点评:Myself, my brother, and my cousin had the privilege of joining Jorge and Wildcat Expeditions in Puma land (Refugio Laguna Amarga). We are nature enthusiasts and are all passionate, but amateur, photographers.
My brother did extensive research into the various tour and guide operators in and around Torres Del Paine and ultimately identified Jorge and Wildcat Expeditions as the premier option (if you haven't looked at it already, it's worth looking at his instagram @wildcat_expeditions just to see the quality of his sightings).
Jorge exceeded our expectations and I could not recommend him and Wildcat Expeditions more emphatically.
We flew into Punta Arenas (although, if the scheduling and flights work out I would maybe look at flying in and out of Puerto Natales as it's a few hours shorter on the drive to the actual park where you will be puma tracking). Jorge arranged transport to and from Punta Arenas and all lodging and accommodations during our stay, handled my Mauri (our guide throughout the safari).
One thing we enjoyed about Jorge and Mauri was there general approach to the entire trip. The first evening we sat down with them and we discussed what to expect and the rules of the trip. The main element that they focus on (and is something that is very important to me), is carrying yourself with respect. In particular, respecting the pumas themselves, not being overly intrusive or disruptive, but also respecting other visitors or groups and the ecosystem as a whole.
This experience is completely unique because you are able to integrate with nature in a natural way -- and that is an incredibly delicate ecosystem to maintain. Without people like Jorge, as conscientious stewards of that delicate balance it can quickly become overrun, feeling more like a domesticated nature reserve or zoo than a natural habitat. Jorge is very passionate about maintaining this balance, something that I think is not only critical for wellbeing of the ecosystem but also means you get a more fulfilling experience, as Jorge helps make sure you can naturally integrate into the environment and that you don't create an artificial fourth wall.
Jorge will be your tracker, going throughout the park and radioing to the group when he has identified pumas or anything else of interest. You will have a guide (that drives your 4x4 and is with you at all times), from my understanding there are several that Jorge works with and all are excellent. We had Mauri, who was an absolute pleasure -- extremely knowledgeable, funny, and thoughtful. At times throughout the day Jorge might join the group, but he is primarily there to help make sure you are getting puma sightings.
In this respect he has no equals. From our research and our personal experience, there are no other trackers that are as qualified as Jorge. He is a trained biologist, with years of experience working with and tracking large cats that gives him an ability to intuitively know where the pumas are likely to be and what they are likely to be doing at any given time. He also has an uncanny eye for detail that allows him to identify the slightest irregularities on a horizon line or mountainside from kilometers away (on multiple occasions he identified tiny dots, smaller than a grain of sand, across the park that turned out to be pumas).
Without a doubt, the quality of your tracker, and the temperament of your guide will be the most important variables in your experience. I can say wholeheartedly that Jorge is the most talented tracker available, and that he only works with a roster of guides (including Mauri, who we worked with) that are the best in the business.
We stayed at Hotel Estancia El Ovejero, a very comfortable hotel with accommodating stuff and excellent food. Each morning we would wake up and have breakfast with Jorge and Mauri, with Jorge leaving the hotel about 20-30 minutes before us to begin scouting for Pumas. Mauri and the three of us would leave around 7:45 am to drive to Refugio Laguna Amarga. Some days Jorge would have already identified a puma before we even arrived, and other days we would scout on our own until either Jorge or we came across a puma sighting.
We were lucky enough to see pumas, up close and personal, on every day of our safari. More often than not our day would be tracking pumas in the early morning with a sighting before 9 or 10 am. We would then stay with that puma for the duration of the day (sometimes moving to a different puma if Jorge had found something interesting going on in another area of the park), but resting with them and observing them during the middle of the day when they tend to slow down and rest. We would then walk with them in the late afternoon / evening, as their activity would increase as the sun began to go down.
It is very difficult to articulate what an amazing experience it is being on the physical ground inside the intimate sphere of a wild animal that large, powerful and beautiful. We had the pleasure of taking some once-in-a-lifetime photographs, but even these do not do the experience justice.
We had such an amazing experience that we plan on returning again in the next few years (something we rarely do on our travels!) and I could not recommend Jorge and Wildcat Expeditions more thoroughly to anyone considering a puma experience in Patagonia.
