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THE REAL TRUTH
Huayna Picchu的点评
点评：In reading reviews about this hike, I saw a whole myriad of perspectives from medium difficulty but very manageable hike, to difficult but manageable, to seriously life threatening with many drop-offs/exposed areas with no protection.
I am a person who is in decent shape but doesn't do a whole lot of exercise, particularly from a cardio standpoint. I also have acrophobia (fear of heights), although not with vertigo. I can't walk to the edge of cliffs (and certainly not sit on the edge) or look over fences or banisters with large drop-offs. If I don't feel secure or protected, I don't like heights at all. Conversely, I'm OK with it if things are secure. For instance, I always get the window seat when flying and enjoy looking out during the flight. So that gives you perspective of the challenges I have in relation to what I'm about to describe which you can compare to yourself in evaluating my review.
Also, it rained that night (I went with the 7 am group), so all of the stairs were still wet, and there was much I read that the steps are very slippery when wet which should be taken into consideration when deciding whether to go or not.
First, I will tell you that at no point in the hike did I feel I was going to fall off the mountain or had to traverse an area of "walking on the edge just inches from a huge drop-off". That is the truth. I read on several sites that you are not in any danger at all if you just follow the path (especially skewed over a bit towards the rock wall) follow the signs, listen to instructions and don't veer off the path or do risky things like take pictures right at the edge of lookouts. All of that is very accurate! The only place I felt there was risk of falling was when you have to get to the ladder at the summit to begin heading down. To get on that ladder, you must carefully climb/crawl onto a slightly slanted rock (with a dropdown of only about 5 meters or so to your left) as you do that. But if you are just simply slow and careful, that is not much of an issue and the only real danger on the hike (should you consider a 5 meter fall super serious) if, as I said before, you proceed normally along the path.
When you get to the Stairs of Death at the top of the ascent, the best way to handle them, if you are sensitive to heights, is to crawl up them with your hands and feet and simply look straight down at the stairs (if you do this, you'll be totally fine).
Also, I did not find the steps slippery at all during any part of the hike even though they were wet. You do need to be wearing hiking shoes though.
As I mentioned, I don't experience vertigo at heights, so this hike is probably not for you if you have significant vertigo in those situations or if you have any kind of mobility issues from an injury or chronic pain in your arms, legs, and torso.
Now I will tell you about the other side of the coin. This ascent is very difficult from a cardio standpoint. It is no joke from that perspective. If you aren't a person who does a lot of cardio exercise every week, this will be a challenge; although, that just means that you need to take it slow and easy like I did. I would go up about 12 or 20 steps, and then stop to catch my breath. It took me one and a half hours to ascend the mountain (it takes advanced hikers about half that time). To give you more perspective, I ascended with a family from Park City, Utah who does a lot of climbing, and they even said this was a tough hike.
I saw many reviews where they say there are stairs and switchbacks. I'm not sure what switchbacks they are referring to as my definition of switchbacks is the road the buses take to get up to Machu Picchu (flat and back & forth). The climb up Huayna Picchu doesn't have this. It does have about 4 or 5 terraces where you get a beak from the stairs and can take pictures of the surroundings (including Machu Picchu) as you go up. But other than that, it is all sets of stairs which are winding back and forth. Most of the stair sequences are very steep, but most of those have a cable to hold on to. Where it doesn't, you can use the climb with your hands and feet technique I previously discussed. As I was going up, I was wondering how in the world I would be able to descend on those stairs as they seemed so steep. But as you descend, they don't seem to be near so difficult. I descended in about an hour with no issues. When you are descending some steep stairs and no cables/ropes are there to hold, you can just turn around and once again use the hands/feet method. You must be very careful, though, descending as you would not want to fall down the steep and jagged stairs (as you would likely get a significant injury).
Finally, there was mention in many reviews about some of the steps being so narrow that they were hard to use. I think that is an exaggeration. There are some narrow steps, but they have plenty of room to plant a foot on and climb to the next step.
