旅行
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emersonn517
The best of the best of the Potosina - do not miss the Tamul Waterfall!
Cascada de Tamul的点评
点评：My husband (71, good health) and I (65, bad hips, broke knee in August) embarked on our first Potosina adventure with trepidation, but we ended up loving it.
After a delicious breakfast at Kapul (restaurant across the street from our hotel, highly recommended), our guide, Carlos of Diversion Huasteca, met us at our hotel in Ciudad Valle (Casa Ortiz, also highly recommended).
Carlos then drove us and another family (mother with 3 grown sons) about an hour to the Tamul Waterfall for our first day in the Huasteca Potosina. We stopped on the way to pick up water shoes (indispensable - I hated them and thought I could do the whole thing barefoot or in my flipflops and I was SO glad I listened to Carlos), a waterproof cellphone case and a snack.
We parked on the highway then hiked down a beautiful rolling hillside (fairly flat, a few stairs) about 1km to the unbelievable river, where our panga awaited us, with our boatman Jume. We donned lifejackets and grabbed our paddles, then headed upriver, a 4km trip against a slight current in absolutely spectacularly aquamarine blue water.
I am an experienced kayaker and had no trouble with the paddle, but if I had, the others could have easily picked up the slack as it was not arduous. Our boatman pulled the panga over the portage mid-trip, and we walked along a track on the river about 400m. It was an easy and beautiful walk, then we canoed the rest of the way to the falls.
On the way, we canoed under a low cascade that was both refreshing and exhilarating. It really felt like an adventure, as the water roared down, the mosses glistened and the maidenhair ferns waved at us through the spray.
We didn't get that close to the falls themselves as the current was too strong, but we all clambered up a rock so Carlos could take our photo, with the cascade as a backdrop.
We passed a number of other pangas going and coming, and in each case we splashed each other ferociously. Very cool - literally and figuratively. So there were other tourists there, but it didn't feel crowded, and there were plenty of stretches of river where it was just us and the cliffs on either side of use - and one small crocodile sunning himself, a bunch of muddy turtles, and lots of different kinds of birds.
Heading back, we stopped just above the smaller waterfall and climbed up some stairs (about 30) to the spring in a cave where the small waterfall begins. The cave was full of stalactites and the rocks at the entrance were smoothly coated with the limestone sediment, so getting in was easy. I swam to the back of the cave (tricky in my lifejacket, but they are required) about 20m.
Then we walked down the stairs and played in the pools created at the top of the falls in the limestone, with outcroppings of rock crowned by tufts of green - ferns, moss, trees, vines - making the rushing waters eddy and foam and whirl. It was like a fantastic outdoor jacuzzi.
We finished our trip back where we started, and though the walk back to the car seemed longer than the trip going (and my shoulder was a bit stiff), we collapsed happily for the drive to lunch.
Then Carlos drove us a short was to a restaurant on a fish hatchery pond. My husband and I split bagre zarandeado (catfish grilled with a non-spicy chili marinade), which was delicious, and cold Topochico with lime. So refreshing and we were SOO hungry!
Sleep and replete, Carlos drove us all back to our hotels, ready for the next day of our Potosina adventure.
After a delicious breakfast at Kapul (restaurant across the street from our hotel, highly recommended), our guide, Carlos of Diversion Huasteca, met us at our hotel in Ciudad Valle (Casa Ortiz, also highly recommended).
Carlos then drove us and another family (mother with 3 grown sons) about an hour to the Tamul Waterfall for our first day in the Huasteca Potosina. We stopped on the way to pick up water shoes (indispensable - I hated them and thought I could do the whole thing barefoot or in my flipflops and I was SO glad I listened to Carlos), a waterproof cellphone case and a snack.
We parked on the highway then hiked down a beautiful rolling hillside (fairly flat, a few stairs) about 1km to the unbelievable river, where our panga awaited us, with our boatman Jume. We donned lifejackets and grabbed our paddles, then headed upriver, a 4km trip against a slight current in absolutely spectacularly aquamarine blue water.
I am an experienced kayaker and had no trouble with the paddle, but if I had, the others could have easily picked up the slack as it was not arduous. Our boatman pulled the panga over the portage mid-trip, and we walked along a track on the river about 400m. It was an easy and beautiful walk, then we canoed the rest of the way to the falls.
