点评:My wife and I were keen to visit Wae rebo village but didn’t want to do a ‘all inclusive’ mass package tour from Labuan bajo which involved staying overnight in the village and having a guide. So this is what we did.
I use the term ‘semi independent’ because we did engage the services of Martin who owns the Wae Rebo Lodge and was useful in assisting us with logistics. His Wae Rebo lodge is located in the village of Denge which is some 9km from the trailhead on the southern coastline of Flores. We messaged him through WhatsApp and he organised for a driver to pick us up from Labuan Bajo. The cost of a return trip from Labuan Bajo to Wae Rebo village + A return trip from Wae Rebo lodge to the trailhead start was 2.8 million Indonesian Rupiah. This was quite helpful as our 3 day 2 night Komodo islands tour got in at 1pm and so we used the remaining hours of that day to get to the Wae rebo lodge in time for sunset.
Despite only being a touch over 110km from Labuan Bajo, the road to Wae Rebo/Denge is extremely poor and took some 4 hours to negotiate. The last 10-15km prior to getting into the village was particularly poor and took around an hour. They seem to be doing some work on replacing this road so this situation should improve over the next few months.
The Wae Rebo lodge charges 500000IR a night for a fan room and 1000000IR a night for an air conditioned room. Prices include board (breastfast and dinner). There are additional drinks (soft drinks, water, beer) available for purchase. They didn’t have card facilities here so bring money. The food here was actually extremely tasty. There is wifi located in the lodge, but it only really works in one particular spot behind the restaurant. We ended up going with an air conditioned room as it was quite hot by the coast and the enclosed nature of the air conditioned room meant it was better for keeping out mosquitos. It’s worth noting that the entire island of Flores has malaria. Mosquito nets were provided in the rooms. The lodge itself is located within picturesque rice paddies and has a lovely view out to the island of Pulau Mules. Hot water didnt work but it was warm enough that it didnt really matter.
Our driver drove us to the trailhead the next morning. There seemed to be two car parks and the road between them wasn’t really suitable for a car (perhaps only a scooter). It takes 20 minutes one way to walk from the main car park to the smaller car park at the base of the trailhead. I calculated the trail itself to be 15km return trip (starting at the car park further away) with around a 500 metre elevation gain. There is a man renting sticks for 10000IR at the base of the trail, but I felt these to be unnecessary. It took 2.5 hours (from the first car park) to get up and 2 hours to get down. The path was clearly marked and was in fact paved from the first 1/3rd to half. I cannot see how a guide would be needed. Maybe 10 minutes before entering the village you will encounter a hut where you are informed to bash a bamboo stick to create a noise meant to indicate your imminent arrival (I think this more for novelty).
Once at the village were were shuffled to the chiefs house, where a small ‘ceremony’ occurs in which you are given ‘protection’ for your stay. This takes maybe just over 2 minutes and you are expected to pay 50000IR (total, not each) for this. Being day trippers we were then taken to the tourist guesthouse where we paid 200000IR (each) and were given a reasonable lunch of vegetables, crackers, rice and eggs. I dont think any of these fees are negotiable. Following this we were allowed to wander around the village without interference taking as much time as we wished to view the various goings on. There wasn’t a whole lot to do up here so we were secretly quite happy with our decision to not stay overnight. We did note a sign for a 1 hour walk to a waterfall but we decided not to do this. Our happiness at our decision not to stay overnight was reinforced when we passed the various large groups of tourists who were heading up as we were coming down.
We left the village at approximately 115pm and got back to the main car park at 1515. After another excellent dinner we had another night in our air conditioned mosquito free room before heading back in the morning to Labuan bajo, getting in shortly after midday.
Overall we were very happy with how we decided to visit Wae Rebo.
It was however, a lot of effort (particularly 8 hours along very terrible roads) to visit this area and apart from Wae Rebo, there isn’t much out here to keep one entertained. It overall requires an effort of at least 2 days and so I think if you’re short of time in Flores it is missable. If you do have time however and want to do something different, it could be for you.
