3 小时。这是唯一比我们预想的更长、更难的路段，在天气晴朗的情况下，我们足足走了 3.5 个小时，中间不停歇。
我们在 Croesus Knob 侧道上多花了半个小时（所以这一段总共花了 4 个小时），这条路非常陡峭，而且很陡——我们在最后一点之前停了下来，因为风开始刮起来，感觉不安全。
月光顶小屋
Moonlight Tops 有四个燃气灶，每个燃气灶有两个元件、两个热水器、几个锅和一个煎锅。有一个木火，上面有一个带滑轮绳的晾衣架和几个塑料衣架。
小屋主房间外有两间独立的卧室。其中一间有 8 张床（2 张床位于底部的平台铺位，2 张床位于顶部，位于狭长房间的每一侧）；另一个有12张床（顶部和底部平台各有6张床，靠着宽敞房间的后墙）。
还有一个单独的衣帽间/入口室，配有用于放置鞋子和夹克的滴水架，滴干后即可将其带入室内。需要冷藏的食物可以留在衣帽间（无论如何，这在11月有效）。
我们在那里的时候月光上衣已经满了而且足够温暖。这间小屋的主房间窗角的手机信号接收有限，并有 4 个手机专用 USB 充电点。
月光上衣至 Pororari 部分
DOC 手册上标明这段 19.1 公里长的路段需要 5-7 小时，而我们花了 5.5 小时，其中包括中途在紧急避难所停留的半小时。紧急避难所设有厕所。我们一路上都下着小到中雨，所以也许停下来拍照的次数较少，因为我们看不到风景，但灌木丛中的雨令人惊叹，我们多次停下来拍摄瀑布和树木/岩层的照片。
从 Moonlight Tops 出发大约 1.5 小时，我们看到正在建设中的派克河赛道入口， 预计于 2024 年 2 月完成。
在这一段快结束时，有一个相当大的泥坑，是最近一次滑倒造成的——如果在大雨后行走，准备好变得有点泥泞。
波罗拉里小屋
Pororari 小屋的布局和设置与 Moonlight Tops 完全相同。然而，锅碗瓢盆较少——只有一个好锅、一个破旧的小煎锅和一个旧比利锅，再加上两个水比利锅。
Pororari 小屋有 4 个仅供手机使用的 USB 充电点，但绝对没有手机信号。
波罗拉里 (Pororari) 至波罗拉里河停车场 (Pororari River Car Park) 路段
DOC 手册上说这段 16 公里长的路段需要 4-5 小时，我们花了 4.5 小时，没有进餐，但有 4 个上厕所的地方（不确定那天早上发生了什么，因为其他地方不需要多个上厕所的地方）天！）并且比前面的部分有更多的拍照停留。
这一段要经过几条浅水通道，几乎难免会湿脚。
其他注意事项和提示
我们的最后一天是星期六，而在过去的 3 天里，我们只遇到了 1 名山地自行车手 - 他们在月光之巅休息 - 在最后一天，我们大约有 8 名山地自行车手从另一个方向（即朝向我们）经过我们，加上很多一日徒步旅行者也这样做。有一次被一名骑自行车的人吓了一跳，但从未感到不安全。然而，如果您想独享这一段赛道和/或想避开一般骑自行车的人，建议您在工作日步行，并且方向与我们相同 - 一位 DOC 护林员告诉我们，95%的人朝这个方向走，所以如果您按照 95% 的流量走，您不太可能遇到任何/许多徒步旅行者朝您走来。
我们俩都穿着质量很好的步行鞋，而不是靴子，而且我们俩都没有像其他评论家提到的那样经历过脚痛。
最后要注意的是登山杖（如果您经常使用的话）。我们带着它们，但因为几乎整个轨道都是岩石/石头，我们觉得岩石上的杆子发出的噪音破坏了体验，所以我们开始后不久就停止使用它们，因此携带它们是浪费重量。
我们在七月中旬田径赛季开幕后几秒钟内就成功预订了门票，然后我们的日期立即全部售罄。我们遇到了几个做了同样事情但无法联系到塞斯·克拉克的人。然而，当我们 11 月中旬到达 Ces Clark 时，只有 10 人被预订。因此，如果您无法立即联系 Ces Clark，您可以在 Moonlight Tops 预订 2 晚，然后在 Ces Clark 有空房时取消其中一晚 - 我们在 Ces Clark 的其他人都在入住后一个月内预订了。
斯莫克霍对塞斯·克拉克
DOC 手册称这段 10.3 公里长的赛道需要 4-5 小时。我们总共花了 5 个小时，其中包括在第二个历史酒店遗址停留 45 分钟吃午餐以及多次拍照。我们顺利地度过了这一段路，虽然有些背包疲劳，但在抵达后大约 45 分钟内就已经做好了“准备到达那里”的设置。然而，以我们的健康水平，如果我们必须继续前往月光顶小屋，我们会很挣扎。 （一个非常健康的家庭团体和我们一起住在月光之巅，从斯莫克霍直接步行到那里，他们又痛又累，发现这一天很长——尽管也很高兴他们推动了自己，我想这就是区别你真的很适合。）