One other topic I want to briefly discuss. At the midway point of the ascent (or descent), there is the connection of the path to the Gran Caverna (a.k.a., Temple of the Moon). There is someone from the park staff there (the only place during the hike that I saw a staff member) who checks your ticket. Be advised that this hike to the Gran Caverna is about an additional two hours over less groomed trails and lots of additional climbing and use of large wooden ladders down from some cliffs. Few hikers take this route. You really need to be in great shape to do this. I was wiped out just from the hike up and down Huayna Picchu and no way could I have added the Gran Caverna excursion, so hopefully this can give you some perspective if you are considering this.
So in summary, many people make this hike sound much more scary than it actually is, but be prepared for a very tough workout up hundreds and hundreds of steep steps. Given the fantastic views of Machu Picchu and the surrounding area, especially at the summit, I highly recommend to do this hike if you don't have the impediments I talked about earlier. I'm so glad I did it!
I am a person who is in decent shape but doesn't do a whole lot of exercise, particularly from a cardio standpoint. I also have acrophobia (fear of heights), although not with vertigo. I can't walk to the edge of cliffs (and certainly not sit on the edge) or look over fences or banisters with large drop-offs. If I don't feel secure or protected, I don't like heights at all. Conversely, I'm OK with it if things are secure. For instance, I always get the window seat when flying and enjoy looking out during the flight. So that gives you perspective of the challenges I have in relation to what I'm about to describe which you can compare to yourself in evaluating my review.
Also, it rained that night (I went with the 7 am group), so all of the stairs were still wet, and there was much I read that the steps are very slippery when wet which should be taken into consideration when deciding whether to go or not.
First, I will tell you that at no point in the hike did I feel I was going to fall off the mountain or had to traverse an area of "walking on the edge just inches from a huge drop-off". That is the truth. I read on several sites that you are not in any danger at all if you just follow the path (especially skewed over a bit towards the rock wall) follow the signs, listen to instructions and don't veer off the path or do risky things like take pictures right at the edge of lookouts. All of that is very accurate! The only place I felt there was risk of falling was when you have to get to the ladder at the summit to begin heading down. To get on that ladder, you must carefully climb/crawl onto a slightly slanted rock (with a dropdown of only about 5 meters or so to your left) as you do that. But if you are just simply slow and careful, that is not much of an issue and the only real danger on the hike (should you consider a 5 meter fall super serious) if, as I said before, you proceed normally along the path.
When you get to the Stairs of Death at the top of the ascent, the best way to handle them, if you are sensitive to heights, is to crawl up them with your hands and feet and simply look straight down at the stairs (if you do this, you'll be totally fine).
Also, I did not find the steps slippery at all during any part of the hike even though they were wet. You do need to be wearing hiking shoes though.
As I mentioned, I don't experience vertigo at heights, so this hike is probably not for you if you have significant vertigo in those situations or if you have any kind of mobility issues from an injury or chronic pain in your arms, legs, and torso.
Now I will tell you about the other side of the coin. This ascent is very difficult from a cardio standpoint. It is no joke from that perspective. If you aren't a person who does a lot of cardio exercise every week, this will be a challenge; although, that just means that you need to take it slow and easy like I did. I would go up about 12 or 20 steps, and then stop to catch my breath. It took me one and a half hours to ascend the mountain (it takes advanced hikers about half that time). To give you more perspective, I ascended with a family from Park City, Utah who does a lot of climbing, and they even said this was a tough hike.
I saw many reviews where they say there are stairs and switchbacks. I'm not sure what switchbacks they are referring to as my definition of switchbacks is the road the buses take to get up to Machu Picchu (flat and back & forth). The climb up Huayna Picchu doesn't have this. It does have about 4 or 5 terraces where you get a beak from the stairs and can take pictures of the surroundings (including Machu Picchu) as you go up. But other than that, it is all sets of stairs which are winding back and forth. Most of the stair sequences are very steep, but most of those have a cable to hold on to. Where it doesn't, you can use the climb with your hands and feet technique I previously discussed. As I was going up, I was wondering how in the world I would be able to descend on those stairs as they seemed so steep. But as you descend, they don't seem to be near so difficult. I descended in about an hour with no issues. When you are descending some steep stairs and no cables/ropes are there to hold, you can just turn around and once again use the hands/feet method. You must be very careful, though, descending as you would not want to fall down the steep and jagged stairs (as you would likely get a significant injury).