翻译:我和妻子非常想去参观 Wae Rebo 村,但不想参加从拉布安巴焦出发的“全包”大众旅行团,因为这意味着要在村里过夜并请导游。所以我们就这么做了。
我使用“半独立”一词,因为我们确实聘请了马丁的服务,马丁拥有 Wae Rebo 旅馆,并在后勤方面帮助我们。他的 Wae Rebo 旅馆位于丹格村,距离弗洛雷斯南部海岸线的步道起点约 9 公里。我们通过 WhatsApp 给他发了消息,他安排了一名司机从拉布安巴焦接我们。从拉布安巴焦到 Wae Rebo 村的往返行程 + 从 Wae Rebo 旅馆到步道起点的往返行程费用为 280 万印尼盾。这非常有帮助,因为我们的 3 天 2 夜科莫多群岛之旅在下午 1 点开始,所以我们利用当天的剩余时间在日落时分到达 Wae Rebo 旅馆。
尽管距离拉布安巴焦只有 110 多公里,但通往 Wae Rebo/Denge 的道路状况极差,需要大约 4 个小时才能通过。进入村庄前的最后 10-15 公里路况特别糟糕,大约需要一个小时。他们似乎正在对这条路进行一些更换工作,因此这种情况在未来几个月内应该会有所改善。
Wae Rebo 旅馆的风扇房每晚收费 500000 伊朗里亚尔,空调房每晚收费 1000000 伊朗里亚尔。价格包括膳食(早餐和晚餐)。还有额外的饮料(软饮料、水、啤酒)可供购买。他们这里没有刷卡设施,所以请带钱。这里的食物实际上非常美味。旅馆内有 wifi,但只有在餐厅后面的一个特定位置才能使用。我们最终选择了空调房,因为海边很热,空调房的封闭性质意味着它更适合驱蚊。值得注意的是,整个弗洛雷斯岛都有疟疾。房间里有蚊帐。小屋本身坐落在风景如画的稻田中,可以欣赏到 Pulau Mules 岛的美景。热水没用,但水温足够暖和,所以没什么大不了的。
第二天早上,我们的司机开车送我们去了登山口。那里似乎有两个停车场,中间的道路不太适合汽车(也许只适合摩托车)。从主停车场步行到登山口底部较小的停车场单程需要 20 分钟。我计算出这条小径本身往返 15 公里(从较远的停车场开始),海拔增加约 500 米。在小径底部有一个男人以 10000 卢比的价格出租登山杖,但我觉得这些没有必要。上山花了 2.5 小时(从第一个停车场开始),下山花了 2 小时。这条路标得很清楚,实际上从前三分之一到一半都是铺好的。我看不出为什么需要导游。也许在进入村庄前 10 分钟,你会遇到一间小屋,有人告诉你敲打一根竹棍发出声音,表示你即将到达(我认为这更多的是为了新奇)。
到达村庄后,我们被带到酋长的房子,在那里举行一个小型“仪式”,为你提供住宿的“保护”。这可能需要 2 分钟多一点的时间,你需要为此支付 50000 伊朗里亚尔(总计,不是每个人)。作为一日游游客,我们随后被带到旅游宾馆,在那里我们支付了 200000 伊朗里亚尔(每个人),并得到了一份合理的午餐,包括蔬菜、饼干、米饭和鸡蛋。我认为这些费用是没有商量的余地的。之后,我们可以不受干扰地在村子里闲逛,花尽可能多的时间去观看各种活动。这里没什么可做的,所以我们暗自庆幸自己决定不在这里过夜。我们确实注意到了一条路标,上面写着步行 1 小时即可到达瀑布,但我们决定不这样做。当我们下山时,经过了一大群上山的游客,这进一步加深了我们决定不在这里过夜的喜悦。
我们大约在晚上 115 点离开村庄,并于 1515 点回到主停车场。在享用了另一顿美味的晚餐后,我们在没有蚊子的空调房间里又住了一晚,第二天早上返回 Labuan Bajo,中午过后不久到达。
总的来说,我们对参观 Wae Rebo 的决定感到非常高兴。
然而,参观这个地区需要付出很多努力(尤其是在非常糟糕的道路上行驶了 8 个小时),除了 Wae Rebo,这里没有什么可以让人娱乐的地方。总的来说,这需要至少 2 天的努力,所以我认为如果你在弗洛雷斯的时间不够,这是一个可以错过的地方。然而,如果您确实有时间并且想做一些不同的事情,那么它可能适合您。