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Mike5466
Where lunar like rocks mingle with clouds and life clings to granite ridges
Parc National de l'Andringitra的点评
点评：Andringitra (aka where there are stunted plants) National Park, is where I climbed Chameleon Peak, to see a stunning mosaic of colors and textures in the vast valley below.
The sign at the start of the trail said it would take six hours to complete so that’s what I prepared for mentally, not knowing what was ahead of me. Tonga, my guide was a very young man but knew the plants, animals, and trail very well. The trail is 9.3 km long and you ascend 620 meters. I am not a climber, but a strong hiker (in my late 60’s) and the hike took less than three hours to traverse this near lunar landscape – less than ½ the time posted.
The views from there were stunning and I wished I had the time to climb the famous Pic Boby as well – but alas – the journey had to go on somewhere else. Should I be lucky enough to come back, I’d stay longer to hike Pic Body.
This place felt more like being part of an agricultural village than a national park. Women walking by with colorful dresses and hats, kids with backpacks going to school, boys with nets or buckets going fishing, men working the fields, herders walking their sheep, villagers carrying items they will trade between their two villages: Betsileo and Bara, locals swimming in cool water holes, and zebus roaming where there are no rice fields. There was always some type of activity no matter where I was on these remote trails.
From lush rainforests to sparse high-altitude windy grasslands, it encompasses a variety of ecosystems. This is where I saw the most ringtail lemurs in my travels throughout this wonderful country for over a month. Several plants were in bloom, my guide pointed out small cave like spaces within the rock formations where the herders spend their nights while taking care of their flocks.
I also saw several termite mounds broken open. People harvest the termites to feed their chicks as it is a good source of proteins. The termites can return and fix the mound if the food, humidity, and shelter conditions are still good. People who collect the termites know that and don’t seem to damage the mounds too extensively in hopes the termites return and rebuild them.
When entering the park, we had to stop at an office where you get a guide – they seem to rotate the guides so that everyone has a chance to earn a living. You don’t really get to choose one. When I left for my hike, an additional ‘guide’ suddenly started tagging along offering to carry my backpack. He was quickly rebuffed by my own guide (not the park guide) for doing so and he then disappeared.
I had hoped to meet the man who helped reforest this valley (Jean-Pierre Gauthier) but he had just passed away. I was looking at some of the seedlings popping up near the trails to help reforest while teaching the locals about sustainability. Many of the endemic tree seedlings were dead or stunted so I don’t know how many of the over 700,000 seedlings (so I read but can’t confirm) planted will eventually make it. Either way it's a worthwhile endeavor.
Beautiful, though not easy to access, place – not to miss in my books. Enjoy!
The sign at the start of the trail said it would take six hours to complete so that’s what I prepared for mentally, not knowing what was ahead of me. Tonga, my guide was a very young man but knew the plants, animals, and trail very well. The trail is 9.3 km long and you ascend 620 meters. I am not a climber, but a strong hiker (in my late 60’s) and the hike took less than three hours to traverse this near lunar landscape – less than ½ the time posted.
The views from there were stunning and I wished I had the time to climb the famous Pic Boby as well – but alas – the journey had to go on somewhere else. Should I be lucky enough to come back, I’d stay longer to hike Pic Body.
This place felt more like being part of an agricultural village than a national park. Women walking by with colorful dresses and hats, kids with backpacks going to school, boys with nets or buckets going fishing, men working the fields, herders walking their sheep, villagers carrying items they will trade between their two villages: Betsileo and Bara, locals swimming in cool water holes, and zebus roaming where there are no rice fields. There was always some type of activity no matter where I was on these remote trails.
From lush rainforests to sparse high-altitude windy grasslands, it encompasses a variety of ecosystems. This is where I saw the most ringtail lemurs in my travels throughout this wonderful country for over a month. Several plants were in bloom, my guide pointed out small cave like spaces within the rock formations where the herders spend their nights while taking care of their flocks.
I also saw several termite mounds broken open. People harvest the termites to feed their chicks as it is a good source of proteins. The termites can return and fix the mound if the food, humidity, and shelter conditions are still good. People who collect the termites know that and don’t seem to damage the mounds too extensively in hopes the termites return and rebuild them.
When entering the park, we had to stop at an office where you get a guide – they seem to rotate the guides so that everyone has a chance to earn a living. You don’t really get to choose one. When I left for my hike, an additional ‘guide’ suddenly started tagging along offering to carry my backpack. He was quickly rebuffed by my own guide (not the park guide) for doing so and he then disappeared.
I had hoped to meet the man who helped reforest this valley (Jean-Pierre Gauthier) but he had just passed away. I was looking at some of the seedlings popping up near the trails to help reforest while teaching the locals about sustainability. Many of the endemic tree seedlings were dead or stunted so I don’t know how many of the over 700,000 seedlings (so I read but can’t confirm) planted will eventually make it. Either way it's a worthwhile endeavor.
Beautiful, though not easy to access, place – not to miss in my books. Enjoy!
