点评:We did two tours with these guys on successive days, and our experiences were night and day. One was absolutely excellent (Tanikely+ Sakatia) oand the other was perhaps the most frustrating boat trip we've done (Iranja). The overall rating reflects this great (five star) and really poor (1 star) experience. I try to be as detailed as I can regarding the negative experience because these frustrations may well be of limited applicability.
Iranja
I'm rather a nerd, so we'd actually organised an offshore day, starting to book it with Randeau 7months in advance. In order to guarantee the trip, we had said we'd cover the minimum four seats required, despite just being two people.
Anyway, a little under 24hrs before we were due to depart, they cancelled the trip owing to mechanical issues with a boat, and instead offered to put us on a Nosy Iranja trip (still 45km each way of travel). It has to be said, one boat did stay in the harbour all day both days, so there may well have been a mechanical fault. Nonetheless, they did not offer to move the trip to the following day (when one functional boat seemed to remain in harbour all day), they only gave us 24h notice (it is possible this is when the fault happened, although seems unlikely and gave us basically no time to arrange an alternative), and they also did not explain that they had made the decision to cancel one of their longest standing bookings in favour of more heavily booked - and therefore more lucrative - excursions. Of course, doing so is entirely fair, they would have otherwise had to disappoint more people, but by not being so transparent it felt somewhat like "the dog ate my homework".
Given the account that follows, I really wish we'd organised the whale watching boat trip through our guide for the rest of the trip, Patrick Richard, who can organise a day's boat charter for in the same ballpark cost as four seats with Baleines Randeau on the offshore day.
Our frustrations with the trip itself stem from the guide simply dismissing almost everything we spotted as "wake"... Despite the conditions being near glassy calm with only a very slight swell and no wind (so no small crests, peaks or white horses).
First, there was what we're certain was an Omura's whale. As well as both of us seeing it, so did another passenger all of us the best placed to see. We all said whale instantly. Indeed, I got a good view through binoculars when we were about 500-750m away. I saw it's back arch before seeing a very clear falcate dorsal fin, it's colour distinctly greyer than the water and much more satin/matt than the glossy water. It was a small rorqual whale, looking just like a minke or Bryde's (neither seen in the area). Unfortunately, our guide was busy talking to another client, and the captain did not see it. We made clear we'd seen something and pointed exactly where but there was no stopping, the guide saying it was a wave.
Second, the three of us (we were best placed/the only clients dedicated to looking) saw what again looked like a whale surfacing. This time quite a lot further off (about 2km) and I only got brief and quite poor binocular views (IE could not easily tell colour), so I am less sure about this, although I am confident it was not a wave. (I had thought it could have been a floating log, so looked hard for it simply drifting on, but it did not, so was not a log, either).
It is perhaps worth noting that most tourists, as the guide had previously explained when I had asked about Omura's whales as we left harbour, and well before any sighting, are not interested in seeing this species. They can be very subtle, showing at most blowhole through to dorsal fin while surfacing, and can easily slip away very quickly and discreetly when not feeding, so are hard to relocate... Certainly showy and much larger humpbacks are much more of a priority for commercial operations, but nonetheless not stopping seems bizarre.
The third non-stop was a patch of white water which emerged at about 1.5-2km away to our right. The other guest and I saw this, I got bins up to see fins coming through the white water, but again no stopping despite our pointing it out. Again, the guide, who was still talking to the same client, missed it, and the captain looking straight ahead did not see it, either (absolutely fair enough!). However, when I described where it was, it was deemed to be wake, despite no boat in the vicinity and no white water at all other than the stuff immediately trailing boats at this stage (the wind picked up for the afternoon when white horses therefore became quite common and spotting far harder). These could well have been large fish rather than a smallish pod of dolphins, but we will never know.
Only the fourth time, when I spotted something breaking the surface repeatedly at about 3km with birds feeding overhead did we investigate, through our sister ship. Even then, it took about 5 minutes of insisting there really was something there beneath the surface as well as above, and giving my binoculars to the guide to see for himself, for us to be believed. As it transpired, they were large bonito breaking the surface.
On the return leg very close to harbour we had brilliant views of indo pacific bottlenose dolphin (initially found by another boat).
Tanikely and Sakatia
This trip was exceptional. The coral itself is not particularly vibrant, but the diversity of fishes is incredible, plus both Hawksbill (Tanikely) and green (Sakatia) turtles and a stunning nudibranch or sea slug.
Huge thanks have to go to our guide for this trip, Guillaume, and the captain (whose name I have forgotten - sorry!). Both really were excellent. First, Guillaume made sure to always explain everything first in french (for the majority) but immediately after and without prompting for the English speakers. Second, he had brilliant eyes both above and below the surface, e.g. when a turtle quickly came up and then dived about 50-100m from the stern of the boat he got really decent views; and in finding extremely well camouflaged stingrays and crocodile fish when snorkelling. Finally, both Guillaume and the captain were interested in knowing what we wanted to see and what we had seen. This included Guillaume going out of his way to find Hawksbill turtles and answering questions on Tanikely's bats (they're Madagascan flying fox, but hard to see), and the captain looking out after I pointed out a splash, despite me saying I thought it was just a large-ish fish. We highly recommend this trip - absolutely stellar!!
