点评:We went to Lore Lindu 1 week ago (Sept 2023) for a 5d4N trip and would like to share our thoughts and comment for other travelers. There are awfully little information on the internet written in English for organizing a private tour. We spent lots of time trying to organise a trip that is reasonably priced. For those wanting to plan the trip themselves, a detailed map of Lore Lindu can be found in the book- "Sulawesi" by Periplus Travel Guides. Although the version we borrowed from our local library is the 2003 version, it contains a reasonably detailed map of Lore Lindu, much better than Lonely Planet for this part of Indonesia.
Thanks for the latest review in TripAdvisor, we contacted the WA no. of Palu Lore Lindu Park Office, the officer there actually has been super helpful, he gave us 4-5 guides contact no. Unfortunately all the guides the Officier gave us have quoted us a price that is way over our budget for a 5D4N all inclusive tour for 2 people (car, 1 driver, 1 guide, entrance, full board with homestay). The price they quoted start from 1200usd to way over 2000usd. Despite the price variations, they all use the same lodgings (both Besoa and Bada has a limited amount of homestays, according to our guide- Besoa Valley has 2, Bada Valley has 3, these homestays are of similar qualities so it shouldn't be a huge price difference among the homestays).
Perhaps the car is better or the guide is more professional?? I still could not make out the huge price variations given of the same itinerary.
Our 5D4N itinerary is like this, we started from Palu - Besoa valley 2 nights stay - Tentena 1 night -Bada Valley 1night - Tentena.
This itinerary was recommended by a couple of guides we contacted. To us, after visiting both Valleys, we think we would better off skip Besoa if one s main interest is to see some megaliths (not all) and some bird watching (in particular the hornbills). Reasons for this is
1. Besoa has megaliths but mainly the Kalambas and several smaller human like megaliths. for those who are interested in the largest megalith, it is in Bada. Unless you really want to see the large Kalambas, it is not worth the 13 hours travel (6 hours from Palu to Besoa, then 7 hours Besoa to Tentena). To us as an outsider (not an anthropologist or archeologist) , Bada Valley actually has more varied megaliths- The largest Megalith called Palindo, the "Buffalo stone" which sits among the beautiful rice fields, the "monkey stone" once again in beautiful rice fields (there are a couple of broken Kalambas near the monkey stone if one is really interested to see) and couple more of interesting human like megaliths.
2. Apart from a small part of road (45min of ride out of 7 hours journey) from Besoa to Tentena which is quite beautiful (a bit like going through the moor of
Scotland or the Pine forest of Switzerland) , the rest of the scenery is quite similar to the Bada-Tentena road. The worst bit is because not so many tourist go to Besoa compare to Bada, the road conditions to Besoa (either from Palu or Tentena) is quite bumpy.
3. There are a couple of places of interest from Palu to Besoa, Tembing Lake and the largw rainbow tree near Tembing lake. Personally we found the Tembing lake uninteresting. We thought it will be a lake with nice natural setting, yet we found out that it is more like a weekend vacation place, which means there are a large camping ground with concrete buildings and facility right in front of the lake. This is not what we expect for when we come all the way from overseas to see nature. The scenery could be from small lakes near countryside of any countries. Nevertheless, we did saw a couple of interesting birds/insects in this area- the hanging parrot and Iron rajah (Charaxes mars) butterfly. The rainbow tree (Eucalyptus deglupta) is quite beautiful but one can actually found a bigger older tree in Bada (thru about 20-30 min rainforest walk which by itself is quite nice).
4. Lastly the main reason we would have skipped Besoa if we do this trip again is because of the poor quality accomodation. The homestay we stayed at in Besoa is way below basic. We have stayed in many homestays in Indonesia but this has been the worst homestay ever. We are not expecting hot water or anything as many homestays in Sulawesi only had cold water, but we were at least expecting clean bedding, yet... we were highly doubtful that the bedding was washed at all, as there was a strong bad odour of oily scalp from the pillow and the mattress. Despite covering the pillow with our own towel and wearing our wind jacket to sleep, we could still smell it. This is how bad and strong the smell was. And the bedroom wall was full of crushed dead mosquitoes. Needless to say, the room was poorly lit and damp. One just would not want to stay in the room, yet siting outside wasn't much better, the courtyard where the room is facing was not clean, there were litters of small candy or snacks packets in the flower bed, on the path and driveway. Last but not least, food provided could have been better, there was one meal where there was 1 small dish of vegetables with instant noodle soups to go with plain rice to share for 4 people (2 of us plus driver and guide). Even our guide was appalled at what they served. (our guide did not know what they would serve and he has not been to Besoa for 3 years due to Covid, so it wasn't his issue, it was the issue of the homestay). Overall it was a substandard travel experience. Right across the road of the homestay was a vast land of beautiful rice fields, there is so much potential to make a clean basic homestay yet this place is just disappointing. Unless the hygiene and food standard of the homestay in Besoa improves, I would not recommend anyone to stay there.
