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Paestum Archaeological Park
Parco Archeologico di Paestum的点评
点评：Greece may have the Parthenon but Paestum has three of the best preserved Greek temples in the world. Founded originally by the Greeks as a Greek colonization expansion project called Magna Grecia. They settled not so far from today’s Salerno and called their colony Poseidonia after the god Poseidon and its proximity to the ocean, which over the millennia has given way to solid land, although the sea isn’t that far away. The Romans who came later renamed it Paestum and name that has stayed.
The town flourished from sometime during 6th century BCE as a Greek settlement until it was abandoned in the Middle Ages due to changes in trade routes, Saracen raids and high rates of malaria and disease along with many deaths, caused by swampy conditions. After it was abandoned, nature took over hiding the buildings from view and preserving them. I would have thought that folklore surrounding the district would have labelled it a place of bad humours and death, somewhere people didn’t want to inhabit, somewhere that over time it became forgotten.
What we see today is only about half the original site. This was discovered when the current road beside the archaeological park was being cut through during the 1930s. It was noticed that the ruins continued further to the east but by that time there were many buildings on top of the old settlement and it was decided not to excavate under these. Instead, today we experience these beautiful temples and Roman ruins encompassing the forum, amphitheatre and scattered remains of shops and dwellings which have been uncovered while the rest of the site has been left to slumber. Excavation didn’t start in earnest until 20th century.
To lead our exploration, we had Sylvie as our guide. She is a qualified archaeologist and was able to explain finer details on the sites, like showing me how some of the pillars of the temples had been repaired by cutting out weak or crumbling stone and replacing it with perfectly carved replacements. Unless you knew what to look for you wouldn’t even notice.
As I have mentioned there are three temples in the park. The one at most southern end was dedicated to Hera. This is the only temple that they can be absolutely sure of its dedication thanks to inscriptions to Hera on the temple and the significant votive offerings relating to her that have been found. This is the oldest of the temples built around 550BCE. It still has its columns standing but only a few pieces of the architrave that would have supported the roof.
In the patch of land between the first and second temple is a fabulous statue of a horse. While it may look like the type of figure you would find on Greek pottery it’s actually a recent work by the artist Mimmo Paladino. The piece is named “The Sand Horse” owing to its composition of local sand, iron and resin. Although it is a modern piece, I don’t think it looks out of place where it is situated. Now if they had put it in the Roman ruin section of Paestum, it definitely would look out of place.
The temple closest to Hera’s temple is known by various names, the Temple of Neptune, Apollo or maybe even an updated temple to Hera, therefore Hera II. The reason for the uncertainty is because they haven’t found anything archaeologically that points or links to one specific god. This temple dates to around 450BCE, it is the newest build of the three and sits between Hera’s original temple and another one at the northern end of the park.
This temple is the most intact. It still has the crepidoma, the stepped platform that forms the base on which the temple is built. It is possible to climb these steps and walk around the outer aisles of the temple but you can’t go right inside, that area is roped off. Just to be able to walk the aisles allows a good idea of the temple’s layout.
Although missing its roof, the temple still has the architraves, frieze and cornice along with the triangle shaped pediment at the front. For a building that has stood nearly 2,500 years its in pretty good shape. For me it was a thrill to wander around the site.
In front of the middle temple are the remains of the Greek agora (central square/forum), look for the limestone blocks. Visible when walking along the park’s fenced boundary is half of the well preserved Greek ekklesiasterion, the other half is under the road. While an ekklesia may look like a Roman amphitheatre, it isn’t, its use was different. An ekklesiasterion was a public area used for meetings and political discussions, something more akin to an open air Roman basilica.
Between these two temples and the one at the northern end is the Roman settlement. Here you can see the remains of the forum, shops, dwellings and the amphitheatre. This part of the park might require a bit of imagination to get your bearings and understand what’s there.
The temple at the far end of the park is often referred to as the Temple of Athena or Ceres, again there is no certainty which deity it was dedicated to. It was built timewise in between Hera’s original temple and the one that now stands next to Hera’s temple. What archaeologist have been able to clarify though is that this temple was used as church in a later period because there are three graves in the floor of the temple.