Finally, there was mention in many reviews about some of the steps being so narrow that they were hard to use. I think that is an exaggeration. There are some narrow steps, but they have plenty of room to plant a foot on and climb to the next step.
One other topic I want to briefly discuss. At the midway point of the ascent (or descent), there is the connection of the path to the Gran Caverna (a.k.a., Temple of the Moon). There is someone from the park staff there (the only place during the hike that I saw a staff member) who checks your ticket. Be advised that this hike to the Gran Caverna is about an additional two hours over less groomed trails and lots of additional climbing and use of large wooden ladders down from some cliffs. Few hikers take this route. You really need to be in great shape to do this. I was wiped out just from the hike up and down Huayna Picchu and no way could I have added the Gran Caverna excursion, so hopefully this can give you some perspective if you are considering this.
So in summary, many people make this hike sound much more scary than it actually is, but be prepared for a very tough workout up hundreds and hundreds of steep steps. Given the fantastic views of Machu Picchu and the surrounding area, especially at the summit, I highly recommend to do this hike if you don't have the impediments I talked about earlier. I'm so glad I did it!
翻译：在阅读关于这条徒步路线的评论时，我看到了各种各样的评价，从中等难度但完全可以应付的路线，到难度较高但可以应付的路线，再到存在大量悬崖/暴露区域且没有任何防护措施的严重危及生命的路线。
我身体状况尚可，但平时运动量不大，尤其是有氧运动。我还有恐高症，虽然没有眩晕。我无法走到悬崖边（当然更不能坐在悬崖边上），也无法越过围栏或栏杆看到下方巨大的落差。如果感觉不安全或没有保护，我就完全不喜欢高处。相反，如果一切都很安全，我就没问题。例如，我坐飞机时总是选择靠窗的座位，并且很享受飞行途中欣赏窗外风景。所以，这些经历能让你更好地理解我即将描述的挑战，你可以将自己的经历与我的评价进行比较。
