点评:Review of the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Gardens
First there’s the challenge of getting there – the Botanic Gardens are in the central Dandenong Ranges and surrounded by the natural flora of the local National Park. The park comprises six forests and reserves and covers an area >3.5 km2 centred upon Mount Dandenong which, at 633 m, is the highest point in the ranges and 45 km east of Central Melbourne. The one is easily seen from the other, given the city’s dominant CBD/high rise buildings at the head of Port Phillip Bay and, in the ranges, the location of the FM radio and television signal towers that are unique to Mount Dandenong.
Like the majority visitors to the Botanic Gardens, we travelled by car – following the Mount Dandenong Tourist Road through the popular tourist/holiday townships of Sassafras and Olinda. For >10 km we challenged the narrow and twisty tar seal road with those sharp bends (25 & 35 km/h) and steep sided gulleys (at speeds that never satisfied the endless tail back that quickly featured). There were few places in which to pull over.
The road climbs through the cool climate rain forests both sides of the road and you’re immersed in the uniformity of densely packed Mountain Ash (Eucalyptus regnans) that reaches to the open sky. Tree ferns take advantage of the road and the occasional light provided by breaks in the enclosed canopy. The resilience of the natural flora and, not least, the foresight of the city’s water engineers resulted in the return of forest cover following the large-scale extraction of timber from the region with which to construct 19th C. colonial Melbourne.*
The Botanic Gardens are located east of Olinda. There’s ample parking available but, be aware, we found parking competitive for a mid-week afternoon visit – looking for space. That said, you could, if required, easily park in the township and walk the 600 m should the need arise. The forest trees remain at a distance, with the gardens covering an area 45 ha.
Enter under the arch and through the wooden gatehouse/shop/ticket kiosk and, from the veranda outside (packed with plants and other horticultural ware), the gardens stretch downhill into the distance (which was mostly hidden by trees/shrubs). A few metres away to the right there’s a small cafeteria. Entry to the gardens is free – surprising and generous. You’ll need a ticket, however, for the small electric bus (with accompanying guide) that provides a tour of the gardens. Sensible for those with limited time and/or restricted walking capabilities. Remember when on foot, returning to the exit/carpark is uphill and seats to stop/rest are limited.
Look around you. This used to be Wurundjeri country – forest/hill/Yarra River Valley people from ancient times. High rainfall, rich volcanic soils and cold/mild-country plants/trees provided the indigenous people with shelter, materials and food resources – fish, hunter-gatherers, yams, etc. from the surrounding low country (that included what is now Melbourne). Numbers were few 250 years ago - there’s reference to <1,000 people in the five regional tribal groups that made up the Kulin Nations at the time.
Then there’s the delightful flora of the modern Botanic Gardens. They are spectacular and particularly in spring when many of the species are in flower. An introductory board informs you – the visitor – that there’s an estimated 15,000 rhododendrons, 12,000 azaleas, 3,000 camellias, 250,000 daffodils and many other plants. There’s enormous pleasure in seeing an interesting tree, shrub or plant together with a name board that enables you to capture the knowledge of the plant/species.
Everywhere you look there’s a backcloth of brilliant reds and whites. We followed a coachload of what-looked-like East Asian tourists into the park and then watched them queueing to take photos of self/couples/families/groups in front of the different contrasting floral displays. Watching the people/groups became novel entertainment as they patiently awaited their turn – with others whom they clearly knew well - giving rise to the banter and laughter involved. Happy visitors then.
This was our second visit to the Botanic Gardens in as many years. Earlier we had not appreciated our fellow visitors as part of the attraction but, at the time, we had seen a large flock of lyrebirds about mid-way down the gardens at a place called ‘Lyre Bird Lookout’. This time the birds were missing. Do the birds migrate? Are they in collective custody during the winter months? Somebody will know.
We enjoyed a couple of hours walking/exploring/enjoying the gardens and reached halfway – near the Australian Hybrid Rhododendron Exhibition before turning back. We have the Australian Rhododendron Society to thank for their initiative >60 years ago when first establishing their rhododendron garden …. that developed into the Botanic Gardens of the modern day.
Peter Steele
02Nov25
*Fire. The forest in and around the nascent Botanic Gardens was largely destroyed by a major bushfire in January 1962 – just two years after the gardens were first established. What you see today is largely 60-year-old regrowth. The fire, however, helped clear the surrounding country of bush cover.