Paestum archaeological park isn’t huge and is flat, except for slight down slope after the ticket office, although it’s not a steep decline. The only steps I remember are 4 that allow access to the Temple of Neptune/Apollo/Hera II, but they are quite high. I have hip troubles but was able to ascend and descend by choosing my path carefully. Even if you couldn't get up the steps you still have a pretty good view of the structure.
Paestum could perhaps an alternative or compliment to the more commercial Pompeii. Sure, it doesn’t have the scale of Pompeii, and the Roman section isn’t in the same state of repair as Pompeii but then again it doesn’t have the crowds either as it is off the beaten tourist path.
You could easily spend a couple of hours here wandering around exploring.
There is a small museum across the road from the park with finds from the site on display, some are very beautiful and in excellent condition.
When you have finished there are some local cafes if you are in need of refreshments.
The town flourished from sometime during 6th century BCE as a Greek settlement until it was abandoned in the Middle Ages due to changes in trade routes, Saracen raids and high rates of malaria and disease along with many deaths, caused by swampy conditions. After it was abandoned, nature took over hiding the buildings from view and preserving them. I would have thought that folklore surrounding the district would have labelled it a place of bad humours and death, somewhere people didn’t want to inhabit, somewhere that over time it became forgotten.
What we see today is only about half the original site. This was discovered when the current road beside the archaeological park was being cut through during the 1930s. It was noticed that the ruins continued further to the east but by that time there were many buildings on top of the old settlement and it was decided not to excavate under these. Instead, today we experience these beautiful temples and Roman ruins encompassing the forum, amphitheatre and scattered remains of shops and dwellings which have been uncovered while the rest of the site has been left to slumber. Excavation didn’t start in earnest until 20th century.
To lead our exploration, we had Sylvie as our guide. She is a qualified archaeologist and was able to explain finer details on the sites, like showing me how some of the pillars of the temples had been repaired by cutting out weak or crumbling stone and replacing it with perfectly carved replacements. Unless you knew what to look for you wouldn’t even notice.
As I have mentioned there are three temples in the park. The one at most southern end was dedicated to Hera. This is the only temple that they can be absolutely sure of its dedication thanks to inscriptions to Hera on the temple and the significant votive offerings relating to her that have been found. This is the oldest of the temples built around 550BCE. It still has its columns standing but only a few pieces of the architrave that would have supported the roof.
In the patch of land between the first and second temple is a fabulous statue of a horse. While it may look like the type of figure you would find on Greek pottery it’s actually a recent work by the artist Mimmo Paladino. The piece is named “The Sand Horse” owing to its composition of local sand, iron and resin. Although it is a modern piece, I don’t think it looks out of place where it is situated. Now if they had put it in the Roman ruin section of Paestum, it definitely would look out of place.
The temple closest to Hera’s temple is known by various names, the Temple of Neptune, Apollo or maybe even an updated temple to Hera, therefore Hera II. The reason for the uncertainty is because they haven’t found anything archaeologically that points or links to one specific god. This temple dates to around 450BCE, it is the newest build of the three and sits between Hera’s original temple and another one at the northern end of the park.
This temple is the most intact. It still has the crepidoma, the stepped platform that forms the base on which the temple is built. It is possible to climb these steps and walk around the outer aisles of the temple but you can’t go right inside, that area is roped off. Just to be able to walk the aisles allows a good idea of the temple’s layout.
Although missing its roof, the temple still has the architraves, frieze and cornice along with the triangle shaped pediment at the front. For a building that has stood nearly 2,500 years its in pretty good shape. For me it was a thrill to wander around the site.
In front of the middle temple are the remains of the Greek agora (central square/forum), look for the limestone blocks. Visible when walking along the park’s fenced boundary is half of the well preserved Greek ekklesiasterion, the other half is under the road. While an ekklesia may look like a Roman amphitheatre, it isn’t, its use was different. An ekklesiasterion was a public area used for meetings and political discussions, something more akin to an open air Roman basilica.
