点评:WARNING to self-driving tourists. This place is probably ok for bus tourism (airport-hotel-beach-bar) but it's definitely not friendly, or even safe, for self-driving in national parks and nature reserves.
First of all, reserve has security issues in general, it seems. During 3 days of driving inside the Maputo Special Reserve (aka Parque Nacional de Maputo), not a single ranger was seen on duty in the field. Instead, we did see some dodgy looking guys, definitely not tourists or park workers. Animals are scarce, a sign of frequent poaching. Not a big variety too: we saw standard antelopes, giraffes, warthogs, and elephant's poo.
Park management and officers are absolute sharks, they focus not on poachers but on drivers, and apply exorbitant fines even for small infringements. Our neighbors on a campsite in the Parque Nacional de Maputo parked their car on a sand spot with some vegetation and plastic rubbish. Promptly they were given a fine 40000 meticals (10000 rand or 500 eur), for "driving on dunes". Their passports and car keys were confiscated until they paid. They never received any payment receipt either ("no electricity at the moment, come later"), so it's quite clear where did their money go.
Some cars are getting searched from top to bottom, without any warrant or explanation. Rangers go through every piece of luggage, so don't bring anything which can be considered illegal in national park. (God knows what can be considered illegal in national parks at any given moment).
Restaurant food is below average in terms of quality, yet it's more expensive than in neighboring countries.
翻译:自驾游客须知。这个地方或许适合乘坐巴士旅游(机场-酒店-海滩-酒吧),但对于在国家公园和自然保护区内自驾,这里绝对不友好,甚至不安全。
首先,保护区似乎普遍存在安全问题。在马普托特别保护区(又名马普托国家公园)内行驶的三天里,我们没看到任何一位护林员在野外值班。相反,我们看到了一些看起来很可疑的人,肯定不是游客或公园工作人员。动物数量稀少,这表明偷猎活动频繁。种类也不多:我们看到了普通的羚羊、长颈鹿、疣猪和象粪。
公园管理人员和官员绝对是鲨鱼,他们关注的不是偷猎者,而是司机,即使是轻微的违规行为也会处以高额罚款。我们在马普托国家公园露营地的邻居把车停在了一片植被和塑料垃圾遍布的沙地上。他们很快就被罚款40000梅蒂卡尔(10000兰特或500欧元),理由是“在沙丘上驾驶”。他们的护照和车钥匙被没收,直到他们付款为止。他们也没有收到任何付款收据(“目前没电,晚点再来”),所以他们的钱去了哪里一目了然。
有些车子被从上到下搜查,没有任何搜查令或解释。护林员会检查每件行李,所以不要携带任何在国家公园被视为非法的东西。(天知道什么时候在国家公园里什么会被视为非法)。
餐厅的食物质量低于平均水平,但价格却比邻国贵。