翻译:丹德农山脉植物园评测
首先,前往植物园本身就是个挑战——植物园位于丹德农山脉中部,周围环绕着当地国家公园的自然植被。该公园由六片森林和保护区组成,占地超过3.5平方公里,以丹德农山为中心。丹德农山海拔633米,是山脉的最高点,位于墨尔本市中心以东45公里处。由于墨尔本市中心高楼林立,位于菲利普港湾的尽头,而山脉中则矗立着丹德农山特有的调频广播和电视信号塔,因此很容易从丹德农山看到墨尔本。
和大多数游客一样,我们选择自驾前往植物园——沿着丹德农山旅游公路,途经萨萨弗拉斯和奥林达这两个热门的旅游度假小镇。我们挑战了这条狭窄蜿蜒的柏油路,行驶了超过10公里,路段弯道急促(限速25至35公里/小时),两侧沟壑陡峭(即使这样,也无法满足不断出现的无尽车流)。沿途几乎没有可以停车的地方。
道路蜿蜒穿过道路两侧凉爽的热带雨林,周围是茂密的山桉(Eucalyptus regnans),它们直插云霄,构成了一幅单调的景象。树蕨则在道路旁和树冠缝隙间偶尔透进来的阳光中茁壮生长。19世纪,为了建造殖民时期的墨尔本,该地区曾大规模砍伐木材。正是由于当地植物的顽强生命力,以及城市水利工程师的远见卓识,才使得这片森林得以恢复。*
植物园位于奥林达以东。停车位充足,但请注意,我们发现工作日下午停车比较困难,需要费一番功夫才能找到车位。不过,如果需要,您可以轻松地将车停在镇上,然后步行600米即可到达花园。花园占地45公顷,与周围的森林保持一定距离。
穿过拱门,经过木制门房/商店/售票亭,从外面摆满植物和其他园艺用品的阳台上,可以看到花园向下延伸至远方(大部分被树木/灌木遮挡)。右侧几米处有一家小型咖啡馆。花园免费入场——令人惊喜且慷慨。但是,您需要购买车票才能乘坐小型电动巴士(配有导游)游览花园。对于时间有限或行动不便的人来说,乘坐巴士是明智之选。请记住,步行返回出口/停车场是上坡路,而且可以停下来休息的座位有限。
环顾四周。这里曾是沃伦杰里人的领地——自古以来,他们就生活在森林、丘陵和亚拉河谷地区。充沛的降雨、肥沃的火山土壤以及适宜寒冷或温和气候的植物和树木为原住民提供了住所、物资和食物资源——鱼类、狩猎采集、山药等等,这些都来自周边低地地区(包括现在的墨尔本)。250年前,他们的人口还很少——据记载,当时组成库林民族的五个地区部落的总人口不足1000人。
此外,现代植物园里还有令人赏心悦目的植物。它们景色壮丽,尤其是在春天,许多植物竞相绽放。一块介绍牌会告诉游客,这里大约有15000株杜鹃花、12000株山茶花、3000株山茶花、250000株水仙花以及许多其他植物。看到一棵有趣的树木、灌木或植物,旁边还有一块标牌,可以让你了解这种植物/物种的知识,这本身就是一种莫大的乐趣。
目光所及之处,皆是绚丽的红白相间背景。我们跟着一车看起来像是东亚游客的游客进入公园,然后看着他们排队在各种对比鲜明的花卉前拍照,有的是自拍,有的是情侣照,有的是家庭照,有的是团体照。看着这些人耐心地等待轮到自己——显然他们和一些熟人一起——也成了一件有趣的事,期间不时传来一阵阵玩笑和笑声。看来游客们都很开心。
这是我们连续第二年来植物园。之前我们并没有把其他游客当作游览的乐趣,但当时我们在花园中段一个叫做“琴鸟观景台”的地方看到了一大群琴鸟。这次却不见了它们的身影。琴鸟会迁徙吗?它们冬天会被集体圈养吗?总会有人知道的。
我们花了几个小时漫步/探索/欣赏花园,走到一半——靠近澳大利亚杂交杜鹃花展览馆附近——然后就折返了。我们要感谢澳大利亚杜鹃花协会,感谢他们60多年前创建杜鹃花园的远见卓识……它发展成了如今的植物园。
彼得·斯蒂尔
2025年11月2日
*火灾。植物园及其周边地区的森林在1962年1月的一场大火中几乎被夷为平地——当时植物园才刚刚建成两年。如今您所看到的,大多是60年前重新生长的树木。然而,这场大火也帮助清除了周边地区的灌木丛。