点评:What a wonderful experience! My whole family loves whales and we found such a kinship with the people at Ocean Quest. John, the man who runs the show, has a tremendous and infectious respect for the whales who come to Newfoundland and let us know from the start that we were the visitors in the whales' territory and it was up to the whales to approach us, not vice versa.
On our snorkel trip, we had barely exited the harbor only for a large sunfish to paddle past our bow, an excellent omen for how the rest of the day would go. We were lucky and our experience will not be everyone's, but we came upon both humpbacks and fin whales right away (though John explained that we don't approach fin whales as they're not interested in interacting with humans). Time and again, we went over the side in our wetsuits, fins, and snorkels (yes, everyone in our party feared the chill of the North Atlantic, but the wetsuits/gloves/boots/hood kept us warm) when humpbacks were near. After getting incredibly close to capelin-gobbling humpbacks from the nearby beach at St. Vincent's (a great spot in Newfoundland to humpback whale watch), the sound of their loud, huffing exhales becomes pretty familiar. Now imagine being in the water and hearing it coming up behind you! It's pretty spectacular.
Each time in the water, we'd swim away from the boat in the direction the whale was heading. It gave the option to the whale to check us out or swim away. John's policy was that we'd give the same whale a couple of times to see if it was into us - if not, we sailed on to the next one. During these hops into the water, we saw not only the huge schools of capelin the humpbacks are in Newfoundland to devour but even a lion's mane jellyfish (let me tell you how wild it is to see one of those glowing golden creatures ascending through a cloud of dark capelin). Even better, while following one whale, a pod of four or five dolphins showed up and not only swam to the boat, they went directly under us divers.
Did the whales ever swim up to us for a cinematic boop on the nose or something? Not at all! Were we time and again sharing their waves, watching them spout and swim nearby, and simply enjoying our time alongside these massive mammals? Definitely. My wife stayed aboard the boat and captured video of some of this. If you want to see how close the whales were, just check out the attached picture.
- If you're reading this, you'll probably have the same questions/fears we did - do you have to be a great swimmer to do this? Nah, there's very little swimming involved as you're off the boat and kind of dog-paddling to where the dive leader is indicating. I'm terrible with fins but did fine.
- Is it cold? Not for us, but I'd imagine that can change. Once you're in the water, you get a couple of cold splashes on the face around the edge of your mask, but you don't notice it.
- Should you be good with a snorkel? It probably helps but this was maybe my third time with one and I was totally fine.
- Is it scary being in the water with such gigantic creatures? Not at all. The whales know you're there, are curious or busy, and either avoid you or don't. If you've ever been to an aviary or live butterfly exhibit, it's like that - but if the birds and butterflies are almost 20-feet long and 55,000 pounds. Whales are graceful.
All this to say, what a spectacular experience this was. My family did a handful of whale watching excursions while in Newfoundland - O'Brien's out of Bulls Bay (saw a zillion humpbacks and puffins), Bonavista Puffin & Whale Tours out of Bonavista (no whales, but plenty of puffins and hilarious tales of oceangoing misadventures and plenty of history from the first mate), and the similarly Zodiac-boat driven Trinity Eco-Tour out of Trinity (saw minke whales, tons of puffins way out in the fog on rogue colonies, and even the famously "lost" Steller's sea eagle surrounded by dozens of bald eagles in a remote cove), but nothing brought us closer to the humpbacks than Ocean Quest's snorkel tour. If you want to push past observing the whales from afar and step into their world for even a few minutes, this is the tour for you.
翻译:多么美妙的体验!我全家都喜欢鲸鱼,我们与 Ocean Quest 的工作人员产生了一种亲密的关系。负责这场表演的约翰对来到纽芬兰的鲸鱼怀有极大的、具有感染力的敬意,他从一开始就让我们知道,我们是鲸鱼领地的访客,鲸鱼可以接近我们,而不是我们接近鲸鱼。
在我们的浮潜之旅中,我们刚离开港口,一条大太阳鱼就从我们的船头游过,这预示着接下来的一天会如何。我们很幸运,我们的经历不会是每个人都有的,但我们马上就遇到了座头鲸和长须鲸(尽管约翰解释说,我们不会接近长须鲸,因为它们对与人类互动不感兴趣)。当座头鲸靠近时,我们一次又一次地穿着潜水衣、脚蹼和呼吸管从船边游过去(是的,我们团队中的每个人都害怕北大西洋的寒冷,但潜水衣/手套/靴子/头罩让我们保持温暖)。在附近的圣文森特海滩(纽芬兰观看座头鲸的绝佳地点)非常接近正在吞食毛鳞鱼的座头鲸后,它们大声呼气的声音变得非常熟悉。现在想象一下在水中听到它从你身后游过来!这真是太壮观了。
每次下水,我们都会沿着鲸鱼游来的方向游离船。这让鲸鱼可以选择看看我们还是游走。约翰的政策是,我们会给同一头鲸鱼几次机会,看看它是否喜欢我们——如果没有,我们就继续航行到下一头。在跳入水中的过程中,我们不仅看到了座头鲸在纽芬兰吞食的庞大的毛鳞鱼群,甚至还看到了狮鬃水母(让我告诉你,看到这些闪闪发光的金色生物穿过黑色毛鳞鱼云上升起是多么疯狂)。更妙的是,在跟随一头鲸鱼时,一群四五只海豚出现了,它们不仅游向船,还直接游到我们潜水员的下面。
鲸鱼有没有游到我们面前,像电影里那样拍拍我们的鼻子?根本没有!我们是否一次又一次地分享它们的波浪,看着它们在附近喷水和游泳,只是享受与这些大型哺乳动物在一起的时光?当然。我的妻子留在船上,拍下了一些视频。如果你想看看鲸鱼离我们有多近,看看附图就行了。
- 如果您正在阅读本文,您可能也会有与我们相同的疑问/担忧 - 您是否必须是一位出色的游泳者才能做到这一点?不,几乎不需要游泳,因为您已经下船,并且像狗刨一样游到潜水领队指示的地方。我的脚蹼很糟糕,但表现还不错。
- 冷吗?对我们来说并不冷,但我想这可能会改变。一旦您进入水中,您的面罩边缘周围会溅到几片冷水,但您不会注意到。
- 您应该擅长使用呼吸管吗?它可能有帮助,但这可能是我第三次使用呼吸管了,我完全没问题。
- 和如此巨大的生物一起在水中会害怕吗?一点也不。鲸鱼知道您在那里,它们很好奇或很忙,要么避开您,要么不避开您。如果你曾经去过鸟舍或活蝴蝶展览,那感觉就像这样——但鸟和蝴蝶的长度接近 20 英尺,重量为 55,000 磅。鲸鱼很优雅。
总而言之,这是一次多么壮观的体验。我的家人在纽芬兰时参加了几次赏鲸之旅 - 布尔斯湾的 O'Brien's(看到了无数座头鲸和海鹦)、博纳维斯塔的博纳维斯塔海鹦和鲸鱼之旅(没有鲸鱼,但有很多海鹦,还有大副讲述的有趣的远洋冒险故事和大量历史),以及同样由 Zodiac 船驾驶的三一生态之旅(看到了小须鲸、在迷雾中游荡在流浪群落中的大量海鹦,甚至在偏远的海湾中看到了著名的“迷路”的虎头海雕,它被数十只白头鹰包围着),但没有什么比 Ocean Quest 的浮潜之旅更能让我们更接近座头鲸了。如果您想超越远距离观察鲸鱼,并踏入它们的世界,哪怕只有几分钟,那么这次旅行就是您的不二之选。