点评:So when booking our tour of Thailand we knew we wanted to visit an elephant sanctuary...but which one. This is where the conversation of tourism vs ethics vs welfare really starts to get into a debate.
We looked through a variety of different options before deciding to opt for Chiang Mai Elephant Friends. With 7 elephants that had been rescued from domestic use onsite that have since had a number of babies meant there are 12 elephants on the site at the moment.
The only 'controversial' thing about the site is that the elephants are kept in a certain location over night as opposed to being free roaming. This is due to the proximity of the main road and the availability of large scale "enclosure style" fences that the other sites with 24/7 free roaming have. It is evident that the team here are doing everything they can to care for the elephants and the elephants themselves are happy and playful.
Full Day Elephant Care Experience with Bamboo Rafting and Waterfall Lunch
We opted to do the Full day experience with rafting and lunch which meant the team were happy to pick us up from our hotel in central Chiang Mai. There was a little mixup with the driver which meant we arrived on site 30 minutes later than intended but this wasn't an issue and the team managed efficiently around it. Once set we met with our guide for the day, Nova who was fantastic the entire experience.
As we also opted to hire one of the wooden bungalows at the site for the night we left our small cabin bags with reception on arrival before meeting with the Mahout and guide we were with for the day. There were 4 of us in our group for the day consisting of 2 couples which was a great small group that guaranteed ample opportunities to engage and learn.
Our first activity was a meet and greet to feed the elephants and then a walk through the jungle with them. We had 3 elephants with us for the experience, Jong Po, Mae Noi and daughter Sen Dee. It was evident quickly that these gentle giants were oversized puppies, very gently yet very playful. We were given a note of caution though as 2 year old Sen Dee didn't have quite the same manners as the older elephants, if there was somewhere she wanted to go...nothing was going to stop her, so we needed eyes in the backs of our heads around her.
Walking through the jungle with the elephants is incredible, the elephants just in and out of the bushes, doing their own thing as we clambered to keep up - it was obvious who was built for the terrain! If you are considering it, make sure to have some good trainers or walking shoes on as it is up and down, plenty of tree roots and other things to watch out for, flip flops wouldn't cut it! The walk lasted about 45 minutes which in near on 40degree heat with high humidity was more than enough. Just before we reached the end of the walk, the 3 elephants seemed to disappear off into the distance before we heard a splash. They'd raced ahead to the river to jump in and cool off. As we caught up we were advised we had the opportunity to get in the water with them and bathe them should we want to. The elephants were more than happily playing in the water on their own before we got there and were so after we left. It is upto you if you get in to cool off and throw a little water around with them - just watch out if you do as they know how to squirt it back!
Once we'd finished with the elephants and they'd taken themselves off to graze it was our turn to jump into the back of a truck and head to the close by Mae Wang waterfall. On arrival we had a small walk down hill to the waterfall but once arrived, were presented with a beautiful waterfall and a home cooked lunch - Chicken Pad Thai. At the waterfall there is a little local shop across the waterfall via a slightly sketchy bamboo bridge (all part of the experience!) selling chilled soft drinks, Chang etc. One word of caution though, be sure to check where you sit when visiting the waterfall, we had one slightly dubious experience with a small scorpion - thankfully not deadly but would have ruined the day if we'd have sat on it!
Bamboo Rafting
So...the bamboo rafting. As the couple in our group had done this first thing before we arrived we were on our own for this. They'd explained how your lower half gets a little wet but the experience is very relaxed and peaceful, floating down the river as someone guides you down. It sounded fantastic and the perfect way to round out the day. But then it happened....SONGKRAN!!! As it was the the week of Thai New Year, they love to get started early up in Chiang Mai turning a 3 day holiday into a week. Locals had descended down to the river with music and beers and were throwing water around here there and everywhere in their symbolic purification known to the world as Songkran. Better yet, they didn't care that we weren't Thai - we were being soaked just as much as the rest of the locals, being wished a Happy Songkran and getting just as involved. An experience you'll only get a few days a year but one to never forget!