On the way, we canoed under a low cascade that was both refreshing and exhilarating. It really felt like an adventure, as the water roared down, the mosses glistened and the maidenhair ferns waved at us through the spray.
We didn't get that close to the falls themselves as the current was too strong, but we all clambered up a rock so Carlos could take our photo, with the cascade as a backdrop.
We passed a number of other pangas going and coming, and in each case we splashed each other ferociously. Very cool - literally and figuratively. So there were other tourists there, but it didn't feel crowded, and there were plenty of stretches of river where it was just us and the cliffs on either side of use - and one small crocodile sunning himself, a bunch of muddy turtles, and lots of different kinds of birds.
Heading back, we stopped just above the smaller waterfall and climbed up some stairs (about 30) to the spring in a cave where the small waterfall begins. The cave was full of stalactites and the rocks at the entrance were smoothly coated with the limestone sediment, so getting in was easy. I swam to the back of the cave (tricky in my lifejacket, but they are required) about 20m.
Then we walked down the stairs and played in the pools created at the top of the falls in the limestone, with outcroppings of rock crowned by tufts of green - ferns, moss, trees, vines - making the rushing waters eddy and foam and whirl. It was like a fantastic outdoor jacuzzi.
We finished our trip back where we started, and though the walk back to the car seemed longer than the trip going (and my shoulder was a bit stiff), we collapsed happily for the drive to lunch.
Then Carlos drove us a short was to a restaurant on a fish hatchery pond. My husband and I split bagre zarandeado (catfish grilled with a non-spicy chili marinade), which was delicious, and cold Topochico with lime. So refreshing and we were SOO hungry!
Sleep and replete, Carlos drove us all back to our hotels, ready for the next day of our Potosina adventure.
翻译：我丈夫（71 岁，身体健康）和我（65 岁，髋部不好，8 月膝盖骨折）怀着忐忑不安的心情开始了我们的第一次波托西纳冒险，但我们最终爱上了它。
在 Kapul（我们酒店对面的餐厅，强烈推荐）享用美味的早餐后，我们的导游，Diversion Huasteca 的 Carlos 在 Ciudad Valle 的酒店（Casa Ortiz，也强烈推荐）与我们会面。