On the other hand, Bada Valley to us would have been a much better choice to have a taste of the megalith and bird watching of Lore Lindu.
1. car journey is much shorter, 3.5hours (60km) from Tentena, there are several places of interest to visit en route- Saluopa Waterfall, stop over to see the pitcher plants, the giant rainbow tree (thru 20-30min rainforest walk).
2. The bird watching and megalith experience is overall better in Bada. We managed to see 5 Red Knobbed Hornbills along Tentena-Bada Valley (we have not seen one during the Besoa 2 days trip), the short walks to different megaliths was very pleasant with nice scenery. Please be aware Tarsiers sightings are mainly in Lake Poso region near Tentena, not in Lore Lindu, please enquire Petrus for sightings.
3. The Homestay (Ningsih homestay) in Bada has very clean room, quite bright and with excellent food. although the room do not provide any view (it faces a small dirt road in the woods) which was a shame given there is such a beautiful valley view everywhere.
4. If one want to go for jungles walk, Bada would have been a better choice too just because most guides actually base at Tentena, they are more familiar with the jungles in Bada rather than Besoa (i.e they know where the birds, animals usually are and all the interesting spots)
Last 2 bits of comment
1.for those who would like to DIY to Bada Valley, I think it is possible if you know Bahasa Indonesian and with own transport and good internet reception (best is Telkomsel) . The only thing to double check is if it is indeed necessary to use a guide to enter Lore Lindu National Park (According to Lonely planet, it is necessary to have a guide to enter Lore Lindu National Park). Throughout the 3.5 days we were in the Park area(there is no distinct National park boundary), the only place where tickets were checked was actually in Tembing lake at Besoa Valley. There werent any ticketing area in Bada Valley that we could see no check points neither in Bada Valley.
By public transport, it would be possible for first half of the journey but not for second half. On our way we saw long haul public bus going from Poso to Bomba (the main village in Bada Valley). So it is possible to get to Bada Valley by public transport, however once you reach Bomba and the homestay there (I think there is only one homestay in Bomba village called Ningsih,sorry i dont have contact no.)
, you will need transport to see the megaliths which scattered around different villages near Bomba village, ranging from several km to 10+ km, walking would seems difficult. I am not sure if it is easy to organise an ojek driver in Bomba. For details one would have to ask someone in Poso/ Tentena. A good contact would have been Noni the manager at Victory Hotel Tentena. Her contact no. should be easily found on google.
There is no reliable internet signal along the entire way from Tentena to Bada valley, so for those who are driving, you will need to ask your way as GPS don't always work.
There is no detailed map marking where exactly the megaliths are on the internet. The only map we saw is a hand drawn map in Ningsih Homestay. Even so, it is not detailed enough to guide you to the megalith, you may only know which village the megalith is close to, the exact location you will have to ask around.
If one can afford, I still would recommend a guide, as they can show you the birds and secret spots for interesting plants and animals, some megaliths are among the woods, without some guidance it would be difficult to find...
2. Cost of a private tour for 2 people.
We organised our tour with Herson at Dolidi guesthouse near Lake Poso. We paid 9.7million idr (650 usd) for a 5D4N trip all inclusive except entrance ticket to Lore Lindu (150k idr per person, once off payment for the 3.5 days we were in the national park) and dinner at Tentena on day 3.
Hope above information is helpful for future travelers who are wanting to visit Lore Lindu. We recommend spending 2-3 days in Bada and a couple of days in Tentena for refreshments. Go for Tarsier sightings with Petrus and chill out along Lake Poso. The megaliths and animals (especially Hornbills) certainly are very unique experience to us.
The guide and driver Herson has organised for us are Agus (the guide) and Poni (the driver). Both are extremely good! Agus is a keen bird watcher and has been a guide in Tentena for 20 years. Although he is very experienced, he is nevertheless very humble, gentle and a very easy going person to hang out with. His English is very fluent, no accent whatsoever (makes it very easy to understand) and he know A LOT about birds and plants. His updated WA contact is as below
+62 813-5485-1349. You can also contact him directly for tour information. if we come back to Bada, we will certainly contact him again.
