点评:The “Žiče Charterhouse” or “Žička kartuzija” in Slovenian, a.k.a. “Kartäuserkloster Seiz” in German, is a former Carthusian monastery (operational between mid 12th-century till Joseph II’s “reforms” in 1782), located in the Žičnica valley (a.k.a. St. John the Baptist valley after the monastery’s church’s patron saint) SW of Slovenske Konjice or approx. 8 kms west of the actual village of Žiče (not as close as the name might suggest). Today its remains are very picturesque even to those not interested in history and spirituality, nice instagramic photos are possible even to those too poor to afford 8€ per person (a basic adult ticket, as of 2024).
The first very positive surprise, as of 2024, such a top attraction still hasn’t been infested by those infamous “ATMs” (in Slovenia widely seen as very trustworthy “certificates” of a place’s overtouristiness, to avoid “juicer” vocabulary…). BTW, cash is accepted but it seems that card payments are preferred by the staff.
Secondly, unlike at many much more notorious touristy places in Slovenia, visitors are very obviously regarded as civilized people rather than mob (and I firmly believe this is based on actual observations). IOW, you purchase tickets inside the “Gastuž” house, also marked by the clearly visible “i” sign (BTW, the name obviously originates from the German word “Gasthaus” and reportedly this is the oldest still operating inn in Slovenia), approx. 100 meters from the actual entrance, and guess what, no QR code ot other card is necessary to open any gate a the entrance, there is also no manual ticket check, it is entirely based on honour system. Instead, you receive an audio guide, a dumb phone like (older readers probably still remember these smartphones' predecessors), when you approach a certain POI, just press a button with the indicated number and listen to a very detailed explanation. And guess what, no deposit etc. is collected, it is assumed, all visitors are civilized enough to return the audio guides. BTW, the ladies at the ticket office were very nice and eager to answer even the most “unusual” questions and would well deserve even 6 or more stars if that were possible.
IIRC, the total length of all detailed audio explanations exceed an hour and a half, picturesque ruins will really tempt you to photograph them from all possible perspectives, so reserving at least 2 hours just for the monastery itself (i.e. not including transport, possible coffee, lunch, etc.) sounds sensible. Interior of the monastery complex is also mostly meadowed, do not forget the possible morning dew, so wearing some light hiking shoes or similar sounds sensible as well. BTW, if all that historic spirituality is still not enough or you are more into other types of esoterics, a round trail around the monastery with some “energy spots” is provided.
A few more words about the location and directions: historically the Carthusians have always been a contemplative order, not loving (too much) contact with the outside world, hence they were carefully selecting as secluded places as possible. And this monastery was no exception. While bus service from Slovenske Konjice does seem to exist (provided by Nomago, the halt right at the entrance is called “St.Slemene”), private transport is more convenient. Officially you are suggested to leave the Ljubljana - Maribor highway at the Slovenske Konjice exit and then just follow the regular “Žička kartuzija” signposts via Žiče. Well, the last 8 kms from Žiče, partially routed right under a tall highway viaduct, are actually not that pleasant, the road is narrow and hardly allows meeting even cars from the opposite direction, not to imagine buses, vans, etc. If arriving from west, e.g. Ljubljana, Celje, etc., a nice and shorter alternative is available since the major road reconstruction a few years ago: you may exit the highway at the Dramlje exit and take the scenic and very curvy road via Straža na Gori across a pass that descends right to the monastery’s entrance. Additionally, another side and narrow road reaches the monastery from Frankolovo, convenient for visitors from Zreče and/or Rogla… A few parking lots seem to exist right at the “Gastuž” house but unofficially intended for employees or serving as bus halts. Visitors are expected to use a big gravel parking lot, very clearly marked by big signs a few meters before the monastery if arriving from Slovenske Konjice and Zreče. If arriving from other directions, be civilized enough to drive those additional few meters eastwards (towards Loče). Don’t worry, parking is still free of charge (as of 2024) and some nice views of the monastery open from the nearby meadow, ideally to check and adjust your camera’s settings.
And finally a few downsides. Aerial photos of the monastery would certainly be spectacular as well, unfortunately the staff have confirmed my observation based suspicions that no views are possible from surrounding hills as they are entirely covered by forests and there are no observation towers etc. as well (OTOH, tours to a view point at the church’s top are possible if booked at least a day in advance). So, professional photographers should consider bringing a drone. The area also looks quite pleasant for cycling, there are even a few unattended bike stands near the Gastuž, unfortunately there are no guarded ones for visitors with bikes, more interesting to thieves….
