点评:... but do expect vast semi-arid Karoo landscapes, spectacular mountain ranges, rugged passes, exceptional stargazing, and a silence so profound that the only sound you may hear at night is the distant call of a hyena.
Equally, don’t expect mobile phone coverage—there isn’t any. Nor will you find crowds of tourists, fuel stations, restaurants, or shops. The nearest store is about 110 km away over demanding gravel roads. Firewood is available from the reception office, however, where staff can apparently also assist with tyre punctures.
We stayed in one of the solar-powered cottages at Elandsberg Wilderness Camp. Ours was spacious and comfortable, with a well-equipped kitchen featuring a two-burner gas hob and microwave, a comfortable double bed with plenty of warm blankets, a gas-heated shower, and a plunge pool—an inviting luxury during the scorching summer months when temperatures regularly exceed 40°C (104°F). We visited in winter and were rewarded with carpets of wildflowers stretching from horizon to horizon. (One small tip: if you enjoy reading in bed, bring a clip-on LED reading light, as the solar-powered lighting is quite modest.)
The five- to six-hour drive from Cape Town is an adventure in itself. Expect seemingly endless corrugated gravel roads, many of them in poor condition. Drive cautiously—80 km/h should be regarded as the upper limit—and carry at least one spare tyre and a couple of tyre repair aerosol cans. Fortunately, despite covering hundreds of dusty kilometres, we escaped without a single puncture.
In essence, Tankwa is unlike any other park in the SANParks portfolio. It offers breathtaking landscapes and, if you’re fortunate, sightings of springbok, gemsbok, Cape mountain zebra, ostriches, and a variety of other wildlife, together with more than 180 recorded bird species. Above all, it is a place of immense solitude, where the silence is profound and the stargazing ranks among the finest you’ll experience anywhere.
翻译:……不过,你可以期待看到广袤的半干旱卡鲁地带、壮观的山脉、崎岖的山路,以及绝佳的观星条件。那里的寂静程度超乎想象——夜晚你能听到的唯一声音,或许只有远处鬣狗的嚎叫。
同样,这里也没有手机信号,完全无法使用移动电话。你也找不到成群的游客、加油站、餐馆或商店。最近的商店位于约110公里外,需要沿着路况不佳的碎石路才能到达。不过,接待处可提供木柴。工作人员显然也能帮助处理轮胎漏气的情况。
我们入住的是埃兰兹伯格荒野营地中采用太阳能供电的小木屋。我们的房间宽敞又舒适:厨房设备齐全,配有双炉头燃气灶和微波炉;有一张舒适的双人床,上面铺着许多温暖的毛毯;还有燃气加热淋浴设施以及一个小型泳池——在夏季气温经常超过40摄氏度(104华氏度)的酷热时节,这些设施真是令人心旷神怡的享受啊。我们在冬季前往,有幸目睹了从地平线一端绵延到另一端的野花地毯。(一个小提示:如果你喜欢在床上阅读,不妨带上一个可夹式的LED阅读灯,因为那里的太阳能照明设备亮度实在有限。)
从开普敦出发,需要驱车五到六个小时才能到达,这段旅程本身就堪称一次冒险。沿途会遇到仿佛没有尽头的碎石路,而且很多路段的状况相当糟糕。驾车时需格外小心——80公里/小时应视为最高限速——同时务必携带至少一条备胎以及几罐轮胎修复喷雾。幸运的是,尽管行驶了数百公里且沿途尘土飞扬,我们的轮胎却一次都没有出现爆胎情况。
从根本上说,坦克瓦国家公园与SANParks旗下的其他公园都大不相同。这里有令人叹为观止的壮丽景观;如果运气好的话,还能看到跳羚、大羚羊、开普山斑马、鸵鸟以及其他各种野生动物。这里还有180多种已记录到的鸟类。最重要的是,它是一个极为幽静的地方——四周万籁俱寂,在此观赏星空的体验也是你所能享受到的最棒的体验之一。