Between these two temples and the one at the northern end is the Roman settlement. Here you can see the remains of the forum, shops, dwellings and the amphitheatre. This part of the park might require a bit of imagination to get your bearings and understand what’s there.
The temple at the far end of the park is often referred to as the Temple of Athena or Ceres, again there is no certainty which deity it was dedicated to. It was built timewise in between Hera’s original temple and the one that now stands next to Hera’s temple. What archaeologist have been able to clarify though is that this temple was used as church in a later period because there are three graves in the floor of the temple.
Paestum archaeological park isn’t huge and is flat, except for slight down slope after the ticket office, although it’s not a steep decline. The only steps I remember are 4 that allow access to the Temple of Neptune/Apollo/Hera II, but they are quite high. I have hip troubles but was able to ascend and descend by choosing my path carefully. Even if you couldn't get up the steps you still have a pretty good view of the structure.
Paestum could perhaps an alternative or compliment to the more commercial Pompeii. Sure, it doesn’t have the scale of Pompeii, and the Roman section isn’t in the same state of repair as Pompeii but then again it doesn’t have the crowds either as it is off the beaten tourist path.
You could easily spend a couple of hours here wandering around exploring.
There is a small museum across the road from the park with finds from the site on display, some are very beautiful and in excellent condition.
When you have finished there are some local cafes if you are in need of refreshments.
翻译：希腊或许拥有帕特农神庙，但帕埃斯图姆拥有世界上保存最完好的三座希腊神庙。帕埃斯图姆最初由希腊人建立，作为一项名为“大希腊”（Magna Grecia）的希腊殖民扩张项目。他们定居在距离今天的萨勒诺不远的地方，并以海神波塞冬和其靠近海洋的地理位置将他们的殖民地命名为波塞冬尼亚（Poseidonia）。尽管大海距离这里并不遥远，但几千年来，海洋逐渐变成了陆地。后来迁徙的罗马人将其改名为帕埃斯图姆，并沿用至今。