从斯莫克霍 (Smoke-ho) 到塞斯克拉克 (Ces Clark) 路线到第二个历史悠久的酒店遗址的前 2 个小时非常平坦，甚至有些地方略有下降。通往塞斯克拉克小屋的攀登始于酒店外，并在最后 2 小时内继续到达塞斯克拉克，但这是一个平缓的上升过程，并不像我们在宣传册上预期的那么陡峭。
即使天气晴朗，我们在最后 2 小时内也有几个地方，我们的脚被流过赛道的溪流弄湿了——我想在雨中，溪流会更深，如果不站在水中就更难通过。
塞斯·克拉克小屋
Ces Clark 有 3 个燃气灶，每个燃气灶有 2 个元件，还有一个水壶、几个旧锅和一个破旧的煎锅。有一个柴火，上面有一个滑轮绳上的晾衣架。床是木平台，位于小屋的两堵墙上，每层底部有四张床，顶部有四张床。有几个人发现小屋偏冷，但我们每个平台只有 2 个（预订的 10 个中的 4 个没有演出），所以也许人多的话会更暖和。塞斯·克拉克（Ces Clark）的手机信号良好，但没有地方可以给手机充电。
Ces Clark 至 Moonlight Tops 部分
DOC 手册规定这段 9.7 公里的赛道需要 3 小时。这是唯一比我们预想的更长、更难的路段，在天气晴朗的情况下，我们足足走了 3.5 个小时，中间不停歇。
我们在 Croesus Knob 侧道上多花了半个小时（所以这一段总共花了 4 个小时），这条路非常陡峭，而且很陡——我们在最后一点之前停了下来，因为风开始刮起来，感觉不安全。
月光顶小屋
Moonlight Tops 有四个燃气灶，每个燃气灶有两个元件、两个热水器、几个锅和一个煎锅。有一个木火，上面有一个带滑轮绳的晾衣架和几个塑料衣架。
小屋主房间外有两间独立的卧室。其中一间有 8 张床（2 张床位于底部的平台铺位，2 张床位于顶部，位于狭长房间的每一侧）；另一个有12张床（顶部和底部平台各有6张床，靠着宽敞房间的后墙）。
还有一个单独的衣帽间/入口室，配有用于放置鞋子和夹克的滴水架，滴干后即可将其带入室内。需要冷藏的食物可以留在衣帽间（无论如何，这在11月有效）。
我们在那里的时候月光上衣已经满了而且足够温暖。这间小屋的主房间窗角的手机信号接收有限，并有 4 个手机专用 USB 充电点。
月光上衣至 Pororari 部分
DOC 手册上标明这段 19.1 公里长的路段需要 5-7 小时，而我们花了 5.5 小时，其中包括中途在紧急避难所停留的半小时。紧急避难所设有厕所。我们一路上都下着小到中雨，所以也许停下来拍照的次数较少，因为我们看不到风景，但灌木丛中的雨令人惊叹，我们多次停下来拍摄瀑布和树木/岩层的照片。
从 Moonlight Tops 出发大约 1.5 小时，我们看到正在建设中的派克河赛道入口， 预计于 2024 年 2 月完成。
在这一段快结束时，有一个相当大的泥坑，是最近一次滑倒造成的——如果在大雨后行走，准备好变得有点泥泞。
波罗拉里小屋
Pororari 小屋的布局和设置与 Moonlight Tops 完全相同。然而，锅碗瓢盆较少——只有一个好锅、一个破旧的小煎锅和一个旧比利锅，再加上两个水比利锅。
Pororari 小屋有 4 个仅供手机使用的 USB 充电点，但绝对没有手机信号。
波罗拉里 (Pororari) 至波罗拉里河停车场 (Pororari River Car Park) 路段
DOC 手册上说这段 16 公里长的路段需要 4-5 小时，我们花了 4.5 小时，没有进餐，但有 4 个上厕所的地方（不确定那天早上发生了什么，因为其他地方不需要多个上厕所的地方）天！）并且比前面的部分有更多的拍照停留。
这一段要经过几条浅水通道，几乎难免会湿脚。
其他注意事项和提示
我们的最后一天是星期六，而在过去的 3 天里，我们只遇到了 1 名山地自行车手 - 他们在月光之巅休息 - 在最后一天，我们大约有 8 名山地自行车手从另一个方向（即朝向我们）经过我们，加上很多一日徒步旅行者也这样做。有一次被一名骑自行车的人吓了一跳，但从未感到不安全。然而，如果您想独享这一段赛道和/或想避开一般骑自行车的人，建议您在工作日步行，并且方向与我们相同 - 一位 DOC 护林员告诉我们，95%的人朝这个方向走，所以如果您按照 95% 的流量走，您不太可能遇到任何/许多徒步旅行者朝您走来。
我们俩都穿着质量很好的步行鞋，而不是靴子，而且我们俩都没有像其他评论家提到的那样经历过脚痛。
最后要注意的是登山杖（如果您经常使用的话）。我们带着它们，但因为几乎整个轨道都是岩石/石头，我们觉得岩石上的杆子发出的噪音破坏了体验，所以我们开始后不久就停止使用它们，因此携带它们是浪费重量。
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