点评:For those interested in offbeat history, a stunning little museum. Who would have imagined that a madcap young Englishman, sailing a yacht his father bought him, having read one book about this island, would end up starting a dynasty that ruled Sarawak for over 100 years -- all while also going back and forth to row for Cambridge, go fox hunting and otherwise act like the cast of Downton Abbey? James Brooke rocked up here in 1839 and cut a deal with the local governor appointed by far-off Brunei: if he could use his yacht's six cannon and his military experience to defeat the Filipino pirates, local headhunters and chiefs rebelling against Brunei, could he have the crown? He did, and became rajah. After that, rule passed to a nephew and then his sons, and they handled it fairly well, bringing locals into the ruling council, not creating a British elite, promulgating fair trade, and trying to enforce the laws equally on all ethnic groups (albeit while crushing rebellions and expanding their empire to include most of Borneo). They also played host to visiting scientists, including Alfred Wallace, Darwin's rival in expounding the shocking new theory of evolution. The Brookes were ultimately overthrown by the Japanese, who invaded one day after Pearl Harbor. They tried and failed to make a post-war comeback, and Sarawak became part of Malaysia. The museum is full of odd artifacts, from captured pirate swords to a stuffed badger from the family's crest. I spent two hours here, then crossed the river to see the Ranee Museum, dedicated to the 19-year-old French-British girl who married the second-generation Brooke rajah, moved here, fell in love with the place, championed local arts and crafts and became a talented photographer, preserving the island's history. The view from the top of the fort is impressive, although the stairs up to it are tough on aging knees.
翻译:对于那些对另类历史感兴趣的人来说,这是一个令人惊叹的小型博物馆。谁能想到,一个疯狂的英国年轻人,读过一本关于这个岛屿的书,驾驶着父亲给他买的游艇,最终建立了一个统治砂拉越超过百年的王朝——同时还要往返于剑桥大学划船、猎狐,或者像《唐顿庄园》里的演员一样四处奔波?1839年,詹姆斯·布鲁克来到这里,与远在文莱的当地总督达成协议:如果他能利用游艇上的六门大炮和丰富的军事经验,击败菲律宾海盗、当地猎头人和反抗文莱的酋长,他就能成为王位继承人吗?他如愿以偿,成为了拉贾。此后,统治权传给了一个侄子,然后是他的儿子们。他们处理得相当好,让当地人进入执政委员会,没有打造英国精英阶层,推行公平贸易,并试图对所有族群一视同仁地执行法律(尽管与此同时镇压了叛乱,并将帝国扩张到婆罗洲大部分地区)。他们还接待了来访的科学家,包括阿尔弗雷德·华莱士,他是达尔文在阐述令人震惊的新进化论方面的对手。布鲁克家族最终被珍珠港事件后一天入侵的日本人推翻。他们试图在战后东山再起,但失败了,砂拉越也成为了马来西亚的一部分。博物馆里摆满了稀奇古怪的文物,从缴获的海盗剑到家族徽章上的獾标本。我在这里待了两个小时,然后过河去参观拉尼博物馆。这座博物馆是为了纪念一位19岁的法英混血女孩而建。她嫁给了第二代布鲁克·拉贾,搬到这里后爱上了这里,并开始支持当地的手工艺,最终成为一名才华横溢的摄影师,守护着这座岛屿的历史。从堡垒顶部俯瞰,景色令人叹为观止,尽管爬上去的楼梯对年迈的膝盖来说有些吃力。