点评:We had not visited Mousehole in many years and right away noticed the difference. Although still the iconic picturesque Cornish fishing village, there are now more holiday lets than occupied fisherman cottages.
I spent a large part of my childhood in Mousehole. My earliest memory is catching "bullcats" on the rocks below Gurnick St., with a small hand line my Aunt used to make from netting twine. matchstick and a pin for a hook. Baited with limpets this would give us hours of fun. It was on a catch and release basis.
I can remember when there were still a large number of commercial fishing boats still land catches at my Mousehole during the 1960's, but gradually Newlyn became the main port.
It was at this time that Mousehole started to turn to tourism. I remember watching lorry after lorry bring sand down to create the beaches that you now see around the harbour. Back then they did not fully realise the impact this would have on the village. When you walk around Mousehole now you don't hear the famous Cornish accents of the old fishermen as they sat along the wharf and told stories of the old days. Fascinating to listen to. Of Tom Bawcock's adventure and the Stargazy pie. The defence of the Keigwin Manor House when the Spanish invaded during the time of Queen Elizabeth I. The only structure to remain when the village was torched and the oldest surviving building in the village. Of wreaks and smuggling around the Mousehole cave. Of the great storms one of which washed away the chapel on St Clement's Isle. No longer shouts of famous cornish sayings along the cliff by the Ship Inn. A lot of the old families have left the village and replaced with holiday lets. As was my grandparents cottage.
The cottage where they raise 11 children, where the storm waves crashed into the coat yard during the winter, where the old coal range always had the kettle boiling for tea when the postman, milkman or anyone else called. Strong enough to bend a spoon and sweet. Not just this cottage, but all of those in the village. They were the beating heart of the community.
The harbour where I learnt to swim, to dive off the harbour wall or jump off the old wooden crane when the tides were high. The crane that for so long was the iconic picture of Mousehole standing tall over the harbour mouth. Legend has it that the young men of Mousehole would dive off the crane and swim around St Clement's Isle. I know my father did. Swimming in only a swim suit none of the wetsuits of today. Yes the water was cold, but we were young and full of fun. Caught my first "big fish" a Pollock with a hand line off this harbour wall.
Waiting on the harbour wall for the first sight of the Wallis's brothers boat returning from the days shark fishing, to count the pennants hoisted from the mast. Then wait until they pulled along side and saw the size of the blue sharks. Some were monsters. It was always a thrill when Phill or Frankie asked if we wanted to go mackerel fishing in the evening for bait.
Then when we were older a day out on a full shark fishing trip. Landing my first shark was an experience I will never forget. They are both gone now, but thanks for the memories. This was my Mousehole.
The rocks below the Gurnick, where we fished, looked for eating crabs and sea urchins at low tide, where our feet hardened to leather by running over the rocks, barnacles and all. Of running around the narrow cobble streets and alleys and over the fields to Larmona Cove, before there was a coastal path. Idyllic summers without a care in the world. Of creeping out at night with my cousins. Cloudless nights with a full moon over Reginis Hill. The sea like a sheet of glass and the only sound was the sea gently lapping on the rock and pebbles. Mousehole by moonlight is a must the village is awesome. We tried to relive this on our visit, but it was cloudy. This was my Mousehole.
The artists also appear to have left, we were in Mousehole for four days and didnt see one artist on the harbour or the cliff. At one time there were so many that you would almost trip over them. Maybe they don't have the same inspiration now the village is a holiday let!!!
There are still sights to see around the village. The Keigwin arms with it's plaque. The house where Dolly Pentreath lived, the last Cornish woman to speak the Cornish language died in 1777. Although it said that in Mousehole it continued to be spoken after her death. Reginis Hill with that iconic view of the village and harbour. There is also the bird hospital here where injured birds are taken. There are art galleries and souvenir shops and a few restaurants to look at. The Mousehole I knew had a post office, three corner shops chemist etc. All of which have now gone. The Mousehole is still there however. Here we bought a copy of the Mousehole Cat so our granddaughter will grow up learning of Stargazy Pie and old Tom Bawcock.
Those happy memories however are tinged with sadness. The loss of the Solomon Browne with all hands was a tragedy anyone associated with Mousehole will not forget. The younger crew members my brothers and I spent our childhood with, the older were friends of my father. My memories will always be of her launching down the Penlee slip and heading out to sea on a rescue. As kids we would always listen for the rocket signals to see if the lifeboat would launch and then rush over to the lifeboat house to watch go. Of the thick ring of tar oil around her gleaming white hull when the Torrey Canyon went aground. Of rides around St. Clements Isle during the Mousehole festivals. That was my Mousehole.
The memorial garden at the now deserted Penlee Lifeboat Station is worth a few minutes to visit and reflect on these brave men. The setting is quiet and tranquil and fitting. Today's lifeboat is moored in Newlyn Harbour and still has a member of my family in the crew.
If you never been to Mousehole I recommend you do. It is still worth visiting as the village and harbour will always be iconic and picturesque physically it is the same and will always be, But the beating heart of the community is getting weaker by the year. So when you wander along the cliff past the Ship or along the wharf stop and try to imagine my Mousehole if you can and then you will truly have been TO MOUSEHOLE!!!!!!!