另外，那天晚上下了雨（我参加的是早上7点的登山队），所以所有的台阶都还湿漉漉的。我之前看过很多攻略，说台阶湿滑的时候非常危险，所以决定去不去登山的时候应该考虑到这一点。
首先，我要说的是，在整个徒步过程中，我从来没有感到过要掉下山，也没有遇到过“走在悬崖边上，离深渊只有几英寸”的情况。这是真的。我在好几个网站上都看到，只要沿着小路走（尤其是稍微偏向岩壁那条路），跟着指示牌走，听从指挥，不要偏离路线，也不要做像在观景台边缘拍照这种危险的事情，就不会有任何危险。这些说法都非常准确！我唯一觉得有风险的地方，就是到达山顶准备下山的时候。要爬上那架梯子，你必须小心翼翼地攀爬/匍匐在一块略微倾斜的岩石上（左侧落差大约只有5米左右）。但如果你动作缓慢且谨慎，这其实不算什么问题，也是徒步过程中唯一的真正危险（如果你认为5米落差非常严重的话）。正如我之前所说，只要你沿着小路正常行进，就不会有太大问题。
当你到达山顶的“死亡阶梯”时，如果你恐高，最好的办法是用手脚匍匐前进，并直视下方的阶梯（这样做的话，你完全没问题）。
另外，尽管阶梯是湿的，但我在徒步过程中并没有觉得它们很滑。不过，你确实需要穿登山鞋。
正如我之前提到的，我没有恐高症，所以如果您在高处会感到严重的眩晕，或者您的手臂、腿部和躯干因受伤或慢性疼痛而行动不便，那么这次徒步可能并不适合您。
现在我来说说另一面。从心肺功能的角度来看，这次攀登非常困难。这一点绝非儿戏。如果您每周不进行大量的有氧运动，这将是一个挑战；不过，这也意味着您需要像我一样，慢慢来，循序渐进。我每走12到20级台阶就停下来喘口气。我花了大约一个半小时才登顶（经验丰富的徒步者大约只需要一半的时间）。为了让您更直观地了解难度，我和来自犹他州帕克城的一家人一起攀登，他们经常登山，他们也说这次徒步很艰难。
我看到很多评论都提到，这条路线有台阶和之字形山路。我不确定他们说的“之字形弯道”是指什么，因为我理解的“之字形弯道”是指巴士前往马丘比丘的那条路（平坦且来回蜿蜒）。攀登瓦纳比丘并没有这种弯道。它确实有四五个平台，你可以从台阶上探出头来，一边攀登一边拍摄周围的景色（包括马丘比丘）。但除此之外，全程都是蜿蜒曲折的台阶。大部分台阶都很陡峭，但大多数都有钢索可以抓握。如果没有钢索，你可以使用我之前提到的手脚并用的攀爬技巧。上山的时候，我一直在想，这些台阶看起来那么陡，我该怎么下山呢？但下山的时候，感觉并没有那么难。我大约花了一个小时就顺利下山了。当你下陡峭的楼梯，而周围又没有绳索可以扶着时，你可以转身，再次使用手脚并用的方法。不过，下楼梯时一定要非常小心，以免从陡峭崎岖的楼梯上摔下来（那样很可能会受重伤）。
最后，很多评论都提到有些台阶太窄，难以使用。我觉得这有点夸张。虽然有些台阶比较窄，但空间足够，可以踩上去轻松迈到下一个台阶。
还有一点我想简单谈谈。在攀登（或下山）的中途，有一条岔路通往大洞穴（又名月亮神庙）。那里有公园工作人员（也是我徒步过程中唯一见到工作人员的地方）会检查你的门票。请注意，前往大洞穴的这段徒步路线大约需要额外两个小时，而且路况较差，需要攀爬很多路段，还要借助一些悬崖上的大型木梯才能下来。很少有徒步者选择这条路线。你需要非常好的体能才能完成。我光是攀登瓦纳比丘就筋疲力尽了，根本不可能再去大洞穴了，所以如果你正在考虑这条路线，希望我的经历能给你一些参考。
总而言之，很多人把这条徒步路线描述得比实际情况可怕得多，但你仍然需要做好准备，迎接数百级陡峭台阶带来的高强度锻炼。鉴于马丘比丘及其周边地区，特别是山顶的景色如此壮丽，如果你没有我之前提到的那些障碍，我强烈推荐你来徒步。我很高兴自己完成了这次徒步！
我身体状况尚可，但平时运动量不大，尤其是有氧运动。我还有恐高症，虽然没有眩晕。我无法走到悬崖边（当然更不能坐在悬崖边上），也无法越过围栏或栏杆看到下方巨大的落差。如果感觉不安全或没有保护，我就完全不喜欢高处。相反，如果一切都很安全，我就没问题。例如，我坐飞机时总是选择靠窗的座位，并且很享受飞行途中欣赏窗外风景。所以，这些经历能让你更好地理解我即将描述的挑战，你可以将自己的经历与我的评价进行比较。
