点评:Visited on a Saturday morning in late July 2026, right at the 9 a.m. opening, on the same trip as the modern Caracalla Therme next door.
THE BUILDING
The star of the show. Opened in 1877, the Renaissance-revival architecture is genuinely magnificent – the domed central pool hall alone justifies a visit, and the whole house has an aesthetic quality no modern spa can copy. Bit run down both from outside and inside.
THE RITUAL
This is not a free-form spa but a fixed 17-stage circuit: showers, hot-air rooms, steam, baths, cold plunge, rest. You are guided – and firmly kept – on script by the staff. If the word “regimented” appeals to you, you will enjoy it; if you prefer wandering at your own pace, you will feel supervised. Bathing is nude throughout, which is worth knowing in advance. Except on Saturdays and I recon on Wednesdays.
THE TEMPERATURES
My main functional complaint. The famous central pool under the dome was too cold to enjoy for long. All other pools and rooms were indeed very hot!
TIME NEEDED
The house suggests around three hours; two were enough. The stages are short and the sequence moves along briskly. Mark Twain famously claimed you forget the world here in twenty minutes – after two hours I was ready to rejoin it.
VERDIC
Worth doing once for the architecture and the sense of history. But as an actual relaxing spa day, the modern Caracalla next door beats it clearly. Three stars: five for the building, two for the bathing.
翻译:我于2026年7月下旬的一个周六上午造访此地,正好是上午9点刚开门的时候,同次行程中我还去了隔壁现代化的卡拉卡拉温泉浴场。
**建筑风貌**
这里的亮点所在。该建筑建于1877年,采用了文艺复兴风格的复兴式建筑风格,着实宏伟壮丽——单是那个带圆顶的中央泳池大厅就足以让人值得一访;整座建筑的审美水准也是任何现代水疗中心都无法企及的。不过建筑外观与内部都略显破旧。
**体验流程**
这里并非随意使用的普通水疗中心,而是一条设有17个环节的固定体验流程:淋浴……热风房、蒸汽房、浴缸、冷水浴池以及休息区。工作人员会引导你——并严格按流程安排你的活动。如果你喜欢“规整有序”的体验,你会乐在其中;但如果你更希望随心所欲地闲逛,可能会觉得受到约束。整个沐浴过程均需裸身进行,这一点值得提前了解。不过周六除外,我想周三也是例外。
温度问题
这是我最主要的不满之处。那个位于圆顶下的著名中央泳池水温太低,根本无法长时间享受。其他所有泳池和房间确实都热得不得了!
所需时间
这座建筑建议的游览时间约为三小时;但实际上两小时就足够了。各个参观环节都很简短,整个游览过程进行得相当迅速。马克·吐温曾说过,在这里二十分钟就能忘却世俗烦忧——而两小时后,我便又渴望重新回到现实世界了。
总结
为了欣赏其建筑风格与历史韵味,来此一游倒也值得。不过若想真正享受一个放松身心的水疗日,隔壁的现代化卡拉卡拉水疗中心显然更胜一筹。评分:三星;建筑本身值得五星。两个用来洗澡用。