点评:A return visit to this little gem, which I’d first discovered by accident while having some spare time in the area and looking for a historic property to visit.
Belsay Hall/ Castle is clearly signposted from the bend in Belsay village on the A696. A single track lane (plenty of passing places) leads you for around ¾ mile to a large car park where there were plenty of spaces available, even on a sunny afternoon in July. Payment is free to English Heritage members, otherwise there is a £4 charge. The machine accepts cash only, but you can pay by RingGo or by card in the shop.
Belsay is a triple experience. After entering through the stables there is a ticket office and small shop. Entry is £13.85 for an adult (£15.30 with optional donation), £13.09 (£14.45) for concessions and £6.88 (£7.65) for children 5-17 years. There are family ticket options available and the property is free to English Heritage and Histioric Scotland Members. I recovered my annual membership cost to Historic Scotland over the course of this visit and the previous day, so well worth considering if you visit a lot of properties.
On leaving the stables, across the courtyard you first find Belsay Hall, an imposing Greek revival mansion. The rooms are empty (except for a display on design) with no furniture. There was access to more of the hall than on my previous visit, including part of the servant’s quarters and the underground vaults. Plenty information available on the history of the house and some of the conservation considerations.
After leaving the house and passing the croquet lawn, you get to my favourite part of the visit – the quarry that was used to supply the stone for Belsay Hall has been turned into a garden and has created a unique and very atmospheric feature as you wander through on the way to the ruins of medieval Belsay Castle about half a mile away. As you pass through the ravines, you find giant rhubard and overhanging vines, which seemed almost prehistoric – it reminded me of Skull Island! Towards the end of your journey through the gardens, you come across carved doorways that stretch 20 feet high and dead ends where the stone has created small intimate circular areas. Some places are quite dark as the trees are so far above you (and there are a lot of giant redwoods) that they shut off a lot of the natural light.
Belsay Castle has an audio visual display on in the ground floor about Belsay’s story, told by the Wild Man of the Woods, who appears appears on the crest of the Middleton Family. There is still a good portion of a subsequent extensions to the castle left to explore too, as it transitioned from a fortified castle to a mansion, and despite being in ruins, you can still access the upper floors.
There is a café nearby and a large play area, which wasn’t there on my previous visit. The return to Belsay Hall was on a different path, taking in more of the quarry garden.
Definitely a worthwhile day out, with plenty for children to do, and interest for history buffs and gardeners alike. I would allow at least 3 hours to do the garden, castle and house but you could spend a lot longer here.
翻译:我再次造访了这座小众景点——最初是在闲来无事、在该地区闲逛时偶然发现的,当时我正想找一处具有历史意义的景点参观。
从A696公路上贝尔赛村的弯道处就能清楚地看到通往贝尔赛庄园/城堡的指示牌。一条单行道(沿途设有多处会车处)通向约¾英里外的一个大型停车场;即便是在7月的一个晴爽下午,那里也仍有大量空位。英格兰遗产组织的会员可免费停车。否则需收取4英镑的费用。该售票机仅接受现金,但您也可以在商店内通过RingGo或信用卡付款。
贝尔赛庄园堪称三重体验之地。从马厩入口进入后,便可看到售票处和小商店。成人门票价格为13.85英镑(若选择自愿捐款则需15.30英镑);优惠票价格为13.09英镑(14.45英镑);5至17岁的儿童门票价格为6.88英镑(7.65英镑)。园区也提供家庭套票,而英格兰遗产协会及苏格兰历史遗产协会的会员则可免费入园。在这次参观以及前一天的游览中,我就收回了购买苏格兰历史遗迹年卡所需的费用,因此如果你经常参观各类历史遗迹的话,这张年卡绝对值得考虑。
离开马厩后,穿过庭院便能看到贝尔塞大厅——一座气势宏伟的希腊复兴风格豪宅。大厅内的房间空无一人(仅有一处关于设计的展览),也没有任何家具。这次我能进入的房间区域比上次更多,包括部分仆人居住区以及地下地窖。关于这座房子的历史以及一些保护方面的考量,有大量资料可供查阅。
离开房子并穿过槌球草坪后,便到了我此行最喜欢的部分——那个曾为贝尔西庄园提供石材的采石场,如今已改造成一座花园。漫步其中,前往半英里外的中世纪贝尔西城堡废墟时,这里便形成了一种独特且充满氛围感的景观。穿行于这些沟壑之间时……你会看到巨大的大黄植株以及垂挂下来的藤蔓,它们看起来几乎像史前时代的产物——这让我想起了骷髅岛!在游览花园的尾声,你会遇到高达20英尺的雕花门廊,还有一些死胡同,那里的石头堆砌出了多个小巧而幽静的圆形空间。由于树木(尤其是大量的巨型红木)高耸入云,遮住了大部分自然光线,有些地方显得相当昏暗。贝尔赛城堡的底层设有一个视听展示区,讲述了贝尔赛的历史。讲述者便是米德尔顿家族族徽上所描绘的“森林野人”。此外,城堡后来扩建的部分也仍有不少区域可供参观——这些扩建工程使得城堡从一座防御性城堡逐渐转变为一座豪宅。尽管如今城堡已沦为废墟,但人们仍然可以进入其上层楼层。
附近有一家咖啡馆和一个大型游乐区,这些设施在我上次到访时还不存在。返回贝尔塞庄园的路线有所不同,沿途能欣赏到更多的采石场花园景观。
这绝对是值得一去的一天——孩子们有好多可玩的项目,而历史爱好者和园艺迷也能大饱眼福。我建议至少预留3个小时来游览花园、城堡和主楼,不过您也可以在这里停留更久。