翻译:“Žiče Charterhouse” 或斯洛文尼亚语中的“Žička kartuzija”,德语中又名“Kartäuserkloster Seiz”,是一座前加尔都西会修道院(从 12 世纪中叶开始运营,直到 1782 年约瑟夫二世的“改革”),位于 Žičnica 山谷(又名施洗者圣约翰山谷,以修道院教堂的守护神圣约翰命名),位于 Slovenske Konjice 西南或 Žiče 村庄以西约 8 公里(不像名字所暗示的那样近)。如今,即使对历史和灵性不感兴趣的人,它的遗迹也非常美丽,即使是那些太穷而买不起每人 8 欧元(2024 年基本成人票)的人也可以拍出漂亮的 Instagram 照片。
第一个非常积极的惊喜是,截至 2024 年,这样一个顶级景点仍然没有被那些臭名昭著的“ATM”所侵扰(在斯洛文尼亚,人们普遍认为 ATM 是某个地方过度旅游的非常可靠的“证书”,以避免使用“榨汁机”词汇……)。顺便说一句,可以接受现金,但工作人员似乎更喜欢刷卡付款。
其次,与斯洛文尼亚许多更臭名昭著的旅游景点不同,游客显然被视为文明人,而不是暴徒(我坚信这是基于实际观察)。换句话说,您可以在“Gastuž”房子内购买门票,房子上也有一个清晰可见的“i”标志(顺便说一句,这个名字显然源自德语单词“Gasthaus”,据报道这是斯洛文尼亚仍在运营的最古老的旅馆),大约。距离实际入口 100 米,你猜怎么着,无需二维码或其他卡即可打开入口处的任何大门,也没有人工检票,完全基于荣誉制度。相反,你会收到一个语音导游,就像一个傻瓜手机(老读者可能还记得这些智能手机的前身),当你接近某个 POI 时,只需按下一个带有指示数字的按钮,就可以听取非常详细的解释。你猜怎么着,不收取押金等,据推测,所有游客都足够文明,可以归还语音导游。顺便说一句,售票处的女士们非常友好,很乐意回答即使是最“不寻常”的问题,如果可能的话,她们应该得到 6 颗星或更多。
如果我没记错的话,所有详细音频解释的总长度超过一个半小时,风景如画的废墟真的会诱使你从所有可能的角度拍摄它们,所以至少预留 2 个小时只用于修道院本身(即不包括交通、可能的咖啡、午餐等)听起来很合理。修道院建筑群内部也大部分是草地,不要忘记可能有晨露,所以穿轻便的登山鞋或类似的鞋子听起来也很明智。顺便说一句,如果所有这些历史灵性仍然不够,或者你更喜欢其他类型的神秘学,修道院周围有一条环形小径,上面有一些“能量点”。
关于位置和方向再说几句:从历史上看,加尔都西会一直是一个沉思的教团,不喜欢(太多)与外界接触,因此他们精心选择了尽可能僻静的地方。这座修道院也不例外。虽然从斯洛文尼亚科尼采出发的巴士服务似乎确实存在(由 Nomago 提供,入口处的停靠点称为“St.Slemene”),但私人交通更方便。官方建议你从斯洛文尼亚科尼采出口离开卢布尔雅那 - 马里博尔高速公路,然后沿着常规的“Žička kartuzija”路标穿过日切。然而,从日切出发的最后 8 公里,部分路段正好位于高高的高速公路高架桥下,实际上并不那么令人愉快,道路狭窄,甚至连对面来的汽车都难以通过,更不用说公共汽车、货车等了。如果从西部到达,例如卢布尔雅那、采列等,自几年前进行大规模道路重建以来,有一条更短、更不错的替代路线可供选择:你可以在德拉姆列出口离开高速公路,走风景优美、非常弯曲的道路,穿过一条山口,直达修道院的入口。此外,另一条小路从 Frankolovo 通往修道院,方便 Zreče 和/或 Rogla 的游客……“Gastuž”房子旁边似乎有几个停车场,但非正式地供员工使用或用作巴士站。如果从 Slovenske Konjice 和 Zreče 抵达,游客应使用一个大型碎石停车场,该停车场在修道院前几米处有非常清晰的大标志。如果从其他方向抵达,请文明地向东(朝 Loče)行驶几米。别担心,停车仍然免费(截至 2024 年),从附近的草地可以看到修道院的一些美景,非常适合检查和调整相机的设置。
最后是一些缺点。修道院的航拍照片肯定也会很壮观,不幸的是,工作人员证实了我的观察结果,即从周围的山丘看不到任何景色,因为这些山丘完全被森林覆盖,也没有观景塔等(另一方面,如果提前至少一天预订,可以参观教堂顶部的观景点)。因此,专业摄影师应该考虑带无人机。该地区看起来也非常适合骑自行车,Gastuž 附近甚至有几个无人看管的自行车停放处,不幸的是,没有为骑自行车的游客提供守卫的自行车停放处,这对小偷来说更有吸引力……