另外，那天晚上下了雨（我参加的是早上7点的登山队），所以所有的台阶都还湿漉漉的。我之前看过很多攻略，说台阶湿滑的时候非常危险，所以决定去不去登山的时候应该考虑到这一点。
首先，我要说的是，在整个徒步过程中，我从来没有感到过要掉下山，也没有遇到过“走在悬崖边上，离深渊只有几英寸”的情况。这是真的。我在好几个网站上都看到，只要沿着小路走（尤其是稍微偏向岩壁那条路），跟着指示牌走，听从指挥，不要偏离路线，也不要做像在观景台边缘拍照这种危险的事情，就不会有任何危险。这些说法都非常准确！我唯一觉得有风险的地方，就是到达山顶准备下山的时候。要爬上那架梯子，你必须小心翼翼地攀爬/匍匐在一块略微倾斜的岩石上（左侧落差大约只有5米左右）。但如果你动作缓慢且谨慎，这其实不算什么问题，也是徒步过程中唯一的真正危险（如果你认为5米落差非常严重的话）。正如我之前所说，只要你沿着小路正常行进，就不会有太大问题。
当你到达山顶的“死亡阶梯”时，如果你恐高，最好的办法是用手脚匍匐前进，并直视下方的阶梯（这样做的话，你完全没问题）。
另外，尽管阶梯是湿的，但我在徒步过程中并没有觉得它们很滑。不过，你确实需要穿登山鞋。
正如我之前提到的，我没有恐高症，所以如果您在高处会感到严重的眩晕，或者您的手臂、腿部和躯干因受伤或慢性疼痛而行动不便，那么这次徒步可能并不适合您。
现在我来说说另一面。从心肺功能的角度来看，这次攀登非常困难。这一点绝非儿戏。如果您每周不进行大量的有氧运动，这将是一个挑战；不过，这也意味着您需要像我一样，慢慢来，循序渐进。我每走12到20级台阶就停下来喘口气。我花了大约一个半小时才登顶（经验丰富的徒步者大约只需要一半的时间）。为了让您更直观地了解难度，我和来自犹他州帕克城的一家人一起攀登，他们经常登山，他们也说这次徒步很艰难。
我看到很多评论都提到，这条路线有台阶和之字形山路。我不确定他们说的“之字形弯道”是指什么，因为我理解的“之字形弯道”是指巴士前往马丘比丘的那条路（平坦且来回蜿蜒）。攀登瓦纳比丘并没有这种弯道。它确实有四五个平台，你可以从台阶上探出头来，一边攀登一边拍摄周围的景色（包括马丘比丘）。但除此之外，全程都是蜿蜒曲折的台阶。大部分台阶都很陡峭，但大多数都有钢索可以抓握。如果没有钢索，你可以使用我之前提到的手脚并用的攀爬技巧。上山的时候，我一直在想，这些台阶看起来那么陡，我该怎么下山呢？但下山的时候，感觉并没有那么难。我大约花了一个小时就顺利下山了。当你下陡峭的楼梯，而周围又没有绳索可以扶着时，你可以转身，再次使用手脚并用的方法。不过，下楼梯时一定要非常小心，以免从陡峭崎岖的楼梯上摔下来（那样很可能会受重伤）。
最后，很多评论都提到有些台阶太窄，难以使用。我觉得这有点夸张。虽然有些台阶比较窄，但空间足够，可以踩上去轻松迈到下一个台阶。
还有一点我想简单谈谈。在攀登（或下山）的中途，有一条岔路通往大洞穴（又名月亮神庙）。那里有公园工作人员（也是我徒步过程中唯一见到工作人员的地方）会检查你的门票。请注意，前往大洞穴的这段徒步路线大约需要额外两个小时，而且路况较差，需要攀爬很多路段，还要借助一些悬崖上的大型木梯才能下来。很少有徒步者选择这条路线。你需要非常好的体能才能完成。我光是攀登瓦纳比丘就筋疲力尽了，根本不可能再去大洞穴了，所以如果你正在考虑这条路线，希望我的经历能给你一些参考。
总而言之，很多人把这条徒步路线描述得比实际情况可怕得多，但你仍然需要做好准备，迎接数百级陡峭台阶带来的高强度锻炼。鉴于马丘比丘及其周边地区，特别是山顶的景色如此壮丽，如果你没有我之前提到的那些障碍，我强烈推荐你来徒步。我很高兴自己完成了这次徒步！
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