旅行
账户
Phillip L
THE OTHER WAY– TO DO TROLLTUNGA, NORWAY [September 2024]
Trolltunga的点评
点评：The conventional advice is to start early (<6.00am), & to catch the shuttle from P2-P3 (to avoid the big climb), & to allow 3.5 to 5 hours each way (for this ‘demanding hike’). That could work out OK, but the exaggerated degree of difficulty discourages some from even starting. That schedule will also put you at the Troll’s Tongue, when the queue for photographs is likely to be an hour or so (& it’s quite cold up there)!
Our arrival at P1 at 10.45am on a busy Saturday morning meant we had missed the last bus to P2. We met a young American couple at P1 who quit the hike, deciding it was too late to start & too risky to drive their campervan to P2 (the sign says nothing over 5m). But the P1 parking guide said up to 6m+ could be OK for competent drivers, especially after the morning rush when no vehicles would be driving down). We were about to drive our campervan up to P2, when the awesome 72y.o. guide offered to drive us to P2 in time to catch the last shuttle to P3. He also gave us a ‘free-pass’ on the P1 parking tax!
We boarded the P2-P3 shuttle at 11.00am with a payment of 150NOK each. It is worth it to be driven up the 800m vertical gain of switchbacks to P3. The 10km hike from P3 to the Troll’s Tongue took us from 11.10am-1.15pm (just over 2 hours) at a brisk pace, with no stops other than for photos. We are 59y.o. but it really is not a strenuous hike & there are lots of stone steps & wooden boardwalks, 4 emergency huts & great signage & trail poles all the way. There is bit of drainage underfoot in places, but no rock-scrambling, no climbing & you’d seriously have to be trying for the Darwin Award to get lost on this hike.
Reaching Trolltunga at 1.15pm meant there was a short 15min queue for a photograph & then we headed back, eating our lunch as we hiked the 10km back to P3. It was marginally quicker going down (about 2 hours) & we then hitched a ride in a private car from P3, all the way down to our campervan at P1. The hikers walking down the switch backs from P3 to P2 didn’t look very happy!!
So ’the-other-way’ to experience Trolltunga, is to let the morning rush get done & to deliberately aim for the last shuttle at 11.00am from P2. At this time, the drive from P1 to P2 will be hassle free with no more shuttles coming down the road. The hike from P3 is gentle and don’t be discouraged by the exaggerated track notes. Most importantly, this schedule will have you passing most of the day trippers as they return, & get you to Trolltunga when the photograph queue will be <15min. We were back having a beer in the P1 carpark at 3.30pm. Even if you walk slower than us, there is daylight till 8.00pm & return shuttles to 6.00pm. Total cost for our day was 300NOK.
Major Risk: Falling off Trolltunga. In 2015, a 24y.o. Australian girl slipped near the Troll’s Tongue & fell to her death. Don’t push the envelope, it is an unfenced overhang with loose surfaces and strong gusts.
Our arrival at P1 at 10.45am on a busy Saturday morning meant we had missed the last bus to P2. We met a young American couple at P1 who quit the hike, deciding it was too late to start & too risky to drive their campervan to P2 (the sign says nothing over 5m). But the P1 parking guide said up to 6m+ could be OK for competent drivers, especially after the morning rush when no vehicles would be driving down). We were about to drive our campervan up to P2, when the awesome 72y.o. guide offered to drive us to P2 in time to catch the last shuttle to P3. He also gave us a ‘free-pass’ on the P1 parking tax!
We boarded the P2-P3 shuttle at 11.00am with a payment of 150NOK each. It is worth it to be driven up the 800m vertical gain of switchbacks to P3. The 10km hike from P3 to the Troll’s Tongue took us from 11.10am-1.15pm (just over 2 hours) at a brisk pace, with no stops other than for photos. We are 59y.o. but it really is not a strenuous hike & there are lots of stone steps & wooden boardwalks, 4 emergency huts & great signage & trail poles all the way. There is bit of drainage underfoot in places, but no rock-scrambling, no climbing & you’d seriously have to be trying for the Darwin Award to get lost on this hike.
Reaching Trolltunga at 1.15pm meant there was a short 15min queue for a photograph & then we headed back, eating our lunch as we hiked the 10km back to P3. It was marginally quicker going down (about 2 hours) & we then hitched a ride in a private car from P3, all the way down to our campervan at P1. The hikers walking down the switch backs from P3 to P2 didn’t look very happy!!
So ’the-other-way’ to experience Trolltunga, is to let the morning rush get done & to deliberately aim for the last shuttle at 11.00am from P2. At this time, the drive from P1 to P2 will be hassle free with no more shuttles coming down the road. The hike from P3 is gentle and don’t be discouraged by the exaggerated track notes. Most importantly, this schedule will have you passing most of the day trippers as they return, & get you to Trolltunga when the photograph queue will be <15min. We were back having a beer in the P1 carpark at 3.30pm. Even if you walk slower than us, there is daylight till 8.00pm & return shuttles to 6.00pm. Total cost for our day was 300NOK.
Major Risk: Falling off Trolltunga. In 2015, a 24y.o. Australian girl slipped near the Troll’s Tongue & fell to her death. Don’t push the envelope, it is an unfenced overhang with loose surfaces and strong gusts.
