点评:My wife and I hiked from Aguas Calientes (Pueblo Machu Picchu) on September 23. Do NOT use Google Maps to plan your trip to Mandor. Google Maps doesn't recognize the railway as a legitimate walking route and it will tell you that the walk takes over 3 hours. It doesn't. It takes a bit over an hour if you are taking your time and walking the tracks. We followed the road to Machu Picchu until we reached the bridge that crosses the river (the one used by the Machu Picchu buses) and then we climbed up the stairwell to the railway tracks. You can follow the tracks all the way to Mandor but if you do that you have to go through a train tunnel - and we wanted to avoid that. The stairs are on your right when the bridge is on your left. The walk along the tracks is straightforward but keep your ear open for trains and get well off to the side if you hear one coming. Mandor is not hard to find. You will come to a clearing with railway tracks splitting and creating sidings. The check-in desk is on your left of the tracks as you approach from Aguas Calientes and the gardens, buildings and trails are on the right. You have to pay $20 Soles per person to enter the gardens. There is a nice hummingbird garden behind the restaurant (on the same side as the check-in desk). There are two main trails - one leads uphill to a lookout from which you can see Machu Picchu, and the other leads to a nice waterfall. The hill trail is steep in places and can be slippery. Take this trail if you are looking for Andean Cock-of-the Rock, Peru's national bird. When you get to a clearing that opens to the right, look for the remains of the Inca Road and head for that. The lookout for Machu Picchu is there. There's also a trail that continues steeply to the left and we followed it for a while but it seemed to peter out and we turned back. The waterfall trail is very easy and the clear cold water of the river is inviting, but be aware of sandflies. They were vicious when we were there. We ate lunch at Mandor while sitting in the hummingbird garden. It was very pleasant. The hummingbird watching opportunities are fantastic. We saw several species there. Mandor is a wonderful option if you have some extra time in Aguas Calientes and want to escape the crush of tourists. If you are a birdwatcher Mandor is almost a "must do". The staff are really nice and they have an excellent downloadable map that will show you exactly where you are as you hike the trails. Highly recommended.
翻译:9月23日,我和妻子从阿瓜斯卡连特斯(马丘比丘镇)出发徒步。切勿使用谷歌地图来规划前往曼多尔的行程。谷歌地图并不承认这条铁路线为合法的步行路线,还会显示这段路程需要3个多小时才能走完。其实并非如此。如果你慢慢行走并沿着铁轨前进,只需要一个多小时就能到达。我们沿着通往马丘比丘的道路前行,直到抵达横跨河流的桥梁(就是马丘比丘观光巴士所走的桥),随后沿着楼梯爬上铁路轨道。你可以沿着铁轨一直走到曼多尔,但那样就必须要穿过一条铁路隧道——而我们不想走那条路。当桥梁在你的左侧时,楼梯就在你的右侧。沿着铁轨行走很简单,但需时刻留意是否有火车驶来;一旦听到火车声音,务必迅速躲到路边。Mandor很容易找到——你会来到一个开阔地带,这里的铁轨在这里分叉并形成侧线。从阿瓜斯卡连特斯和花园方向走来时,售票处就在铁轨左侧,而花园、建筑和各种小径则位于右侧。进入花园需支付每人20索尔的费用。餐厅后面有个很不错的蜂鸟花园(就在办理入住手续处的那一侧)。那里有两条主要步道:一条向上延伸,可通往可以俯瞰马丘比丘的观景台;另一条则通向一处美丽的瀑布。山上的步道有些地方很陡峭,也容易打滑。如果您想寻找秘鲁的国鸟——安第斯红顶雀,那就走这条步道吧。当您来到右侧有空地的地方时,寻找印加古道的遗迹,然后朝那个方向前进即可。马丘比丘的观景台就在那里。还有一条小径向左方陡峭延伸,我们沿着它走了一会儿,但后来似乎走到头了,于是又折返回来。前往瀑布的小径非常容易行走,河水清澈冰凉,十分诱人;不过要小心沙蝇哦——我们在那里时它们可凶了。我们在曼多尔用餐,同时坐在蜂鸟花园里,感觉非常惬意。观赏蜂鸟的机会也棒极了,我们在那里看到了好几种蜂鸟呢。如果你在阿瓜斯卡连特斯有多余的时间,又想避开拥挤的游客人群,那么曼多尔绝对是个绝佳之选。对于观鸟爱好者而言,这里更是“必去之地”。工作人员非常友善,他们还提供一份可下载的地图,能帮你清楚地了解自己在步道上的位置。强烈推荐!