点评:The most important thing: the gallery is tremendous. A huge gift to Somerset: free, full of brilliant exhibitions with a superb educational programme (especially for kids) alongside it. Nothing but praise.
The restaurants are a checkered history. On opening, the Roth Bar was surprisingly reasonably with very high quality food. Very friendly and open.
What's left of the Roth Bar is expensive--more than£4 for a coffee (with a £1 service charge AT THE BAR) but the quality still superb.
The new restaurant - La Costa - is a disaster. Where to start? Very fancy service "our Italian chef is here for awhile before going to our hotel in Switzerland"-- who cares?
The prices (average £25 for a main) very expensive for Somerset. The portions, to be fair, are huge: but who needs that nowadays? Over-consumption is the topic so many artists tackle and attack.
And then there is the food itself. 'Gnocco fritto' was inedible and nowhere near the real thing. A real gnoccho fritto (aka torta fritta in Emilia Romagna) is an empty pillow made of gorgeous fried dough: surprisingly light, fresh and delicious. It is not an inedible chewy fried heavy mush. The baccala was all potato, no fish. It reminded me of the wonderful food in a Parma market where the dish was fresher, the dish was lighter and the prices were affordable for normal people.
There are so many good restaurants in Bruton that, on some level, this doesn't matter. Just eat somewhere else. What concerns me is what this shift in pricing and service style signifies. While Hauser & Wirth's arrival some 10 years ago in Somerset seemed like a gift, now it feels like a strategic decision has been made to focus on the rich. They are there aplenty and I guess they'll still come. But the spirit of accessibility is killed stone dead by this poncy poor restaurant. It does everything for art that artists themselves hate.
翻译:最重要的是:画廊非常棒。这是送给萨默塞特的一份大礼:免费,充满了精彩的展览,还有一流的教育计划(尤其是针对儿童)。只有赞美。
餐厅的历史很复杂。开业时,Roth Bar 的价格出奇地合理,食物质量很高。非常友好和开放。
Roth Bar 剩下的东西很贵——一杯咖啡要 4 英镑多(在酒吧要加收 1 英镑的服务费),但质量仍然很好。
新餐厅 La Costa 是一场灾难。从哪里开始呢?非常高档的服务“我们的意大利厨师在这里待了一段时间,然后去瑞士的酒店”——谁在乎呢?
价格(主菜平均 25 英镑)对萨默塞特来说非常昂贵。公平地说,份量很大:但现在谁需要这个呢?过度消费是许多艺术家处理和攻击的主题。
还有食物本身。 “炸面疙瘩”难以下咽,与真正的炸面疙瘩相去甚远。真正的炸面疙瘩(在艾米利亚-罗马涅又称为炸玉米饼)是由美味的油炸面团做成的空枕头:出奇地轻盈、新鲜和美味。它并非难以下咽的、有嚼劲的油炸糊状物。鳕鱼全是土豆,没有鱼。这让我想起了帕尔马市场上的美味佳肴,那里的菜肴更新鲜、更清淡,价格普通人也能承受。
布鲁顿有这么多好餐馆,在某种程度上,这并不重要。去别的地方吃就行了。我担心的是这种定价和服务风格的转变意味着什么。虽然豪瑟沃斯画廊 10 年前进驻萨默塞特似乎是一种礼物,但现在感觉像是做出了一个战略决定,专注于富人。他们在那里很多,我想他们还会来的。但这家贫穷的餐馆彻底扼杀了可及性的精神。它为艺术做了一切艺术家自己讨厌的事情。