Overnight Stay in Bungalow
As mentioned earlier we decided to stay the night in an overnight bungalow to top our experience off, watching the elephants wander around the site. We had bungalow 23 right at the top of the hill with close proximity to the restaurant. The view was truly incredible, over the valley and looking down on the river. The rooms themselves are in essence log cabins. There are gaps between the logs and yes little ants and bugs can get in. The best way to think of the experience is glamping with air conditioning. Along with the air conditioning came a fully equipped bathroom and an electric fly swatter - great fun in the night time given it had a neon purple glow - almost like a game! The bed was firm but still comfortable and of the evening there is some lights on sight that remain on so be sure to pack an eyemask if you prefer it to be dark to sleep - oh and some ear buds as the cicadas are LOUD in the jungle! As the full day experience included transfers the team were happy to complete our drop off back to Chiang Mai the following morning after breakfast making it super easy.
The Restaurant
On site they have a restaurant that is open in the evening for dinner as well as a buffet breakfast in the morning. It has to be said that we ate some of the BEST food we had in Thailand whilst at Chiang Mai Elephant Friends. Having not had too much experience with Thai food before visiting the country we were eager to try as much as we could and didn't hold back. We had the Massaman curry, Chicken Kao Soi, Stir fried chicken with cashew nuts and a portion of Thai jasmine rice. On arrival to the restaurant however we met up with the American couple who did the experience with us, who joined us for dinner and drinks, opting for a different variety of dishes meaning we had a whole spread of food to try. It was all impeccable and not a drop was left! We sat with a bottle of Hong Thong and Sangsom until the light from the setting sun had dropped and the staff were starting to clear up. The price for such an incredible spread of food, a few beers and a small bottle of Sangsom (35cl) - £20!!! Value you just can't match.
The whole experience from booking with them nearly a year ago through to visiting and experiencing everything they're doing to care for the elephants but also educate people about the species and the need to look after them was phenomenal. We couldn't have asked for a better stay.
翻译:所以,在预订泰国之旅时,我们就知道想去大象保护区……但究竟该去哪个呢?这正是旅游、伦理与福利之间真正引发争论的地方。
我们考察了各种不同的选择,最终决定选择清迈大象之友。这里已有7头从家养大象中解救出来的大象,它们后来又生下了几只幼象,这意味着目前这里共有12头大象。
这里唯一“有争议”的地方是,大象晚上会被关在某个固定的地方,而不是自由放养。这是因为这里靠近主干道,而且有大型“围栏式”围栏,而其他提供全天候自由放养的保护区都有。显然,这里的团队正在竭尽全力照顾大象,大象们也快乐又活泼。
全天大象护理体验,含竹筏漂流和瀑布午餐
我们选择了全天体验,包括漂流和午餐,这意味着团队很乐意从我们位于清迈市中心的酒店接我们。司机出了点小差错,导致我们比预计时间晚了30分钟到达目的地,但这并没有造成任何问题,团队高效地解决了问题。安顿好后,我们与当天的导游Nova见面,她在整个体验过程中都表现得非常出色。
由于我们还选择在营地租一间木屋过夜,所以我们抵达后将小行李箱寄存在接待处,然后与当天的驯象师和导游会面。我们当天的团队一共4人,包括两对夫妇,这是一个很棒的小团队,保证了充足的参与和学习机会。
我们的第一个活动是与大象见面并喂食,然后与它们一起穿越丛林。我们这次体验带了三头大象,分别是Jong Po、Mae Noi和女儿Sen Dee。很快我们就发现,这些温顺的“大家伙”其实是体型偏大的幼象,温顺却又非常顽皮。不过,我们还是需要注意,因为两岁的Sen Dee不像其他大象那样彬彬有礼。如果她想去某个地方……什么也拦不住她,所以我们需要有人在她身后监视她。
和大象一起穿越丛林真是太棒了,大象们在灌木丛中进进出出,各行其是,而我们则努力跟上它们——很明显,谁更适合这种地形!如果你正在考虑,一定要穿上一双舒适的运动鞋或步行鞋,因为这里上下起伏,有很多树根和其他需要注意的地方,人字拖可不行!徒步大约持续了45分钟,在接近40度的高温和高湿度的环境下,这已经足够了。就在我们快走到尽头时,三头大象似乎消失在远方,然后我们听到了扑通一声。它们跑到河边,准备跳进水里乘凉。我们追上去后,他们告诉我们,如果愿意,可以和它们一起下水给它们洗澡。在我们到达之前,大象们就已经在水里玩得非常开心了,我们离开之后也是如此。至于是否要下水和它们一起泼水消暑,就看你自己了——不过要小心,它们知道怎么把水喷回去!
