点评:We completed Crested's "Hike the Paramo" with Benjamin in November 2024.
Setting out from the Valle de Corcora early in the morning and, along with our 35L packs, carrying only film cameras that were unsuitable for the climate, we hiked, climbed, waded, stumbled in the mud and fell, and sometimes, when we felt like it, even ran across terrain that became less and less familiar the farther in we got, finally arriving like medieval pilgrims at the remote ranch that was to host us for the night before the next day's trek down.
Something about these hills compelled us to think critically as we hiked, energetically — and at times breathlessly — discussing art, philosophy, and literature as we rose higher into those hills (which, in retrospect, may have contributed to the altitude sickness/existential crisis that overcame me on those muddy, boggy moors mere moments before arriving at the ranch). But the night's rest left us all in good health and, with time and the weather on our side, the second day proved even more rewarding, as we looked upon the Paramo's diverse nature and climate now revealed to us by an unobstructed mountain sun.
Returning through hill and wood, we made the decision to tack on a couple more hours in order to catch the wax palms we’d bypassed on the way up. While certainly not our journey’s climax — they have, after all, increasingly been marketed as something for tourists to impersonally marvel at — the palms offered some of the best photos from the trip and helped us to feel that our impractical insistence on 35mm film was at least in part justified.
I'd also like to specifically acknowledge our tour guide, Benjamin, and how much he contributed to the success of this trip. Beyond his knowledge of the environment and Colombia more generally, his sociability and willingness to participate in conversations with us (which sometimes flickered between Spanish and English as I tried to practice my Spanish) not only made the hike more memorable but also, I hope, created a lasting friendship.
All in all, absolutely recommend this hike. As long as you’re in good health and enthusiastic, it is totally manageable (as long as the weather agrees). Just make sure to plan the rest of your Colombia trip accordingly: by the time we reached Bogota the next day, we were overcome with a weariness, both mental and physical, which kept us from properly appreciating the city.
翻译:2024 年 11 月,我们和本杰明一起完成了克雷斯特德的“徒步帕拉莫”。
一大早,我们从科尔科拉山谷出发,背着 35L 的背包,只带了不适合气候的胶卷相机,我们徒步、攀爬、涉水、在泥泞中跌倒,有时,当我们想这样做的时候,甚至会跑过越来越陌生的地形,最后像中世纪的朝圣者一样到达了偏远的牧场,我们将在那里过夜,然后第二天再徒步下山。
这些山丘的某种东西迫使我们在徒步旅行时进行批判性思考,精力充沛——有时气喘吁吁——在我们爬上那些山丘时讨论艺术、哲学和文学(回想起来,这可能是导致我在到达牧场前几分钟在那些泥泞、沼泽的荒原上出现高原反应/生存危机的原因)。但一夜的休息让我们的身体都很好,而且时间和天气都对我们有利,第二天的旅程更加值得,因为我们看到了帕拉莫多样的自然和气候,而山上的阳光一览无余。
穿过山丘和树林返回时,我们决定再多花几个小时去捕捉上山途中绕过的蜡棕榈。虽然这肯定不是我们旅程的高潮——毕竟,它们越来越多地被宣传为游客们可以无私地欣赏的东西——但棕榈树提供了这次旅行中最好的一些照片,让我们觉得我们对 35 毫米胶片的不切实际的坚持至少在一定程度上是合理的。
我还想特别感谢我们的导游本杰明,以及他为这次旅行的成功做出了多大的贡献。除了他对环境和哥伦比亚的了解之外,他的社交能力和愿意与我们交谈(当我尝试练习西班牙语时,他有时会在西班牙语和英语之间切换)不仅使这次徒步旅行更加难忘,而且我希望这能建立起持久的友谊。
总而言之,绝对推荐这次徒步旅行。只要您身体健康、热情高涨,就完全可以做到(只要天气允许)。只需确保相应地计划哥伦比亚之旅的其余部分:第二天到达波哥大时,我们身心疲惫,无法好好欣赏这座城市。