点评:The imposing Royal Fortress is the star attraction at Chinon.
First built in built in 954 and expanded under Henry II in the 12th century, it sits high above Chinon, overlooking the Vienne River and looming dramatically over the town.
Unlike some of the Loire chateaux which are very beautiful, with extravagant decoration and luxurious furnishings, this is austere and unadorned. Just looking at it, you can see straight away that that it was built to defend rather than to look pretty.
There are obvious defence features like deep moats, impenetrable curtain walls, arrow slits, ramparts, battlements, and lookout towers. The whole thing sits along a rocky ridge at the top of steep natural cliffs which would have been an excellent lookout point and would’ve made it difficult for anyone to attack.
We spent two and half hours here. We were not in a rush and we stopped to read and look at everything but if you are time limited, you could easily do it in under 2 hours.
A really interesting feature was the Joan of Arc connection. After hearing voices, this is where Joan came to meet with Charles II. Here at the fortress, she made her famous promise to liberate Orleans from the English and to lead the Charles to his coronation as the true King of France.
One whole room is dedicated to Joan of Arc and has tapestries and artefacts, including a number of bottles that purport to contain her ashes (we were a bit skeptical about those).
It’s fair to say that the fortress is only very sparsely furnished. There are no lavishly decked out rooms. Instead your ticket includes a Histopad, an interactive tablet that uses augmented reality to show how each room was used and how it was furnished. It’s super easy to use and for kids, there’s a treasure hunt game (which we found surprisingly fun as well). However make sure to pick up the lanyard at the start so you don’t have to carry it the whole time because it gets a bit cumbersome otherwise.
There are some open park-like spaces surrounding the castle (although no beautifully planted-out gardens). When we were there in June, the courtyard area was quite dry, dusty and hot. However there was a nice area beside the dungeon with large shady trees and several garden seats where we sat to have a break on what was a very hot day.
There’s not a lot in the way of food and drinks. A cafe/van is tucked away near the Clock Tower but it only has a small range of offerings so we went back down to Place General de Gaulle instead.
Overall, I’d highly recommend visiting the Fortress. It has an absolutely fascinating history and there’s an awful lot to see here.
PRACTICAL TIPS:
* There are a lot of stairs. Small kids will still be OK but if you have dodgy knees or mobility issues, then you might not manage the towers and don’t even try the dungeon.
* At €12.50 , tickets are very reasonably priced compared to some other chateaux
* The Tourist Information Centre offers a small discount if you buy the ticket directly through them. You can also buy bundled tickets that include more than one chateau (although these only seem to be worthwhile if you are planning to visit at least one of the very big chateaus as well)
* The free public elevator will take you right up to the castle and save you a steep climb up
翻译:雄伟的皇家堡垒是希农最负盛名的景点。它始建于954年,12世纪时又在亨利二世的命令下得以扩建。堡垒高踞于希农镇上方,俯瞰着维埃纳河,巍然屹立于城镇之中。与卢瓦尔河谷其他那些装饰华丽、陈设奢靡的美丽城堡不同,这座堡垒显得朴素而简朴。光是看上一眼便能明白:它的建造目的重在防御,而非外观炫目。这里有明显的防御设施,如深壕沟、坚不可破的城墙、射箭孔、垛墙、城堞以及瞭望塔。整个堡垒坐落在陡峭的天然悬崖顶端的岩石山脊上,那里本就是绝佳的瞭望点,也能有效阻止任何人的进攻。
我们在那里停留了两个半小时。我们并不赶时间,还停下来仔细阅读说明并观赏各处景观;不过如果时间有限,两小时内也能轻松游览完毕。一个非常有趣的特色就是与圣女贞德的关联。在听到天启之声后,贞德便来到此处与查理二世会面。就在这座堡垒中,她许下了著名的誓言:要把奥尔良从英国人手中解救出来,并辅佐查理二世加冕为法国的真正国王。
整个一个房间都是专门用来展示圣女贞德的,里面陈列着挂毯和各种文物,还包括好几个据称装有她骨灰的瓶子(我们对这些瓶子的真实性有些怀疑)。可以说,这座堡垒里的陈设极为稀少。这里没有任何装饰华丽的房间。不过,购票后你会获得一个 Histopad——这是一种交互式平板电脑,能借助增强现实技术展示每个房间的用途及其曾经的陈设情况。它极易操作;对于孩子们来说,还有一个寻宝游戏(我们自己也觉得这个游戏有趣得超乎意料)。不过,一开始一定要拿到挂绳,这样就不必一直随身携带了,否则会有些累赘。
城堡周围有一些类似公园的开放空间(不过没有精心修剪过的花园)。我们六月去的时候,庭院里相当干燥、尘土飞扬且酷热难耐。不过地牢旁边有一片不错的区域,那里有大片遮阴的树木和几张花园长椅,我们在那个酷热的日子里就坐在那里休息。这里没什么食物和饮料可买。钟楼附近有个咖啡馆/餐车,但提供的品种很少,所以我们又回到了戴高乐广场。
总的来说,我极力推荐大家去参观这座堡垒。它拥有极其有趣的历史背景,值得参观的地方也数不胜数。
实用小贴士:
* 这里有很多楼梯。小孩子应该还能应付,但如果你膝盖不好或行动不便的话……否则你可能无法登上塔楼,甚至连地牢都进不去。
* 票价仅为12.50欧元,与其他城堡相比价格相当实惠。
* 如果您直接在游客信息中心购票,还能享受小幅折扣。您也可以购买包含多个城堡的联票(不过似乎只有当您打算参观至少一座大型城堡时,这类联票才物有所值)。
* 免费的公共电梯可直接将您送至城堡入口,省去一段陡峭的爬升路程。