翻译:我、我的兄弟和我的表弟有幸加入了 Jorge 和 Wildcat Expeditions 在美洲狮之地 (Refugio Laguna Amarga) 的探险之旅。我们都是自然爱好者,都是充满热情的业余摄影师。
我的兄弟对托雷斯德尔潘恩及其周边地区的各种旅游和导游运营商进行了广泛的研究,最终确定 Jorge 和 Wildcat Expeditions 是首选(如果您还没有看过,可以看看他的 Instagram @wildcat_expeditions,看看他的目击质量)。
Jorge 超出了我们的预期,我强烈推荐他和 Wildcat Expeditions。
我们飞往蓬塔阿雷纳斯(不过,如果时间安排和航班安排得当,我可能会考虑从纳塔莱斯港起飞和降落,因为开车到您将要追踪美洲狮的实际公园要短几个小时)。 Jorge 安排了往返蓬塔阿雷纳斯的交通以及我们逗留期间的所有住宿和住宿,并负责我的 Mauri(整个游猎之旅的导游)。
我们喜欢 Jorge 和 Mauri 的一点是他们对整个旅行的总体态度。第一天晚上,我们和他们坐下来,讨论了旅行的期望和规则。他们关注的主要因素(对我来说非常重要)是尊重自己。特别是尊重美洲狮本身,不要过分打扰或破坏,也要尊重其他游客或团体以及整个生态系统。
这种体验非常独特,因为您可以以自然的方式融入大自然——这是一个非常微妙的生态系统,需要维护。如果没有像 Jorge 这样的人,作为这种微妙平衡的尽职尽责的管理者,它很快就会变得不堪重负,感觉更像是一个驯养的自然保护区或动物园,而不是自然栖息地。 Jorge 非常热衷于保持这种平衡,我认为这不仅对生态系统的健康至关重要,而且意味着您可以获得更充实的体验,因为 Jorge 会帮助您自然地融入环境,而不会制造出人为的第四堵墙。
Jorge 将成为您的追踪者,走遍整个公园,并在发现美洲狮或其他任何有趣事物时通过无线电向团队发送信息。您将有一名导游(驾驶您的四轮驱动车并随时陪伴您),据我所知,Jorge 曾与几位导游合作,他们都非常出色。我们有 Mauri,他绝对令人愉快——知识渊博、风趣、体贴。Jorge 可能会在一天中的某些时候加入团队,但他主要是为了帮助您看到美洲狮。
在这方面,他无与伦比。根据我们的研究和个人经验,没有其他追踪者能像 Jorge 一样称职。他是一位训练有素的生物学家,拥有多年与大型猫科动物打交道和追踪它们的经验,这使他能够凭直觉知道美洲狮可能在哪里以及它们在任何特定时间可能做什么。他还对细节有着敏锐的洞察力,这使他能够从几公里外识别出地平线或山腰上最细微的不规则之处(有多次,他识别出公园对面比一粒沙子还小的微小点,这些点原来是美洲狮)。
毫无疑问,追踪器的质量和向导的脾气将是您体验中最重要的变量。我可以全心全意地说,豪尔赫是最有才华的追踪器,他只与业内最优秀的向导合作(包括与我们合作的毛里)。
我们住在 Hotel Estancia El Ovejero,这是一家非常舒适的酒店,设施齐全,食物美味。每天早上,我们都会和 Jorge 和 Mauri 一起起床吃早餐,Jorge 比我们早 20-30 分钟离开酒店,开始寻找美洲狮。Mauri 和我们三人会在早上 7:45 左右出发,开车前往 Refugio Laguna Amarga。有些日子,Jorge 甚至在我们到达之前就已经发现了美洲狮,而其他日子,我们会自己寻找,直到 Jorge 或我们遇到美洲狮的踪迹。
我们很幸运,在游猎的每一天都能近距离亲眼看到美洲狮。我们通常会在清晨追踪美洲狮,并在上午 9 点或 10 点之前看到美洲狮。然后,我们会整天和那只美洲狮待在一起(如果 Jorge 在公园的另一个区域发现了有趣的事情,有时会转移到另一只美洲狮),但会在中午与它们一起休息并观察它们,因为中午它们往往会放慢速度并休息。然后,我们会在傍晚/傍晚和它们一起散步,因为随着太阳开始下山,它们的活动会变得更加活跃。
很难用语言描述在如此巨大、强大和美丽的野生动物的亲密环境中,在地面上是一种多么奇妙的体验。我们很高兴拍了一些千载难逢的照片,但即使这些照片也无法体现这次经历的美好。
我们拥有如此美妙的体验,我们计划在未来几年再次回来(这是我们在旅行中很少做的事情!),对于任何想要在巴塔哥尼亚体验美洲狮的人,我强烈推荐 Jorge 和 Wildcat Expeditions。