Carlos 随后开车约一小时带我们和另一个家庭（母亲和 3 个成年儿子）前往 Tamul 瀑布，这是我们在 Huasteca Potosina 的第一天。我们在路上停下来拿水鞋（必不可少 - 我讨厌它们，以为我可以赤脚或穿着人字拖完成整个过程，我很高兴我听了 Carlos 的建议）、防水手机壳和零食。
我们把车停在高速公路上，然后沿着美丽的山坡（相当平坦，只有几级台阶）徒步走下大约 1 公里，来到一条令人难以置信的河流，我们的小艇和船夫 Jume 在那里等着我们。我们穿上救生衣，拿起桨，然后逆流而上，在绝对壮观的碧绿海水中行驶了 4 公里。
我是一名经验丰富的皮划艇运动员，划桨没有任何问题，但如果我划桨了，其他人也可以轻松接替我，因为这并不费力。我们的船夫在中途将小艇拉过陆路，我们沿着河上的一条小路走了大约 400 米。这是一次轻松而美丽的步行，然后我们划独木舟走到了瀑布。
在途中，我们在一个低矮的瀑布下划独木舟，既令人耳目一新又令人兴奋。这真的感觉像是一场冒险，水流咆哮而下，苔藓闪闪发光，铁线蕨透过水花向我们招手。
由于水流太急，我们没能靠近瀑布，但我们都爬上了一块岩石，这样卡洛斯就可以拍下我们的照片，以瀑布为背景。
我们经过了许多其他来来往往的小船，每次我们都凶猛地互相泼水。非常酷——字面上和比喻上都是如此。所以那里还有其他游客，但感觉并不拥挤，而且有很多河段只有我们和两边的悬崖——还有一只小鳄鱼在晒太阳，一群泥泞的乌龟，还有许多不同种类的鸟。
回程时，我们在较小的瀑布上方停了下来，爬上一些楼梯（大约 30 级）来到小瀑布开始的一个洞穴中的泉水。洞穴里满是钟乳石，入口处的岩石光滑地覆盖着石灰岩沉积物，所以进去很容易。我游到洞穴后面大约 20 米（穿着救生衣有点难，但救生衣是必须的）。
然后我们走下楼梯，在瀑布顶部石灰岩形成的水池里玩耍，岩石露头顶部长满了绿色植物——蕨类植物、苔藓、树木、藤蔓——湍急的水流形成漩涡、泡沫和旋转。就像一个梦幻般的户外按摩浴缸。
我们结束了旅程，回到了出发的地方，虽然走回车上的路似乎比旅途本身还要长（我的肩膀有点僵硬），但我们还是开心地躺下，准备开车去吃午饭。
然后卡洛斯开车带我们去了鱼孵化场池塘边的一家餐馆。我和丈夫吃了 bagre zarandeado（用不辣的辣椒腌料烤制的鲶鱼），味道很好，还吃了加了酸橙的冷 Topochico。味道很清爽，我们饿极了！
睡醒后，卡洛斯开车把我们送回酒店，准备第二天去波托西纳探险。
在 Kapul（我们酒店对面的餐厅，强烈推荐）享用美味的早餐后，我们的导游，Diversion Huasteca 的 Carlos 在 Ciudad Valle 的酒店（Casa Ortiz，也强烈推荐）与我们会面。
Carlos 随后开车约一小时带我们和另一个家庭（母亲和 3 个成年儿子）前往 Tamul 瀑布，这是我们在 Huasteca Potosina 的第一天。我们在路上停下来拿水鞋（必不可少 - 我讨厌它们，以为我可以赤脚或穿着人字拖完成整个过程，我很高兴我听了 Carlos 的建议）、防水手机壳和零食。
我们把车停在高速公路上，然后沿着美丽的山坡（相当平坦，只有几级台阶）徒步走下大约 1 公里，来到一条令人难以置信的河流，我们的小艇和船夫 Jume 在那里等着我们。我们穿上救生衣，拿起桨，然后逆流而上，在绝对壮观的碧绿海水中行驶了 4 公里。
我是一名经验丰富的皮划艇运动员，划桨没有任何问题，但如果我划桨了，其他人也可以轻松接替我，因为这并不费力。我们的船夫在中途将小艇拉过陆路，我们沿着河上的一条小路走了大约 400 米。这是一次轻松而美丽的步行，然后我们划独木舟走到了瀑布。
在途中，我们在一个低矮的瀑布下划独木舟，既令人耳目一新又令人兴奋。这真的感觉像是一场冒险，水流咆哮而下，苔藓闪闪发光，铁线蕨透过水花向我们招手。
由于水流太急，我们没能靠近瀑布，但我们都爬上了一块岩石，这样卡洛斯就可以拍下我们的照片，以瀑布为背景。
我们经过了许多其他来来往往的小船，每次我们都凶猛地互相泼水。非常酷——字面上和比喻上都是如此。所以那里还有其他游客，但感觉并不拥挤，而且有很多河段只有我们和两边的悬崖——还有一只小鳄鱼在晒太阳，一群泥泞的乌龟，还有许多不同种类的鸟。
回程时，我们在较小的瀑布上方停了下来，爬上一些楼梯（大约 30 级）来到小瀑布开始的一个洞穴中的泉水。洞穴里满是钟乳石，入口处的岩石光滑地覆盖着石灰岩沉积物，所以进去很容易。我游到洞穴后面大约 20 米（穿着救生衣有点难，但救生衣是必须的）。
然后我们走下楼梯，在瀑布顶部石灰岩形成的水池里玩耍，岩石露头顶部长满了绿色植物——蕨类植物、苔藓、树木、藤蔓——湍急的水流形成漩涡、泡沫和旋转。就像一个梦幻般的户外按摩浴缸。
我们结束了旅程，回到了出发的地方，虽然走回车上的路似乎比旅途本身还要长（我的肩膀有点僵硬），但我们还是开心地躺下，准备开车去吃午饭。
然后卡洛斯开车带我们去了鱼孵化场池塘边的一家餐馆。我和丈夫吃了 bagre zarandeado（用不辣的辣椒腌料烤制的鲶鱼），味道很好，还吃了加了酸橙的冷 Topochico。味道很清爽，我们饿极了！
睡醒后，卡洛斯开车把我们送回酒店，准备第二天去波托西纳探险。
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