该镇从公元前六世纪的某个时候开始作为希腊人的定居点而繁荣起来，直到中世纪由于贸易路线的变化、撒拉逊人的袭击以及沼泽地造成的疟疾和疾病高发以及大量死亡而被废弃。废弃后，大自然接管了它，遮蔽了建筑物，并将它们保存了下来。我原以为，围绕着这个地区的民间传说会把它标榜为一个充满恶趣和死亡的地方，一个人们不愿居住的地方，一个随着时间的推移而被遗忘的地方。
我们今天看到的只是原址的大约一半。这是在20世纪30年代，考古公园旁边的道路被开辟时发现的。人们注意到，遗址继续向东延伸，但那时，旧定居点的顶部已经有许多建筑，因此决定不在这些建筑下方进行挖掘。如今，我们看到的是这些美丽的神庙和罗马遗迹，包括广场、圆形剧场以及散落的商店和住宅遗迹，这些遗迹已被发现，而遗址的其余部分则处于沉睡状态。挖掘工作直到20世纪才正式开始。
我们请了西尔维担任向导，带领我们进行探索。她是一位合格的考古学家，能够详细解释遗址的细节，比如向我展示了一些神庙的柱子是如何被修复的：他们切掉脆弱或破碎的石头，并用雕刻精美的替代品替换。除非你知道要寻找什么，否则你根本不会注意到。
正如我之前提到的，公园里有三座神庙。最南端的神庙是献给赫拉的。这座神庙是唯一一座可以完全确定其供奉的神庙，这要归功于神庙上关于赫拉的铭文以及已发现的与她相关的重要还愿祭品。这是建于公元前550年左右的最古老的神庙。它的柱子仍然屹立不倒，但支撑屋顶的额楣只剩下几块残片。
在第一座神庙和第二座神庙之间的一块土地上，有一座精美的马雕像。虽然它看起来像希腊陶器上的那种雕像，但它实际上是艺术家米莫·帕拉迪诺的近期作品。这件作品因其由当地沙子、铁和树脂组成而被命名为“沙马”。虽然这是一件现代作品，但我认为它与它所在的位置并无二致。如果把它放在帕埃斯图姆的罗马遗址区，绝对会显得格格不入。
距离赫拉神庙最近的神庙有各种名称，比如海王星神庙、阿波罗神庙，甚至可能是赫拉神庙的升级版，因此被称为赫拉二世神庙。之所以如此不确定，是因为他们在考古学上没有发现任何指向或与某一特定神祇相关的遗迹。这座神庙的历史可以追溯到公元前450年左右，是三座神庙中最新的一座，位于赫拉原神庙和公园北端的另一座神庙之间。
这座神庙是保存最完好的。它仍然保留着梯状平台（crepidoma），即构成神庙基座的阶梯式平台。人们可以爬上这些阶梯，绕着神庙的外部通道行走，但不能直接进入内部，因为那里被绳索隔开了。仅仅在过道上行走就能很好地了解神庙的布局。
虽然失去了屋顶，但神庙仍然保留着额楣、雕带和檐口，以及正面的三角形山墙。对于一座屹立近2500年的建筑来说，它的保存状况相当不错。对我来说，在遗址周围漫步是一种享受。
在中神庙前是希腊集市（中央广场/广场）的遗迹，寻找石灰石块。沿着公园的围栏边界行走，可以看到保存完好的希腊埃克利西亚斯泰里翁（ekklesiasterion）的一半，另一半则在路下。虽然埃克利西亚斯泰里翁看起来像罗马圆形剧场，但实际上并非如此，它的用途也有所不同。埃克利西亚斯泰里翁是用于会议和政治讨论的公共区域，更类似于露天的罗马长方形会堂。
在这两座神庙和北端的神庙之间是罗马定居点。在这里，您可以看到广场、商店、住宅和圆形剧场的遗迹。公园的这一部分可能需要一些想象力才能找到方向并理解那里的情况。
公园尽头的神庙通常被称为雅典娜神庙或刻瑞斯神庙，同样，它供奉的是哪位神祇也无从考证。从时间上看，它建于赫拉神庙原址和如今毗邻神庙的神庙之间。考古学家能够确认的是，这座神庙在后期曾被用作教堂，因为神庙的地面上有三个坟墓。
帕埃斯图姆考古公园并不大，地势平坦，除了售票处后略微向下倾斜，但坡度并不陡峭。我记得的只有四级台阶，可以通往海王星/阿波罗/赫拉二世神庙，但台阶很高。我的髋关节有点问题，但只要小心选择路线，就能上下。即使你无法登上台阶，仍然可以很好地欣赏到这座建筑。
帕埃斯图姆或许可以成为更商业化的庞贝古城的替代选择，或者说，是对庞贝古城的一种补充。当然，它不如庞贝古城规模宏大，罗马部分的修缮状况也不如庞贝古城，但话说回来，由于它远离热门旅游路线，所以人潮也不多。
你可以轻松地在这里逛上几个小时，尽情探索。
公园对面有一家小型博物馆，展出了从遗址中发现的文物，其中一些非常精美，保存完好。
参观结束后，如果需要茶点，可以去当地的一些咖啡馆。