翻译:我们 1 周前(2023 年 9 月)去了 Lore Lindu 进行了 5 天 4N 的旅行,想与其他旅行者分享我们的想法和评论。互联网上关于组织私人旅游的英文信息非常少。我们花了很多时间试图组织一次价格合理的旅行。对于那些想要自己计划行程的人,可以在 Periplus Travel Guides 的《Sulawesi》一书中找到 Lore Lindu 的详细地图。虽然我们从当地图书馆借来的版本是 2003 年版本,但它包含了相当详细的 Lore Lindu 地图,比孤独星球上印度尼西亚这一地区的地图要好得多。
感谢 TripAdvisor 上的最新评论,我们联系了 WA。帕卢洛雷林杜公园办公室的官员实际上非常乐于助人,他给了我们 4-5 个导游联系方式。不幸的是,官员给我们的所有导游所报的价格远远超出了我们 2 人 5 天 4 夜全包旅游的预算(汽车、1 名司机、1 名导游、入口、全食宿和寄宿家庭)。他们报出的价格从1200美元到2000多美元不等。尽管价格有所不同,但他们都使用相同的住宿(贝索阿和巴达的寄宿家庭数量有限,根据我们的指南 - 贝索阿谷有 2 个,巴达谷有 3 个,这些寄宿家庭质量相似,所以不应该寄宿家庭之间的价格差异很大)。
也许车更好或者导游更专业??我仍然无法看出同一行程的价格差异巨大。
我们5天4夜的行程是这样的,我们从帕卢出发——贝索阿山谷2晚住宿——Tentena 1晚——巴达山谷1晚——Tentena。
这个行程是我们联系的几位导游推荐的。对我们来说,在参观了这两个山谷之后,我们认为如果一个人的主要兴趣是看一些巨石(不是全部)和观鸟(特别是犀鸟),我们最好跳过贝索阿。这样做的原因是
1. 贝索阿有巨石,但主要是卡兰巴斯巨石和一些较小的类人巨石。对于那些对最大的巨石感兴趣的人来说,它就在巴达。除非您真的想看到大型卡兰巴斯,否则不值得 13 小时的旅行(从帕卢到贝索阿 6 小时,然后从贝索阿到坦特纳 7 小时)。对于我们这个外行人(不是人类学家或考古学家)来说,巴达谷其实还有更多种类的巨石——最大的巨石叫帕林多,坐落在美丽稻田中的“水牛石”,又在美丽稻田里的“猴子石”田野(如果有人真的有兴趣的话,猴石附近有几个破碎的卡兰巴)和更多有趣的人类巨石。
2. 除了从 Besoa 到 Tentena 的一小段路(7 小时车程中需要 45 分钟),这条路相当漂亮(有点像穿过沼泽地)
苏格兰或瑞士的松树林),其余景色与Bada-Tentena公路颇为相似。最糟糕的是,与巴达相比,前往贝索阿的游客不多,前往贝索阿的路况(无论是从帕卢还是从坦泰纳)相当崎岖不平。
3. 从Palu到Besoa有几个景点,Tembing湖和Tembing湖附近的largw彩虹树。我们个人觉得 Tembing 湖没什么意思。我们以为这将是一个自然环境优美的湖泊,但我们发现它更像是一个周末度假的地方,这意味着湖前有一个巨大的露营地,有混凝土建筑和设施。这并不是我们从海外千里迢迢来到大自然的期望。风景可以来自任何国家乡村附近的小湖。尽管如此,我们确实在这个地区看到了一些有趣的鸟类/昆虫——悬挂鹦鹉和铁王蝶(Charaxes mars)。彩虹树(Eucalyptus deglupta)非常美丽,但实际上可以在巴达找到一棵更大的老树(通过大约 20-30 分钟的雨林步行,这本身就很不错)。
4. 最后,如果我们再次进行这次旅行,我们会跳过贝索阿的主要原因是住宿质量很差。我们在贝索阿住的寄宿家庭非常简陋。我们在印度尼西亚住过很多寄宿家庭,但这家是有史以来最差的寄宿家庭。我们并不期望有热水或任何东西,因为苏拉威西岛的许多寄宿家庭只有冷水,但我们至少期望干净的床上用品,然而......我们非常怀疑床上用品是否被洗过,因为有很强烈的难闻气味枕头和床垫上的油性头皮。尽管我们用自己的毛巾盖住枕头,穿着风衣睡觉,但我们仍然能闻到它的味道。这就是气味的难闻和强烈。卧室的墙上满是压碎的死蚊子。不用说,房间光线昏暗而且潮湿。人们只是不想呆在房间里,但坐在外面也好不了多少, 房间面向的庭院不干净,花坛、小路和车道上散落着小糖果或零食包。最后但并非最不重要的一点是,提供的食物本来可以更好,有一顿饭有一小盘蔬菜和方便面汤,配上白米饭,可供 4 人分享(我们 2 个人加上司机和导游)。甚至我们的导游也对他们提供的服务感到震惊。 (我们的导游不知道他们会提供什么服务,而且由于新冠肺炎,他已经三年没有去过贝索阿了,所以这不是他的问题,而是寄宿家庭的问题)。总的来说,这是一次不合格的旅行体验。民宿的马路对面是一大片美丽的稻田,有很大的潜力可以打造一个干净的基本民宿,但这个地方却令人失望。除非Besoa民宿的卫生和食品标准有所改善,否则我不会推荐任何人住在那里。