翻译：安德林吉特拉国家公园（又称“植物生长稀疏之地”）就是我攀登变色龙峰的地方。从山顶俯瞰，下方广袤的山谷呈现出色彩与纹理交织的绝美景象。
山路起点处的指示牌称全程需要六小时才能走完，因此我在心理上也做好了这样的准备，尽管对前路的情况一无所知。我的向导通加虽然非常年轻，却对这里的植物、动物以及路线了如指掌。这条山路全长9.3公里，海拔上升了620米。我并非登山爱好者。不过我是个体力不错的徒步爱好者（60多岁了），这次穿越这片宛如月球表面的地带只花了不到三个小时——还不到官方所标时间的一半。
从那里看到的景色美得令人窒息，我真希望有时间也能去攀登著名的博比峰——可惜的是，我还要前往其他地方。如果还有机会再来，我一定会多待些时间去攀登博比峰。
这里给人的感觉更像是一个农业村落，而非国家公园。穿着色彩鲜艳连衣裙、戴着帽子的妇女们漫步而过；背着书包的孩子们去上学；男孩们拿着网或桶去钓鱼；男人们在田地里劳作；牧羊人赶着羊群；村民们则带着准备在贝齐雷奥村与巴拉村之间交换的物品。当地人则在清凉的水潭中游泳，而没有稻田的地方则有水牛四处闲逛。无论我身处这些偏僻小径的何处，总能看到各种人们在忙碌着。从茂密的热带雨林到人烟稀少的、多风的高海拔草原，这里包含了多种多样的生态系统。在我在这个美丽的国度旅行的一个多月里，我是在这里看到了最多的环尾狐猴。当时有不少植物正在开花；我的向导还指给我看岩石群中那些类似小洞穴的空处，牧民们夜间便会在那里照料他们的羊群。
我还看到了好几个被破坏的白蚁丘。人们采集白蚁来喂养雏鸟，因为白蚁是优质的蛋白质来源。如果食物、湿度和庇护条件依然适宜，白蚁便会重新返回并修复蚁丘。采集白蚁的人也明白这一点，因此他们并不会过度破坏蚁丘，希望白蚁能重新回来重建家园。
进入公园时，我们必须先在一间办公室稍作停留以领取向导服务——看来他们会轮换安排向导，好让每个人都有机会谋生。其实你没法选择向导。我出发去徒步时，突然有个“额外的向导”跟了上来，还主动要帮我背背包。不过他很快就被我的真正向导（并非公园的官方向导）喝止了，随后便消失了。
我原本希望能见到那位帮助恢复这片山谷植被的人（让-皮埃尔·戈蒂耶），但他刚好刚刚去世。我正看着小径旁冒出的那些幼苗——它们有助于森林再生，而我也在借此机会向当地人传授可持续发展的知识。许多本地树种的幼苗已经死亡或生长不良，因此我不确定在种植的70多万株幼苗中，最终能存活下来的有多少（这一数字是我看到的，但无法核实）。无论如何，这都是一项值得做的努力。
这是个风景优美但难以抵达的地方——在我看来绝对不容错过。尽情享受吧！
山路起点处的指示牌称全程需要六小时才能走完，因此我在心理上也做好了这样的准备，尽管对前路的情况一无所知。我的向导通加虽然非常年轻，却对这里的植物、动物以及路线了如指掌。这条山路全长9.3公里，海拔上升了620米。我并非登山爱好者。不过我是个体力不错的徒步爱好者（60多岁了），这次穿越这片宛如月球表面的地带只花了不到三个小时——还不到官方所标时间的一半。
从那里看到的景色美得令人窒息，我真希望有时间也能去攀登著名的博比峰——可惜的是，我还要前往其他地方。如果还有机会再来，我一定会多待些时间去攀登博比峰。
这里给人的感觉更像是一个农业村落，而非国家公园。穿着色彩鲜艳连衣裙、戴着帽子的妇女们漫步而过；背着书包的孩子们去上学；男孩们拿着网或桶去钓鱼；男人们在田地里劳作；牧羊人赶着羊群；村民们则带着准备在贝齐雷奥村与巴拉村之间交换的物品。当地人则在清凉的水潭中游泳，而没有稻田的地方则有水牛四处闲逛。无论我身处这些偏僻小径的何处，总能看到各种人们在忙碌着。从茂密的热带雨林到人烟稀少的、多风的高海拔草原，这里包含了多种多样的生态系统。在我在这个美丽的国度旅行的一个多月里，我是在这里看到了最多的环尾狐猴。当时有不少植物正在开花；我的向导还指给我看岩石群中那些类似小洞穴的空处，牧民们夜间便会在那里照料他们的羊群。
我还看到了好几个被破坏的白蚁丘。人们采集白蚁来喂养雏鸟，因为白蚁是优质的蛋白质来源。如果食物、湿度和庇护条件依然适宜，白蚁便会重新返回并修复蚁丘。采集白蚁的人也明白这一点，因此他们并不会过度破坏蚁丘，希望白蚁能重新回来重建家园。
进入公园时，我们必须先在一间办公室稍作停留以领取向导服务——看来他们会轮换安排向导，好让每个人都有机会谋生。其实你没法选择向导。我出发去徒步时，突然有个“额外的向导”跟了上来，还主动要帮我背背包。不过他很快就被我的真正向导（并非公园的官方向导）喝止了，随后便消失了。
我原本希望能见到那位帮助恢复这片山谷植被的人（让-皮埃尔·戈蒂耶），但他刚好刚刚去世。我正看着小径旁冒出的那些幼苗——它们有助于森林再生，而我也在借此机会向当地人传授可持续发展的知识。许多本地树种的幼苗已经死亡或生长不良，因此我不确定在种植的70多万株幼苗中，最终能存活下来的有多少（这一数字是我看到的，但无法核实）。无论如何，这都是一项值得做的努力。
这是个风景优美但难以抵达的地方——在我看来绝对不容错过。尽情享受吧！
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