等我们和大象们玩够了,它们也跑去吃草了,就轮到我们跳上卡车,前往附近的湄旺瀑布了。到达后,我们沿着山坡走了一小段路才到达瀑布。到达瀑布后,我们欣赏了美丽的瀑布,并享用了一顿家常午餐——泰式鸡肉炒河粉。瀑布对面有一家当地小店,需要通过一座略显简陋的竹桥(这也是体验的一部分!)才能到达。店里出售冰镇软饮、象牌(Chang)等。不过需要注意的是,参观瀑布时一定要注意座位。我们曾经有一次被一只小蝎子惊到,有点吓人——幸好没致命,但如果我们坐在上面,那一天的体验就毁了!
竹筏漂流
所以……竹筏漂流。我们团里的那对夫妇在我们到达之前就体验过了,所以我们这次是独自一人。他们解释过下半身会有点湿,但这种体验非常放松祥和,有人引导你顺流而下。听起来很棒,也是结束一天的完美方式。但接下来发生了……宋干节!!!因为当时正值泰国新年,清迈的人们喜欢早早开始,把三天的假期变成一周。当地人在音乐和啤酒的伴奏下,纷纷来到河边,四处泼水,庆祝他们举世闻名的宋干节,象征着他们的净化仪式。更妙的是,他们根本不在乎我们不是泰国人——我们和其他当地人一样,浑身湿透,也一样被祝福宋干节快乐,参与其中。一年只有几天,但却是永生难忘的体验!
在平房过夜
正如前面提到的,我们决定在平房过夜,让我们的体验更加完美,看着大象在营地里漫步。我们住在山顶的23号平房,离餐厅很近。景色美得令人难以置信,可以俯瞰山谷和河流。房间本身就是小木屋。木头之间有缝隙,小蚂蚁和虫子很容易钻进来。想象一下这种体验,就像在有空调的豪华露营。除了空调,这里还配备了设施齐全的浴室和电动苍蝇拍——晚上玩起来非常有趣,因为它会发出霓虹紫色的光芒——就像一场游戏!床很结实,但仍然很舒服。晚上,视野里会有一些灯亮着,所以如果你喜欢在黑暗中睡觉,一定要带上眼罩——哦,对了,还有耳塞,因为丛林里的蝉鸣声很吵!由于全天体验包含接送服务,团队很乐意在第二天早餐后就把我们送回清迈,这真是太方便了。
餐厅
现场有一家餐厅,晚上供应晚餐,早上供应自助早餐。不得不说,在清迈大象之友,我们吃到了在泰国吃过的一些最棒的美食。在来泰国之前,我们对泰国菜的了解并不多,所以我们迫不及待地想尽可能多地尝试,而且没有丝毫犹豫。我们点了玛莎曼咖喱、鸡肉烤面、腰果炒鸡和一份泰国茉莉香米。然而,到达餐厅后,我们遇到了和我们一起体验的那对美国夫妇,他们和我们一起吃了晚餐,喝了饮料,点了不同的菜品,这意味着我们可以品尝到琳琅满目的美食。一切都无可挑剔,一点儿也不剩!我们坐在那里,喝着一瓶 Hong Thong 和 Sangsom 葡萄酒,直到夕阳西下,工作人员开始收拾东西。如此丰盛的美食、几瓶啤酒和一小瓶 Sangsom 葡萄酒(350毫升),价格竟然只有20英镑!!!物超所值,无与伦比。
从近一年前预订这家酒店,到参观并体验他们为保护大象所做的一切,以及向人们普及大象知识和保护大象的重要性,整个体验都非常棒。我们再也找不到比这更好的住宿体验了。