翻译：传统建议是早点出发（<6:00am），搭乘从 P2 到 P3 的班车（避免爬坡），并预留 3.5 到 5 小时（对于这次“艰难的徒步旅行”而言）。这样可能还行，但夸大的难度让一些人甚至不想开始。这个时间表还会让您到达 Troll’s Tongue，那里排队拍照的时间可能要一个小时左右（而且那里很冷）！
我们在一个繁忙的周六早上 10:45 到达 P1，这意味着我们错过了最后一班去 P2 的巴士。我们在 P1 遇到了一对年轻的美国夫妇，他们放弃了徒步旅行，认为出发太晚了，开着露营车去 P2 太危险了（标志上没有说超过 5 米）。但 P1 停车指南说，对于熟练的驾驶员来说，6 米以上是可以的，尤其是在早高峰之后，没有车辆驶下山）。我们正要开着露营车去 P2，这时那位 72 岁的导游提出开车送我们去 P2，以便赶上最后一班去 P3 的班车。他还给了我们一张 P1 停车税的“免费通行证”！
我们于上午 11 点登上 P2-P3 班车，每人支付 150 挪威克朗。开车上 800 米的之字形山路到达 P3 是值得的。从 P3 到 Troll’s Tongue 的 10 公里徒步从上午 11 点 10 分持续到下午 1 点 15 分（刚好超过 2 小时），我们步伐轻快，除了拍照外没有停留。我们 59 岁了，但这真的不是一次艰苦的徒步旅行，一路上有很多石阶和木板路、4 个应急小屋和很棒的路标和步道杆。在一些地方，脚下有一点排水，但无需攀岩，无需攀爬，而且您必须非常努力才能在这次徒步旅行中迷路。
下午 1:15 到达 Trolltunga 意味着要排队 15 分钟才能拍照，然后我们返回，一边吃午餐一边徒步 10 公里回到 P3。下山稍微快一点（大约 2 小时），然后我们从 P3 搭私家车，一直到我们在 P1 的露营车。从 P3 走下通往 P2 的岔路的徒步旅行者看起来不太开心！！
因此，体验 Trolltunga 的“另一种方式”是让早上的高峰结束，并特意瞄准从 P2 出发的 11:00 的最后一班班车。此时，从 P1 到 P2 的车程将毫无麻烦，因为路上没有更多的班车。从 P3 开始的徒步路程很轻松，不要因为夸张的路线而气馁。最重要的是，这个行程安排会让你在大多数一日游游客返回时超过他们，并让你在拍照排队时间少于 15 分钟时到达 Trolltunga。下午 3:30，我们回到 P1 停车场喝啤酒。即使你走得比我们慢，白天到晚上 8:00 都有，回程班车到下午 6:00 才有。我们一天的总费用是 300 挪威克朗。
主要风险：从 Trolltunga 跌落。2015 年，一名 24 岁的澳大利亚女孩在 Troll’s Tongue 附近滑倒并摔死。不要冒险，这是一个没有围栏的悬崖，表面松散，阵风强劲。
我们在一个繁忙的周六早上 10:45 到达 P1，这意味着我们错过了最后一班去 P2 的巴士。我们在 P1 遇到了一对年轻的美国夫妇，他们放弃了徒步旅行，认为出发太晚了，开着露营车去 P2 太危险了（标志上没有说超过 5 米）。但 P1 停车指南说，对于熟练的驾驶员来说，6 米以上是可以的，尤其是在早高峰之后，没有车辆驶下山）。我们正要开着露营车去 P2，这时那位 72 岁的导游提出开车送我们去 P2，以便赶上最后一班去 P3 的班车。他还给了我们一张 P1 停车税的“免费通行证”！
我们于上午 11 点登上 P2-P3 班车，每人支付 150 挪威克朗。开车上 800 米的之字形山路到达 P3 是值得的。从 P3 到 Troll’s Tongue 的 10 公里徒步从上午 11 点 10 分持续到下午 1 点 15 分（刚好超过 2 小时），我们步伐轻快，除了拍照外没有停留。我们 59 岁了，但这真的不是一次艰苦的徒步旅行，一路上有很多石阶和木板路、4 个应急小屋和很棒的路标和步道杆。在一些地方，脚下有一点排水，但无需攀岩，无需攀爬，而且您必须非常努力才能在这次徒步旅行中迷路。
下午 1:15 到达 Trolltunga 意味着要排队 15 分钟才能拍照，然后我们返回，一边吃午餐一边徒步 10 公里回到 P3。下山稍微快一点（大约 2 小时），然后我们从 P3 搭私家车，一直到我们在 P1 的露营车。从 P3 走下通往 P2 的岔路的徒步旅行者看起来不太开心！！
因此，体验 Trolltunga 的“另一种方式”是让早上的高峰结束，并特意瞄准从 P2 出发的 11:00 的最后一班班车。此时，从 P1 到 P2 的车程将毫无麻烦，因为路上没有更多的班车。从 P3 开始的徒步路程很轻松，不要因为夸张的路线而气馁。最重要的是，这个行程安排会让你在大多数一日游游客返回时超过他们，并让你在拍照排队时间少于 15 分钟时到达 Trolltunga。下午 3:30，我们回到 P1 停车场喝啤酒。即使你走得比我们慢，白天到晚上 8:00 都有，回程班车到下午 6:00 才有。我们一天的总费用是 300 挪威克朗。
主要风险：从 Trolltunga 跌落。2015 年，一名 24 岁的澳大利亚女孩在 Troll’s Tongue 附近滑倒并摔死。不要冒险，这是一个没有围栏的悬崖，表面松散，阵风强劲。
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