另一方面,巴达谷对我们来说是一个更好的选择,可以欣赏洛尔林杜的巨石和观鸟。
1.车程更短,从Tentena出发3.5小时(60公里),途中有几个景点-萨洛帕瀑布,停下来看看猪笼草,巨型彩虹树(通过20-30分钟的雨林步行) 。
2、观鸟、巨石体验总体来说八达比较好。我们成功地沿着 Tentena-Bada 山谷看到了 5 只红瘤犀鸟(我们在贝索阿 2 天的旅行中没有看到一只),步行不远便可抵达不同的巨石,景色宜人,景色宜人。请注意,眼镜猴的目击事件主要发生在 Tentena 附近的波索湖地区,而不是 Lore Lindu,请向 Petrus 询问目击事件。
3.八达的民宿(宁斯民宿)房间很干净,很明亮,食物也很棒。虽然房间看不到任何景观(它面向树林中的一条小土路),但考虑到到处都有如此美丽的山谷景色,这很遗憾。
4. 如果你想去丛林漫步,巴达也是一个更好的选择,因为大多数导游实际上以Tentena为基地,他们更熟悉巴达的丛林而不是贝索阿(即他们知道鸟类、动物通常在哪里)以及所有有趣的景点)
最后2位评论
1.对于那些想DIY去巴达谷的人,我认为如果你懂印尼语并且有自己的交通工具和良好的网络接收(最好是Telkomsel),这是可能的。唯一需要仔细检查的是是否确实需要使用导游才能进入Lore Lindu国家公园(根据Lonely Planet,进入Lore Lindu国家公园需要有导游)。在我们在公园地区的3.5天里(没有明显的国家公园边界),唯一查票的地方实际上是在Besoa Valley的Tembing湖。巴达谷没有任何售票区,我们在巴达谷也看不到检查站。
乘坐公共交通工具前半程可以,但后半程则不行。在路上,我们看到从波索到邦巴(巴达山谷的主要村庄)的长途公共巴士。所以可以乘坐公共交通工具到达Bada Valley,但是一旦你到达了Bomba和那里的寄宿家庭(我认为Bomba村只有一家寄宿家庭叫Ningsih,抱歉我没有联系方式。)
,你需要交通工具才能看到散布在Bomba村附近不同村庄周围的巨石,范围从几公里到10多公里,步行似乎很困难。我不确定在 Bomba 组织一个 ojek 司机是否容易。有关详细信息,您必须询问波索/坦泰纳的某人。 Victory Hotel Tentena 的经理 Noni 是一个很好的联系人。她的联系方式应该很容易在谷歌上找到。
从 Tentena 到 Bada 山谷的全程没有可靠的互联网信号,因此对于那些开车的人来说,您需要问路,因为 GPS 并不总是有效。
互联网上没有详细的地图标记巨石的确切位置。我们唯一看到的地图是宁思民宿的手绘地图。即便如此,它也不够详细,无法引导你找到巨石,你可能只知道巨石靠近哪个村庄,具体位置你得四处打听。
如果有能力的话,我还是会推荐一个导游,因为他们可以带你参观鸟类和有趣的动植物的秘密地点,一些巨石在树林中,没有一些指导很难找到......
2. 2人私人旅游费用。
我们和赫森一起在波索湖附近的多利迪宾馆组织了我们的旅行。我们支付了 970 万印尼盾(650 美元)的 5 天 4 夜全包旅行,除了 Lore Lindu 门票(每人 15 万印尼盾,我们在国家公园 3.5 天的费用)和第 3 天在 Tentena 的晚餐。
希望以上信息对未来想要前往 Lore Lindu 的旅客有所帮助。 我们建议您在巴达 (Bada) 停留 2-3 天,并在坦特纳 (Tentena) 停留几天,享用茶点。与佩特鲁斯 (Petrus) 一起观赏眼镜猴,并沿着波索湖 (Lake Poso) 放松身心。巨石和动物(尤其是犀鸟)对我们来说无疑是非常独特的体验。
Herson为我们安排的导游兼司机是Agus(导游)和Poni(司机)。两者都非常好! Agus 是一位热衷于观鸟的人,在 Tentena 担任导游已有 20 年。虽然他经验丰富,但他却非常谦虚、温柔,是一个很容易相处的人。他的英语非常流利,没有任何口音(非常容易理解),而且他对鸟类和植物了解很多。他最新的西澳联系方式如下
+62 813-5485-1349。您也可以直接联系他获取旅游信息。如果我们回到八达,我们一定会再次联系他。