翻译:我们连续几天和他们一起参加了两次旅行,体验简直天壤之别。一次非常棒(Tanikely+Sakatia),另一次可能是我们经历过的最令人沮丧的游船之旅(Iranja)。总体评分反映了这次很棒的(五星)和非常糟糕(一星)的体验。我尽量详细地描述这次负面体验,因为这些令人沮丧的地方可能并不适用。
Iranja
我是个书呆子,所以我们实际上组织了一次离岸一日游,提前7个月就开始通过Randeau预订了。为了保证成行,我们承诺会预订至少四个座位,尽管我们只有两个人。
总之,在我们出发前不到24小时,他们因为船的机械故障取消了行程,而是建议我们参加诺西·伊兰贾之旅(单程仍然45公里)。不得不说,有一艘船两天都停在港口里一整天,所以很可能是机械故障。然而,他们并没有提出将行程改到第二天(当时有一艘能正常使用的船似乎整天都停在港口里),他们只提前24小时通知了我们(故障可能就是在那时发生的,虽然可能性不大,而且我们几乎没有时间安排其他行程),他们也没有解释为什么他们决定取消一个持续时间最长的预订,转而选择预订更频繁、因此也更划算的短途旅行。当然,这样做完全公平,否则他们可能会让更多人失望,但这种不透明的做法感觉有点像“狗吃了我的作业”。
考虑到接下来的叙述,我真希望我们通过导游帕特里克·理查德(Patrick Richard)安排观鲸船之旅,因为他可以安排一天的包船,费用大约相当于在离岸当天在Baleines Randeau预订四张船票的费用。
我们对这次旅行本身感到沮丧,是因为导游几乎把我们看到的所有东西都归结为“尾流”……尽管当时海面平静如镜,只有轻微的涌浪,而且没有风(所以没有小浪峰、山峰或白马)。
首先,我们看到了一头我们确信是大村鲸的鲸鱼。我们俩都看到了,另一位站在最佳位置的乘客也看到了。我们立刻就说那是鲸鱼。事实上,当我们距离它大约500-750米时,我用双筒望远镜清晰地看到了它。我看到了它拱起的背部,然后看到了一个非常清晰的镰状背鳍,它的颜色明显比海水更灰,也比光滑的海水更像缎子/哑光。那是一头小型须鲸,看起来就像小须鲸或布氏鲸(这两种鲸鱼在该地区都未见过)。不幸的是,我们的导游正忙着和另一位顾客交谈,船长没有看到它。我们明确表示看到了什么,并指出了确切位置,但导游没有停下来,说那是海浪。
其次,我们三个人(我们位置最好/是唯一专心致志于观察的客人)再次看到了类似鲸鱼浮出水面的景象。这次距离很远(大约2公里),我只能用双目望远镜短暂地看到,而且视野很差(也就是说,我看不清颜色),所以我对此不太确定,尽管我确信那不是海浪。(我原以为那可能是一根漂浮的木头,所以努力寻找它随波逐流,但事实并非如此,所以也不是木头。)
或许值得注意的是,正如导游之前在我离开港口时,也就是在看到任何鲸鱼之前询问大村鲸的情况时解释的那样,大多数游客对观看这种物种并不感兴趣。它们可能非常隐蔽,浮出水面时最多只露出从喷水孔到背鳍的部分,不进食时很容易迅速悄悄地溜走,所以很难重新定位……当然,体型更大、更显眼的座头鲸在商业捕捞中更受青睐,但即便如此,它们不停下来似乎也有些奇怪。
第三次不停顿的漂流是一片白水,它出现在我们右侧约1.5-2公里处。我和另一位客人看到了这一幕,我拿起水箱想看看鱼鳍是否从白水中冒出来,但尽管我们指出了这一点,它还是没有停下来。导游当时还在和同一个客人说话,所以又错过了,船长直视前方也没有看到(这绝对公平!)。然而,当我描述它的位置时,它被认为是尾流,尽管此时附近没有船,除了紧跟在船后面的东西之外根本没有白水(下午风力增强,因此白马变得相当常见,发现它们也更加困难)。这些很可能是大型鱼类,而不是一小群海豚,但我们永远无法确定。
直到第四次,当我在大约3公里处看到有东西反复浮出水面,头顶上有鸟儿在觅食时,我们才通过我们的姊妹船进行调查。即便如此,我花了大约5分钟的时间坚持说水面之下和水面之下真的有东西,并把我的双筒望远镜递给导游让他亲眼看看,好让我们相信。结果发现,那是露出水面的大型鲣鱼。
在回程靠近港口的地方,我们欣赏到了印度太平洋宽吻海豚的壮丽景色(最初是由另一艘船发现的)。
塔尼克利岛和萨卡蒂亚岛
这次旅行非常棒。珊瑚本身并不特别鲜艳,但鱼类的多样性令人难以置信,还有玳瑁(塔尼克利岛)和绿海龟(萨卡蒂亚岛)以及令人惊叹的裸鳃类动物或海蛞蝓。
非常感谢我们这次旅行的导游Guillaume和船长(我忘了他的名字——抱歉!)。他们真的非常出色。首先,Guillaume确保首先用法语(对大多数人来说)解释所有内容,然后立即用法语解释,并且不会提示英语使用者。其次,他无论在水面上还是水下都目光敏锐。例如,当一只海龟快速浮出水面,然后潜入距离船尾约50-100米的地方时,他都能捕捉到非常清晰的景象;浮潜时,他还能发现伪装得极其巧妙的黄貂鱼和鳄鱼鱼。最后,Guillaume和船长都很想知道我们想看什么,以及我们已经看到了什么。这其中包括Guillaume特意去寻找玳瑁海龟,并解答关于塔尼克利蝙蝠(它们是马达加斯加狐蝠,但很难看到)的问题;还有,当我指出水花飞溅时,船长也向外张望,尽管我当时说我以为那只是一条体型较大的鱼。我们强烈推荐这次旅行——绝对精彩!