该镇从公元前六世纪的某个时候开始作为希腊人的定居点而繁荣起来，直到中世纪由于贸易路线的变化、撒拉逊人的袭击以及沼泽地造成的疟疾和疾病高发以及大量死亡而被废弃。废弃后，大自然接管了它，遮蔽了建筑物，并将它们保存了下来。我原以为，围绕着这个地区的民间传说会把它标榜为一个充满恶趣和死亡的地方，一个人们不愿居住的地方，一个随着时间的推移而被遗忘的地方。
我们今天看到的只是原址的大约一半。这是在20世纪30年代，考古公园旁边的道路被开辟时发现的。人们注意到，遗址继续向东延伸，但那时，旧定居点的顶部已经有许多建筑，因此决定不在这些建筑下方进行挖掘。如今，我们看到的是这些美丽的神庙和罗马遗迹，包括广场、圆形剧场以及散落的商店和住宅遗迹，这些遗迹已被发现，而遗址的其余部分则处于沉睡状态。挖掘工作直到20世纪才正式开始。
我们请了西尔维担任向导，带领我们进行探索。她是一位合格的考古学家，能够详细解释遗址的细节，比如向我展示了一些神庙的柱子是如何被修复的：他们切掉脆弱或破碎的石头，并用雕刻精美的替代品替换。除非你知道要寻找什么，否则你根本不会注意到。
正如我之前提到的，公园里有三座神庙。最南端的神庙是献给赫拉的。这座神庙是唯一一座可以完全确定其供奉的神庙，这要归功于神庙上关于赫拉的铭文以及已发现的与她相关的重要还愿祭品。这是建于公元前550年左右的最古老的神庙。它的柱子仍然屹立不倒，但支撑屋顶的额楣只剩下几块残片。
在第一座神庙和第二座神庙之间的一块土地上，有一座精美的马雕像。虽然它看起来像希腊陶器上的那种雕像，但它实际上是艺术家米莫·帕拉迪诺的近期作品。这件作品因其由当地沙子、铁和树脂组成而被命名为“沙马”。虽然这是一件现代作品，但我认为它与它所在的位置并无二致。如果把它放在帕埃斯图姆的罗马遗址区，绝对会显得格格不入。
距离赫拉神庙最近的神庙有各种名称，比如海王星神庙、阿波罗神庙，甚至可能是赫拉神庙的升级版，因此被称为赫拉二世神庙。之所以如此不确定，是因为他们在考古学上没有发现任何指向或与某一特定神祇相关的遗迹。这座神庙的历史可以追溯到公元前450年左右，是三座神庙中最新的一座，位于赫拉原神庙和公园北端的另一座神庙之间。
这座神庙是保存最完好的。它仍然保留着梯状平台（crepidoma），即构成神庙基座的阶梯式平台。人们可以爬上这些阶梯，绕着神庙的外部通道行走，但不能直接进入内部，因为那里被绳索隔开了。仅仅在过道上行走就能很好地了解神庙的布局。
虽然失去了屋顶，但神庙仍然保留着额楣、雕带和檐口，以及正面的三角形山墙。对于一座屹立近2500年的建筑来说，它的保存状况相当不错。对我来说，在遗址周围漫步是一种享受。
在中神庙前是希腊集市（中央广场/广场）的遗迹，寻找石灰石块。沿着公园的围栏边界行走，可以看到保存完好的希腊埃克利西亚斯泰里翁（ekklesiasterion）的一半，另一半则在路下。虽然埃克利西亚斯泰里翁看起来像罗马圆形剧场，但实际上并非如此，它的用途也有所不同。埃克利西亚斯泰里翁是用于会议和政治讨论的公共区域，更类似于露天的罗马长方形会堂。
在这两座神庙和北端的神庙之间是罗马定居点。在这里，您可以看到广场、商店、住宅和圆形剧场的遗迹。公园的这一部分可能需要一些想象力才能找到方向并理解那里的情况。
公园尽头的神庙通常被称为雅典娜神庙或刻瑞斯神庙，同样，它供奉的是哪位神祇也无从考证。从时间上看，它建于赫拉神庙原址和如今毗邻神庙的神庙之间。考古学家能够确认的是，这座神庙在后期曾被用作教堂，因为神庙的地面上有三个坟墓。
帕埃斯图姆考古公园并不大，地势平坦，除了售票处后略微向下倾斜，但坡度并不陡峭。我记得的只有四级台阶，可以通往海王星/阿波罗/赫拉二世神庙，但台阶很高。我的髋关节有点问题，但只要小心选择路线，就能上下。即使你无法登上台阶，仍然可以很好地欣赏到这座建筑。
帕埃斯图姆或许可以成为更商业化的庞贝古城的替代选择，或者说，是对庞贝古城的一种补充。当然，它不如庞贝古城规模宏大，罗马部分的修缮状况也不如庞贝古城，但话说回来，由于它远离热门旅游路线，所以人潮也不多。
你可以轻松地在这里逛上几个小时，尽情探索。
公园对面有一家小型博物馆，展出了从遗址中发现的文物，其中一些非常精美，保存完好。
参观结束后，如果需要茶点，可以去当地的一些咖啡馆。
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