翻译:我们多年没有去过 Mousehole,但马上就注意到了变化。虽然这里仍然是康沃尔郡标志性的风景如画的渔村,但现在度假出租屋的数量比有人居住的渔民小屋还多。
我童年的大部分时间都在 Mousehole 度过。我最早的记忆是在 Gurnick St. 下面的岩石上捕捉“斗牛猫”,用我姑妈用网绳制作的小手线、火柴和大头针做鱼钩。用帽贝做诱饵,我们可以玩上几个小时。这是一种捕获和释放的方式。
我记得在 20 世纪 60 年代,仍然有大量商业渔船在我的 Mousehole 捕捞渔获,但 Newlyn 逐渐成为主要港口。
正是在这个时候,Mousehole 开始转向旅游业。我记得看着一辆又一辆的卡车运来沙子,形成了你现在在港口周围看到的海滩。当时他们还没有完全意识到这会对村庄产生的影响。现在,当你在 Mousehole 附近散步时,你听不到老渔民坐在码头边讲述往事时那著名的康沃尔口音。听着这些故事,你会觉得非常有趣。汤姆·鲍考克的冒险和 Stargazy 派。伊丽莎白一世时期,西班牙入侵时,凯格温庄园的防御。村庄被焚毁时唯一留下的建筑,也是村里现存最古老的建筑。Mousehole 洞穴周围的火海和走私。大风暴,其中一场风暴冲走了圣克莱门特岛上的教堂。Ship Inn 悬崖边不再有著名的康沃尔谚语。许多老家庭已经离开了村庄,取而代之的是度假出租屋。我祖父母的小屋也是如此。
他们养育了 11 个孩子的小屋,冬天风暴的巨浪冲击着衣帽场,邮递员、送奶工或其他人来访时,老煤炉总是烧着水壶泡茶。坚固到可以弯曲勺子和糖果。不仅是这个小屋,还有村里所有的人。他们是社区跳动的心脏。
我学会游泳的港口,从港口墙上跳下来,或者在潮水高涨时从旧木起重机上跳下来。起重机长期以来一直是 Mousehole 的标志性画面,高高耸立在港口入口处。传说 Mousehole 的年轻人会从起重机上跳下来,在圣克莱门特岛周围游泳。我知道我父亲就是这样。只穿着泳衣游泳,而不是今天的潜水衣。是的,水很冷,但我们年轻,充满乐趣。我用手线从港口墙上钓到了我的第一条“大鱼”——一条鳕鱼。
在港口的墙上等待 Wallis 兄弟的船从捕鲨归来,数数桅杆上悬挂的三角旗。然后等到他们靠岸,看到蓝鲨的大小。有些是怪物。当 Phill 或 Frankie 问我们晚上是否想去钓鲭鱼作为诱饵时,我们总是很兴奋。
然后,当我们长大后,我们出去钓了一天鲨鱼。钓到第一条鲨鱼是我永远不会忘记的经历。他们现在都走了,但感谢这些回忆。这是我的 Mousehole。
我们在那里钓鱼,在低潮时,在 Gurnick 下面的岩石上寻找吃螃蟹和海胆,我们的脚因为跑过岩石、藤壶和所有东西而变得坚硬如革。在狭窄的鹅卵石街道和小巷里跑来跑去,穿过田野,来到 Larmona Cove,那里还没有一条沿海小路。田园诗般的夏天,无忧无虑。晚上和表兄弟一起偷偷溜出去。万里无云的夜晚,满月笼罩着雷吉尼斯山。大海像一块玻璃,唯一的声音是海水轻轻拍打岩石和鹅卵石。月光下的 Mousehole 是必游之地,村庄棒极了。我们试图在访问期间重温这一场景,但天阴沉沉的。这就是我的 Mousehole。
艺术家们似乎也离开了,我们在 Mousehole 待了四天,没有看到港口或悬崖上的一位艺术家。曾经有那么多艺术家,你差点被他们绊倒。也许他们现在没有同样的灵感,这个村庄是一个度假屋!!!
村庄周围仍然有景点可看。Keigwin 的徽章上刻着牌匾。Dolly Pentreath 居住的房子,最后一位讲康沃尔语的康沃尔妇女于 1777 年去世。尽管据说在她死后,Mousehole 仍然有人讲这种语言。雷吉尼斯山有着村庄和港口的标志性景色。这里还有一家鸟医院,受伤的鸟儿会被送往那里。这里有艺术画廊、纪念品商店和几家餐馆。我所知道的 Mousehole 有邮局、三家街角商店、药店等。现在这些都消失了。然而 Mousehole 仍然在那里。我们在这里买了一本《Mousehole Cat》,这样我们的孙女长大后就能了解 Stargazy Pie 和老 Tom Bawcock。
然而,那些快乐的回忆却带着一丝悲伤。所罗门·布朗号全员遇难是与 Mousehole 有关的任何人都不会忘记的悲剧。我和兄弟们一起度过童年的年轻船员,年长的船员是我父亲的朋友。我永远记得她沿着 Penlee 滑道下水,出海救援的情景。小时候,我们总是听火箭信号,看看救生艇是否会下水,然后冲到救生艇屋看它出发。记得 Torrey Canyon 号搁浅时,她闪闪发光的白色船体周围被厚厚的焦油包围。记得在 Mousehole 节日期间在圣克莱门特岛周围乘船游览。那是我的 Mousehole。
现在已经荒废的 Penlee 救生艇站的纪念花园值得花几分钟参观,缅怀这些勇敢的人。环境安静祥和,恰到好处。今天的救生艇停泊在纽林港,船员中仍有我的家人。
如果您从未去过 Mousehole,我建议您去。它仍然值得一游,因为村庄和港口永远是标志性的、风景如画的,从外观上看,它是一样的,永远都是,但社区的心脏却一年比一年弱。所以,当你沿着悬崖漫步经过船只或沿着码头时,停下来,试着想象我的老鼠洞,如果你可以的话,那么你就真的去过老鼠洞了!!!!!!!